I could have sworn there was a good drawing of this circuit attached yesterday.
Wrong thread? Senior moment?

I had fortgotten http://forum.allaboutcircuits.com/threads/help-wiring-220-bandsaw-2hots-ground-no-white.105457/
Max,

 

The OP started a second thread. You're thinking of this one: http://forum.allaboutcircuits.com/threads/help-wiring-220-bandsaw-2hots-ground-no-white.105457/#post-801907

The colors on both sides are unusual and/or misleading. The building wiring has a white where you'd like to have a green ground - no telling if the white is connected as ground, connected as neutral (not much difference here in most panels,) or left disconnected. The saw wiring uses white where you'd expect to have red for one of the hot legs, a fairly common (if rather irksome) usage of three conductor cord in machines that don't require a neutral.

 

That was 6 days ago. No wonder I misplaced the thread.

Now I need to figure out how I misplaced 6 days!

Really. I checked on my neighbor today at the usual time, after she gets home from church. Then I figured out this is Monday.

I remember. I pulled a muscle and had to take anti-spasm pills for 3 days. Then I had a drug hangover for 2 days. Getting old sucks.

 

This quote from the very first post in this thread may explain it all,
" My problem is a singed/damaged part of the 220-line.
When making the 220-wall outlet, re-purposing an old kitchen oven line I had in my crawlspace,
I had noticed that the metal cladding is singed-thru at a point in the run between my main panel and my outlet."

Depending on how old the house or oven wiring is. Many oven wiring circuits in past times used BX cable, which is what this sounds like to me, "the metal cladding." Since it was for an oven, it had both 110V legs in the wiring, white was truly a neutral, the metal BX shield was the ground. The white/neutral was needed for a oven light and/or clock. Many of the houses I have remodeled over the years are wired this way.

Now if the OP is using the same color code for his outlet as the wires in the saws cord, he's only putting 110V to the saw. He also said in post #1, "My bandsaw runs. It may be running below full bore." With all his problems I agree that he should get an electrician to look at this. But think the problem is in the outlet wiring not with the saw.

 

Have you tried the saw on a known good power outlet (one of your neighbours's perhaps )?

 

Obviously since you are getting a tingle the saw frame and the common/earth ground on it is not connected to the common/earth grounds at the power panel. Plain and simple. Where that break in the line is is where your problem is.

If it was me I would start at the fuse/breaker panel and go outward from there making sure that all the wires and their perspective colors and voltages are well known.

If the supply end has good common and ground connections the next step is to confirm that the other end is the same.
Just guessing from past personal experiences with working on old house wiring is that someplace between the source and the end of the power supply cable there could be one or more splices of which there could be a bad or simply no common or ground connections attached from one line set to the other.

Things I would physically check and confirm is is first that the power cord from the saw does in fact have a solid connection from its frame to its common/ground leads.
Second would be to check that the supply wiring from the power panel to the outlet does in fact have continuity from one end to the other which that is easy to do if you use a extension cored and a battery charger as a high current low voltage continuity tester.

To do that simply connect one end of the extension cord to the common/earth ground point in the power panel and try shorting the battery charger through the power outlets common/earth ground leads creating a circuit through extension cored coming back though the supply lines common/ground conductors.
If you can get a spark and a few amps of current flowing you have a solid connection. If not they you know where to look. If you can do the same test with the saw power cord and get a spark you know the saw is properly connected to the cord. If not then thats where your problem is.

The reason I recomend the battery charger continuity test method is because it will put a multi amp current through the system which will easily show whether or not their is a good path for the current to flow through the common/ground circuit or not that the small milliamp continuity test from a multimeter may show as being good even though its not.

 

as an after thought. Once upon a time I installed a 230 VAC outlet for a clothes dryer and the power cord that came with the new dryer was defective.
The customer was sure I was cheating him.