Help with 8 program led light controller

Discussion in 'General Electronics Chat' started by kordobachi, Jun 10, 2012.

  1. kordobachi

    Thread Starter New Member

    Jun 10, 2012
    2
    0
    I need help with a couple of led xmas lights I bought which uses a 8 function mini controller. I opened it up and took a picture. I installed it just below the roof line and I attached a switch lower to the ground. I noticed that if left switch off for a long period of time the light revert to the original setting of combination (all sequences will be played in intervals) when I had set it to steady on. Since it is too high to reach the controller every time, is there a way to keep it steady on by uhmm I don't know maybe cutting a connection or jumping one? Any help would be great. Thanks.

    The 8 Functions
    1. Combination
    2. In Waves
    3. Steady On
    4. Slow Glow
    5. Chasing
    6. Slow FAde
    7. Twinkle
    8. Steady On

    I just want to bypass the controller altogether
     
  2. KJ6EAD

    Senior Member

    Apr 30, 2011
    1,425
    363
    There's an electrolytic capacitor on the main PCB right next to the COB hybrid PCB. Try putting a much larger value, 10X or so, in it's place (same or higher voltage rating).
     
  3. BMorse

    Senior Member

    Sep 26, 2009
    2,675
    234
    The circuit apparently uses a type of volatile memory to keep the users selected setting, but it needs to stay powered in order to keep the setting, as soon as you disconnect it from power, it will loose its setting...... you can try the capacitor as suggested by KJ6EAD, but it may still not hold the memory if you have it unplugged all day.....
     
  4. ErnieM

    AAC Fanatic!

    Apr 24, 2011
    7,394
    1,607
    How long is long? Hours? Days? Weeks? Years?

    As mentioned, it's internal capacitor is discharging allowing it to "forget" the settings you programmed in the last time you climbed onto the roof. It may be possible to modify the unit.

    What I would suggest is if you have a DC voltmeter measure the voltage across the capacitor (cylinder with 2 leads sticking out the bottom) after you turn this thing on then off (so it is safe): then knowing that voltage pick a battery just higher then that, add a series diode and it just may work.

    (If need be I'll post a picture of what I mean there.)

    But when the battery dies you'll still have to climb up again to change the battery and reprogram.
     
  5. kordobachi

    Thread Starter New Member

    Jun 10, 2012
    2
    0
    Thanks for the info guys. I checked out the capacitor and it is 4.7 mfd 25v. so should I change it to 47mfd 25v or 4.7nfd 25v?


    @ ErnieM - Yup i think adding a battery would be great. Please do post the picture. Thanks.


    As far as I know the led bulbs are 220v so I am thinking of just removing the controller altogether since I like them stuck on steady-on anyway just don't know which are the important components I need to extract from the controller and maybe solder it straight to the wiring.....


    Any ideas would be appreciated.

    Thanks Guys
     
  6. ErnieM

    AAC Fanatic!

    Apr 24, 2011
    7,394
    1,607
    No LED in the world is 220V, at most a LED needs 3 or 4 volts to light. However, they may have enough LEDs in series to make it OK to just plow 220V into a string of lights.

    Or not. And blowing up your nice lights is probably not desirable.

    If you have a meter make the measurement I said: do it carefully as 220V can kill.

    Maybe we can figure out where to put a wire to keep it always on... can you read anything off the two transistors (black 3 leaded parts) so we can get the part number? If they are transistors we may be able to guess an always on fix.
     
  7. tapac333

    New Member

    Aug 25, 2013
    8
    0
  8. omargpg

    New Member

    Apr 14, 2015
    2
    0
  9. dosgringos

    New Member

    Nov 10, 2015
    7
    0
    Just looked at solution in the post above and not sure it would help me. I have a defective controller (same as OP) that blinks the leds even when set to Steady On. No smooth fading either, just a lot blinking and all leds going out for several seconds before blinking again. I have a video, but cannot upload it here.

    Anyhow, all I want is steady on. I was wondering if a replacement led driver would do the trick, except that I don't know how many watts my 100 led string is using. Info is all over the place on eBay and AliExpress. If anyone knows or has a better idea, let me know.Thanks.
     
  10. Brevor

    Active Member

    Apr 9, 2011
    279
    54
    If your controller is shown in the solution link, doing the modification will fix your problem.
     
    dosgringos likes this.
  11. ian field

    Distinguished Member

    Oct 27, 2012
    4,415
    784
    What part numbers on the 2 TO92 components?

    The last one I pulled apart had strings of filament bulbs and 4x TO92 triacs on the board. If that's what they are - just take them out and link the MT1 and MT2 pads together for continuous on.
     
  12. dosgringos

    New Member

    Nov 10, 2015
    7
    0
    So I opened the box again to get a better look at the circuit. Kind of strange that it appears to have a TRIAC that was unsoldered (not that it was connected to any outgoing wire).

    Looks like my PCB is a variation of examples 2 and 3 of the solution link. I have highlighted where I think I need to solder a tinned wire. Just would like someone to confirm I am on the right track.

    pcb2.jpg pcb.jpg
     
  13. ian field

    Distinguished Member

    Oct 27, 2012
    4,415
    784
    Remove the triacs and link 2 of each 3 pads furthest away from the sub-board with the blob on it - that is no connection to the tracks for the sub board.

    One track is common to all 3 (4) triacs, link that to the pads with wires that disappear into the hot melt glue.
     
    dosgringos likes this.
  14. dosgringos

    New Member

    Nov 10, 2015
    7
    0
    Thank you Ian. Just to make sure I've got this right...once I remove the triacs, solder these three like so :
    pcbx.jpg
     
  15. ian field

    Distinguished Member

    Oct 27, 2012
    4,415
    784
    Yes - but I'd remove the triacs.
     
    dosgringos likes this.
  16. dosgringos

    New Member

    Nov 10, 2015
    7
    0
    Thank you. Worked perfectly.
     
  17. Max M4X WW

    New Member

    Dec 7, 2015
    1
    0
    Hi,

    Can anyone help me to bypass my controller?

    Thanks

    IMG_20151207_151633.jpg IMG_20151207_151651.jpg
     
  18. dl324

    Distinguished Member

    Mar 30, 2015
    3,250
    626
    Welcome to AAC! The first thing you need to learn is to not hijack threads.
    And state your requirements more clearly. What does do you mean by bypass?

    The previous posters couldn't be bothered with posting schematics. But posting schematics makes it easier for others to provide assistance...
     
  19. lonepenguinx2

    New Member

    Dec 8, 2015
    3
    0
    Hey all,

    I'm curious if anyone was able to find a soldering solution the OP was asking about for their board as I have the same one (It looks like dosgringos has a slightly different controller).

    I want to bypass the 8 functions and keep the lights on all the time.

    I'll post pictures for reference:
    IMG_0333.JPG IMG_0334.JPG

    Thanks in advance.
     
  20. RRITESH KAKKAR

    Senior Member

    Jun 29, 2010
    2,831
    89
    Its Chinese Board with COB chip.
    I dont like to work on Chinese board because make in india.
    i have buyed and seen here many times.
     
Loading...