The project is a 10 Inch Diameter UFO/Flying Saucer.

Inside the UFO Capsul are 6 LED's in a 4 Inch Diameter Circle each about 1 1/2 inchs apart.

With the 2 AAA Batteries they Shine Bright but for how long I have NOT tested them to that length.

Honestly, it is NOT a TOY but more of an Adult Novelty item.

I already have an Electric Model, but now I need to make a Battery Model for a Coffee Table or a Office Desk or a Night Stand.

 

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Connect your circuit like this : Battery +....switch ..... Resistor..... LED..... Battery -.

Timescope

 

I took pictures and tried to attach them, however I could NOT.

What format are the pictures in and how big are the files?

This is a COST SENSITIVE project so I am looking for CHEAP PRODUCTION avenues with High Quality Output.

Now you've added entirely new dimensions.

What kind of production methods are you using and how many total units are you talking about?

You definitely need to look carefully at your specs. What you are doing right now is, at best, "a happening" in which you "design" a solution that happens to work tonight on your kitchen table with the specific parts you happen to have on hand. That's fine for inspiration and initial tinkering, but in the end you need a design that produces reliable and predictable performance that is going to result in happy customers that want to buy more of your adult novelties and not write them off as cheap pieces of crap that they vow never to waste money on again.

 

I agree with you about my Production Issues.

I will need 50 Units at least with the Electrical Guts/Components costing about $5.00 per unit.

 

I agree with you about my Production Issues.

I will need 50 Units at least with the Electrical Guts/Components costing about $5.00 per unit.

Does the "Electrical Guts" including anything more than six LEDs (and associated stuff like batteries, switch, resistors)?

 

Here are the Photos.

 

I am hoping to get the Battery Case, Switch, 6 LED's, Wiring and Resistors (GUTS) at around $5.00 per unit MAX. IF I can do Less then Great.

 

Good Night Everyone!

Thanks so Much for the Help!

I now know that I need RESISTORS and more Technical Advice on my Blueprint.

I will check in tomorrow.

 

Here are the Photos.

It's hard to be sure, but as near as I can tell from your first picture you have the batteries wired to the LEDs directly and then you are shutting the off by using the switch to short the battery. That's why it is burning up!

There are a number of ways to make the guts cheap.

I don't know how easy it is to find a place that still makes them, but you can get a printed circuit board made that everything mounts to and that is basically a phenolic or almost a cardboard like material. But maybe the FR4-like laminates are now cheaper than those. For a run of 50 units you could make the boards yourself very easily. You can then mount your LEDs, resistors, switch, and battery clips/holders directly to the PCB. No wires at all! You can even mount your alien to it! You should be able to do that for well under $5 BOM.

 

Yes, I do know what a PC Board is.

Please how may I go about getting the FR4 Laminates to make a board???

As you can see I have somewhat of a board with the Cardboard that I have however this was my 1st Prototype and I figured that a board would be better for mounting purposes.

So basically is it CORRECT to say that I need Resistors BEFORE the LED's to prevent the Battery from Shorting Out????

Since my UFO needs to maintain its SLEEKNESS, I want to try to stay with the 2 AAA Battery System since it is the Smallest Power Source that is Readily Available to the General Public. I looked into Button Batteries however this system was expensive and not as User Friendly for the General Public.

 

Based on the information provided, I'd suggest using perf board as your PCB. It is simply phenolic board with holes drilled into it, so you'd still have to run some wire and solder to the leads directly, but it will hold everything reasonably well and it's cheap. You can pick up a 6" x 17" board for $7.50 each plus shipping from here if you order ten or more. If you cut 4.375" (4 & 3/8") circles, you can get four circles per board, bringing the board cost per unit to under $2 - again, not factoring shipping.

I've put together two possible circuits. The top one uses either two AAA or two AA batteries in series. While the LEDs require 3V+, you still want to add a resistor to each to help protect the LEDs from over current draw. Not the best design, but it should work.

The bottom circuit uses a 9V battery and puts two LEDs in series. This reduces current draw and helps ensure more even lighting between the two LEDs in each pair. Can't do this with the AAA or AA batteries due to low voltage.

If you use brand name batteries, two AAA batteries will last about 5 hours, two AA will last about 13 hours, and one 9V will last about 7 hours. Cheaper brands will be less.

You'd have to confirm this, but I imagine a 9V battery snap plus maybe even a 9V holder will cost less than a double AAA holder. Something to keep in mind.

 

The AAA and AA batteries won't last nearly that long because you can't run them down to anywhere near the mormal cutoff voltage. Your LEDs will stop working after just 0.1V or so drop. Plus, the LEDs will dim noticeably very quickly. If you use three of them in series you can get most of the service life out of them plus have a much more steady light level over the life.

You want to look at using battery clips instead of a battery holder. A clip solders directly into the PCB and one end of the battery snaps into it. You need to clips per battery but they are dirt cheap.

You can get single-side copper clad FR-4 board in 12"x12" panels for ~$14 putting your per unit cost at only ~$1.50. That's just form the first page of Google results; I'm sure you can do better than that.

I wouldn't recommend a perfboard if t is something that the user will ever see. It smacks of slapdash construction.

 

Elec Mech and WBahn ------THANKS for all your HELP!

This UFO is really just a Really Cool Showpiece and is not expected to be on for more than 30 Minutes at a time.

Its like something Cool that you turn ON before bed and when you are asleep in 15 minutes your parents turn it OFF.

I am most concerned about Reliability and Keeping It Simple for the Consumer.

The 2 Saucers get Screwed together by 4 Screws and the components are on the inside with the Battery Pack on the OUTSIDE underneath.

The Consumer will only see the inside of the UFO if all 4 Screws are removed and it is taken apart. Other than that, I really don't care what the insides look like.

THANKS AGAIN!

 

ELEC MECH;

Excellent Diagram!

Thanks!