that is great news. Im sure having a 2-1 pulley to get the 3500 speed for tablesaw would be fine so.

I did notice on both sides of motor that there are little oil holes for oiling driveshaft. would wd40 be good?

thank you

ron

 

that is great news. Im sure having a 2-1 pulley to get the 3500 speed for tablesaw would be fine so.

I did notice on both sides of motor that there are little oil holes for oiling driveshaft. would wd40 be good?

thank you

ron

WD 40 is not a great lubricating oil. It is a water displacement and corrosion dissolving acidic formulation - it tends to evaporate (dry) quickly because it is very low molecular weight mineral oil. Use your wife's sewing machine oil, 3 in 1 oil or even some light motor oil.

 

Okay so it's a 4 pole washing machine motor so it more than likely does not need or likely ever had a starting capacitor.

Also given the 200/250 VAC rating on the side would imply that you are in Europe or some other country that uses the standard 220- 240 VAC 50 HZ power systems so your running speed will be around the 1450 RPM range.

Also being a washing machine motor with brass bushings I have serious doubts that it is much over 1/2 - 3/4 HP which to be honest won't cut much of anything working as a wood sawing motor. Especially if it's trying to power a blade with a 2:1 speed increase on top of it.

 

it wont go without capasator and has 8 coils
according to patratking its a 1750 motor

A 3450 rpm motor, will have 2 major coils 180° across from one another, and two lesser coils on 90's between them, also 180° apart, for a total of 4 coils...

A 1750 motor, will have 4 major coils, at 90° intervals around the stator, with 4 lesser start coils between them, also 90° apart.

 

it wont go without capasator and has 8 coils

No capacitor, No field rotation.
Max.

 

Tmctech has put me in doubt now about the rpm.i am hoping that patratking is correct in it being a 1750 motor

 

Not if you are in Ireland as your ID implies.
The freq will be 50Hz not 60Hz as in N.A. and if 4 pole will be 1450rpm.
Max.

 

so would that with a pulley 2-1 work as a table saw for cutting 3/4 inch (18mm) ply or mdf?

that is my main concern now. thx

 

You may be disappointed in the results, double the RPM is going to be half the torque.
Max.

 

would this be a good powerfull motor for my saw table?

http://www.mmengservices.co.uk/onli...0-75kw-1hp-single-phase-2-pole-3000rpm-motor/

 

My brother has a old radial arm saw that uses a 1 hp (750 watt) 3450 RPM motor to drive 10 inch blade and to be honest that thing is pretty useless unless a guy really has a lot of time to spend.

Personally I would just go out and buy a cheap hand held circular saw and be done with it. You will be time and money ahead plus it will actually cut wood when you use it.

 

My brother has a old radial arm saw that uses a 1 hp (750 watt) 3450 RPM motor to drive 10 inch blade and to be honest that thing is pretty useless unless a guy really has a lot of time to spend.

Sounds like it may be time to sharpen the blade

 

Sounds like it may be time to sharpen the blade

That might explain why the handheld circular saw works better than his table saw! Might also want to look at the width of the kerf. The 1hp motor may not be able to drive a dado blade but a thin kerf should be fine (don't rip with a cross-cut blade or a panelling blade).

 

Even with new blades it was not all that great for heavy cutting.

DO the math once.

One HP at 3450 RPM is only 1.5 ft/lbs of torque which on the tip of a 10 inch blade is at best 3.6 ft/lbs of torque.

Now take circular ssw that is 2 1/2 HP and runs a 7 inch blade at 4200 RPM like my circular saw is which gives it 3.12 ft/lbs of torque. Multiply that out with the 7 inch blade and it has something like 10.7 ft/lbs of torque to work with or nearly 3 times the cutting force.

 

decided to use this 1425 motor for my disc sander.

just wonder if its normal that motor housing gets a bit warm after a few minutes.
not sure should it remain cold.

secondly i have a bout a 1 mm play in shaft horizontal ( can pull it in and out 1 mm).

thank you all.

ron

 

At full rated load most standard duty motors are rated at a 40 C temp rise over ambient.

So if your ambient air temp is 25 C expect that the surface of the motor at full load could get up to around 65 C which by touch is well over burning hot!!!!

1 mm of axial motion play is pretty normal for a brass sleeved type motor.

 

ok . i wonder did i do damage when i took pulley of the shaft. the one thing i noticed is that she needs a little turn sometimes to get her going since i removed pulley. or is it just coincidence that the start capasator is on its way out. they gave me a 10uf. there is also a little rattle, so i took of fan to give all a good cleaning. we`ll see how she is tomorow when its all back together. i also dont see any bearings. at the housing where shaft turns seems to be a solid peace of metal and no bearing.thx

 

10 uF seems pretty small. I would have expected that if it needed a starting capacitor it would have been in the 50 - 100 uF range.

 

untill today she started fine. now it needs a helping hand lol

 

just uploaded a video with a strange noise. it seems to be coming from the back of the motor. I just like to mention that i had the whole shaft out to bang of the pulley. At the back on the shaft is also a black unit that has springs to slid up and down when motor is turning and when moter gets switched off( think its called a centrifugal switch)

that unit seems to have a bit of play as i can turn it a fraction left and right on the shaft. maybe this is wear over time?

Also like to mention that before i took it apart the motor used to start by it self with the start capacitor. wonder if the centrifugal switch is bad ,could this also be the reason for motor not starting without giving it a turn with the hand?


http://youtu.be/33QowBPL7PU rattle noise from back of motor

this next video shows the play in the centrifugal switch. http://youtu.be/U8Oo1IGyGHw

and this one shows that when i turn motor 180 degrees noise is less ( weird) http://youtu.be/J3VB7ukabrI


thank you


ron