Help with 1st time Soldering

Discussion in 'General Electronics Chat' started by RP3X, Jan 30, 2013.

  1. RP3X

    Thread Starter New Member

    Jan 30, 2013
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    Hi this is my 1st time here, I have just had my LG monitor stop working with a flashing blue light, and decided to check the power supply and noticed 2 bulging Bad Caps.

    I checked a few vids on youtube on how about going to remove them but did it perhaps wrong and too fast with my soldering gun !

    I heated up my solder gun and gently rocked the caps till they came off but then noticed 2 issues.

    1) I got some of the solder residue on another track/lane, will this cause issue?

    2) I am not sure if the + side of one of the caps was connected by the solder blob to the top track/lane, is this important or does not matter ?

    I have uploaded a picture below with both points circled in Red, the ? one is where I think the solder blob was connected to the top track I think.

    http://img607.imageshack.us/img607/6341/95694356.jpg


    Again am very new and unsure, I will get replacement Caps in 1-2 days time and will solder them on and find out if its worked I guess. Thanks.
     
  2. kubeek

    AAC Fanatic!

    Sep 20, 2005
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    The dark green patch is the whole copper trace, so no problem with bits of solder around the joint, unless it connects the two thick green traces.
    You need to put the + terminal where it belongs, otherwise the caps will blow. On the left side of the picture between the traces is a tiny symbol of a capacitor with a + marking, so the plus side of the new caps goes to the upper trace.
     
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  3. RP3X

    Thread Starter New Member

    Jan 30, 2013
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    Hi thanks for the quick reply, its nice to know bits of solder does not matter.

    I will place the cap in the right way, but my only concern is on the dark green trace, I think the original solder blob holding the cap it looked like the blob was connected to those silver lane thingies in-between the dark green trace?

    Was this important, I have no idea if those silver lanes on the dark green trace are important or not ?
     
  4. Audioguru

    New Member

    Dec 20, 2007
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    You need to learn how high to drip the solder from the soldering GUN to the solder joint.

    We use a soldering iron, not a soldering gun that gets too hot.
    I can't remember what a soldering gun was used for. I had one about 53 years ago.
    It got WAY TOO HOT to solder electronic parts. I think I used mine to solder water pipes together.

    Then I got a Weller temperature-controlled soldering iron. It is about 48 years old and still solders electronic parts perfectly. It is still made and sold today.
     
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  5. #12

    Expert

    Nov 30, 2010
    16,302
    6,812
    The soldering gun is for attaching ground wires to galvanized sheet metal or soldering a drain pan for a refrigerator so it doesn't leak.
     
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  6. BillB3857

    Senior Member

    Feb 28, 2009
    2,400
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    You may want to use some solder wick (stranded wire works in a pinch) and remove the excess solder from the pads the caps were soldered into. If using stranded wire, a little flux will help the process.
     
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  7. thatoneguy

    AAC Fanatic!

    Feb 19, 2009
    6,357
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    With new caps, I'd suggest getting a basic 25W Soldering Iron (pencil type) with a fine tip.

    They don't cost very much.

    If you overheat the new capacitors while installing them, which is very likely given that the soldering gun temperature can be double or more the rated soldering temp, your fix may not fix the issue, or it will not last as long as the original caps did.

    Make sure your are using Rosin Core solder, and NOT Acid Core solder (which is typically used for pipes, etc).
     
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  8. RP3X

    Thread Starter New Member

    Jan 30, 2013
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    Hi thanks for all the advice sorry I dont have a solder gun I believe its a solder iron with almost a flat head tip.

    I was thinking of trying some stranded wire to collect some of that solder... good idea may give it a go. My replacement caps turned up in the post so ill find out if I save £150 pounds or not ;)
     
  9. RP3X

    Thread Starter New Member

    Jan 30, 2013
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    Just to let you guys know thank you very much for all the help and advice, I tried using the solder iron tip to heat up the capacitor wire and was hoping it would melt the solder and it would form a perfect round blob around the wire, but it didn't perhaps cos its like a screw driver head, either way I touched it directly to the solder and it made 4 nice blobs around the end of the caps wires.

    Perhaps with a sharper solder iron tip it would work better, anyhow the caps are holding very well and my 24" TFT is alive and has been saved for 3 pounds worth of Caps !

    Id Kiss the solder iron if it wasn't too hot ;)
     
  10. kubeek

    AAC Fanatic!

    Sep 20, 2005
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    You maybe should have heated the joints for longer, these large tracks have lots of thermal capacity and need to be heated for long to get a proper joint.
     
  11. Audioguru

    New Member

    Dec 20, 2007
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    The soldering iron tip should be clean and should be tinned.
    The solder should have a rosin core.

    My temperature-controlled soldering iron automatically goes to full blast when I solder something big until its tip reaches the correct temperature in a couple of seconds then it holds that temperature.
     
  12. RP3X

    Thread Starter New Member

    Jan 30, 2013
    5
    0
    Next time :D
     
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