Li-on with 4.2V. Current capacity varies. But high AH will give u longer usage time.

I am pretty sure I can get this project working if u provide me with pics and all.

 

Hm, I checked a number of different sites and none of them have 4.2 V batteries. The closest I've seen is 4V.

 

A rechargeable Lithium battery cell has an average voltage of 3.6V or 3.7V because it is fully charged when it is 4.20V and dead when it is 3.0V or 3.2V. So it is called a 3.6V or 3.7V cell. If it is over-charged (too much current or too much voltage) then it could catch on fire.

 

Ok thanks for the tip; like I said I'm totally new to this stuff still. I went shopping around some local Radio Shacks today and managed to find some 3.7V li-ion batteries for the hefty price of... 7 cents. So I have those and I also found the PIR sensor. None of the stores in my area had the sound module so I'll have to order it online, but here are some pictures of the PIR sensor...

http://img683.imageshack.us/img683/3195/dsc01213r.jpg

http://img602.imageshack.us/img602/4235/dsc01218.jpg

http://img201.imageshack.us/img201/5108/dsc01215z.jpg

 

If you would prefer to get better sound for a similar price, check these guys out:

http://www.electronics123.com/

They sell the 20 sec module as well as a 50 sec USB device. I've hacked both devices, and the sound on the USB device is better if you change the speaker, and the software has an option to ignore multiple triggers after playback has started. The 20 sec module sounds like crap no matter what you do to it. If you really want to use the 20 sec device, remove the cover from the playback button to expose the contact traces and solder the trigger wires to the contacts. Run those wires to the terminal on the board I posted, and you're ready to go.

 

Ok cool, I ordered the 50 sec USB device. I only plan on having the sound be a single word and quality of the sound doesn't matter much so I'll probably leave the regular speaker on it. But I like being able to have the option of ignoring multiple triggers so that's why I went with that one. Was this the board you were talking about before?

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2104052#

Thanks again and I'm looking forward to seeing exactly how this works if you get a chance to post that PDF.

 

Yes, that's the board you'd use to build the circuit. Check the link I posted earlier for a neat drawing of the circuit and it's assembly. The parts you need are the perf board, one IRF510 MOSFET, one LM7805 regulator, a 4.7K resistor, and a battery snap. The PIR can be attached directly to the perf board, or you can use a 3-pin header. If you need a longer cable on the PIR, I recommend using 22 ga. 3-conductor servo cable. You'll find this at hobby and RC stores. BTW, the USB module has a small board attached to it that holds the button-cell batteries. You can remove it and power the circuit with the LM7805. The combined load of the PIR and the USB recorder is under 1A. Have fun and let me know if I can help.

 

Sorry . I shud have said 3.7V li-ons. Thanks guru.

So I believe U have the audio thingy tht u can use to play back.
Two Li-on's.
One PIR sensor.

Or rather u have ordered them, so I guess u won't be changing them to another units.

Once u acknowledge the above, I will draw up a schema according to their data specs.

{ed}
I seem to have missed the audio device. I have to see it's specs to see how it is triggered.

 

^ That's right. I have the PIR sensor and li-ion batteries. I ordered the sound module so I'm just waiting on that now. Here's the direct link to the one I bought...

http://www.electronics123.com/s.nl/it.A/id.2841/.f

It has quite a bit of info there and the data sheet.

 

Each of the two boards I mentioned in the above post use a small tactile button to trigger playback. For the USB board, simply cut off the button and attach the wires to the terminal block. For the 20 sec player, remove the cover of the play button that's mounted on the little PC board and solder the trigger wires to the exposed traces. Attach those wires to the terminal block on the PIR board. When the PIR fires, the board(s) will be triggered. Do keep in mind that the 20 sec player requires a dry trigger (no voltage), and the USB board has ~4VDC on the trigger wires.
I've used these players for years for sound-on-demand for Halloween props and various other effects.

 

The data on it is not enuf for me to tackle it.
I have to see the actual device to see the play button to tap into it.

U can use the on board batteries for the USB device or the Li-on. U have to do a little wiring. Committing the three coin cells and connecting it to a li-on will give u longer operating time

I can draw the diagram once u show me close up of the device. This is because the data show no schematic.

Post pictures of the audio thing once u rx it. I like to see the play switch. I got to know if the switch has a ground connection or a high side connection. By this I will know how to configure the PIR trigger transistor.

By the way, If u have the li-on, Keep 'em charged. U might need to buy a li-on charger off ebay, it's really cheap. And also try to find battery snap on's for the li-ons. A li-on battery holder

 

Alright, I got the sound module in the mail today. If anyone can give me some instructions or advice in the simplest way possible on how to use the sound module to play once after the PIR sensor is triggered, I'd appreciate it. This is my first real project of any kind so I'm really unfamiliar with just about everything. I just learned how to solder though so hopefully that helps. Here's some pics of the sound board...

http://img201.imageshack.us/img201/737/dsc01220l.jpg

http://img835.imageshack.us/img835/6395/dsc01221cz.jpg

 

Since nobody knows what the pushbutton switch on the sound module connects to, maybe you could use an opto-Jfet like an H11F1.

we would measure the module's circuit to find out if the switch connects to a high logic voltage or to a low logic voltage then use a simple transistor to do it from the PIR. Maybe the output of the PIR will activate the sound module without a transistor.

 

Hey Rob.. can u scale down ur pics to 800X600 and to 300 dpi. MY connection gives trouble trying to load ur pics.

Do u have a DMM ?

{ed}

See the pic, but first u need to test the module and tell us tht it works or not.

And give me close up of the key connection

 

It took me a little while, but the module does indeed work (I had to use software after connecting via USB to put the audio on it and my main PC was too new or something to run it). A simple press of the button now and my audio plays through its' speaker. And no, I don't have a DMM. But here are the re-sized pics along with a close up of the key connection.

http://img703.imageshack.us/g/dsc01220.jpg/

 

OooooooooooKay. So no DMM huh!!. what about a soldering iron and how well can u solder

 

I do have a soldering iron and a bunch of other little tools like wire cutters, strippers, solder, and some solid wire. I soldered once so far and I got the job done without burning the component (or myself!). I'm no expert by any means, but I got a basic idea of it now.

 

Ok..so now find a 5V relay with NO contacts. Get the smallest u can.
1 1N4148 diode.
1 BC 639 Transistor
1 4.7k 0.25W resistor
1 1k 0.25W resistor
small vero board.
some solder
some multistrand wires. 22 gauge or something...

lemme see what I can draw for ya ..........check back later

 

It would be interesting to know what the function of this project is.. If it is for a commercial venture then may be you should be paying for "real" help. If it is for personal use then I am happy to help but not knowing the end use makes it very difficult. I am not sure if you are capable of connecting a push button to a battery and buzzer..do you understand ohms law etc? A DMM cost about $3.00 from Harbor Freight and you should at least get this!!

 

Ok..so now find a 5V relay with NO contacts. Get the smallest u can.
1 1N4148 diode.
1 BC 639 Transistor
1 4.7k 0.25W resistor
1 1k 0.25W resistor
small vero board.
some solder
some multistrand wires. 22 gauge or something...

lemme see what I can draw for ya ..........check back later

What's the relay for? The only parts needed to make this work are:

IRF510 MOSFET - 1 each
Half of a Radio Shack dual mini-board
4.7K 1/4W resistor - 1 each
LM7805 regulator - 1 each
PIR sensor and cable
Two-pin terminal block - 1 each
9 volt battery snap - 1 each
Some 30 gauge hook-up wire
Solder

This is a way easy assembly. I've built a bunch of these PIR trigger boards. Please note that the PIR sensor is from a different source, but the behavior is the same as the Parallax PIR. You just cut off the Play button on the USB board and attach those wires to the T-block. Snap in a battery and you're good to go. Here's a pic of the circuit: