Right I mean, does it make any difference to have the neutral going to the relay like i wired it opposed to the hot going to the relay, which is what you suggested?

What I took from what you said is, the way I have it wired, if you stick a fork in the small hole you will get shocked because I have the hot going to the outlet. Vs if I had he hot to the relay, you could put a fork in the outlet and not get shocked.

 

Right I mean, does it make any difference to have the neutral going to the relay like i wired it opposed to the hot going to the relay, which is what you suggested?

What I took from what you said is, the way I have it wired, if you stick a fork in the small hole you will get shocked because I have the hot going to the outlet. Vs if I had he hot to the relay, you could put a fork in the outlet and not get shocked.

Right, Right.
And if you install it and try to sell your house the inspector will make you fix it.

 

Right, Right.
And if you install it and try to sell your house the inspector will make you fix it.

I know you said it was correct, or at least it would work, but just to double check, did i choose the right slots for the relay? i posted the diagram and each relay has 3 slots, "A" "B" "C" i put the neutral in "A" and "B" and nothing into "C"

you've been extremely awesome and patient with me ronv thank you so much for your time!!

 

I know you said it was correct, or at least it would work, but just to double check, did i choose the right slots for the relay? i posted the diagram and each relay has 3 slots, "A" "B" "C" i put the neutral in "A" and "B" and nothing into "C"

you've been extremely awesome and patient with me ronv thank you so much for your time!!

I'm not sure. The schematic shows 1, 2, 3. and you would use 1 and 2.
Do you have a different picture?

 

In this picture they show it wired like you suggested. (it was actually a really good page i wish i would of found it earlier) in the comments one guys proposes a question that sounds like what i was asking was ok to do, switch the hot into the relay for neutral into the relay. Hope one of these is what you meant by different picture?

 

 

Yes, I think so. It also matches this one:

Do you have an ohm meter. We can check.

 

Not personally, I would need to take it to my friends to use meters. would it make any difference between going from the wall directly into slot 2 vs going directly into slot 1? or is it the same thing so long as you use those 2 per circuit? just curious.

 

Not personally, I would need to take it to my friends to use meters. would it make any difference between going from the wall directly into slot 2 vs going directly into slot 1? or is it the same thing so long as you use those 2 per circuit? just curious.

Same either way.
You should get one. It doesn't need to be expensive. $40 gets a real nice one, Harbor Freight will give you one.

 

Same either way.
You should get one. It doesn't need to be expensive. $40 gets a real nice one, Harbor Freight will give you one.

i think that wraps up the wiring portion of this project then. i really do appreciate all the help you have given me ronv.

now im starting my uphill battle with figuring out the software side, which of the 100 languages to use (most likely going to chose python 3.0 because pythons are my favorite animal and i have to choose one) then whos code do I copy that works best with my equipment/ wants/needs/desires,

i feel like i am entering the wild wild west of computing

 

i think that wraps up the wiring portion of this project then. i really do appreciate all the help you have given me ronv.

now im starting my uphill battle with figuring out the software side, which of the 100 languages to use (most likely going to chose python 3.0 because pythons are my favorite animal and i have to choose one) then whos code do I copy that works best with my equipment/ wants/needs/desires,

i feel like i am entering the wild wild west of computing

I'm no help there.
There may have been easier micros, but I think your code will be pretty easy. Read the sensor and decide what to do. Easy. Right?
Good luck!

 

Hey @ronv its me again, was hoping you could help me out once more, if you would ever be so kind :-D


Here are a couple pictures below of a surge protector that wont "light on" data sheet part 2




based off the current thread, any reason why you think this is happening and or how to fix it? maybe 5v power from relay going down neutral making enough current to trip the varistor?

 

Hey @ronv its me again, was hoping you could help me out once more, if you would ever be so kind :-D


Here are a couple pictures below of a surge protector that wont "light on" data sheet part 2

View attachment 107618 View attachment 107619 View attachment 107620


based off the current thread, any reason why you think this is happening and or how to fix it? maybe 5v power from relay going down neutral making enough current to trip the varistor?

I think that is a ground fault detector. If so it protects from current going from the appliance you plug into it and earth ground. If it trips with nothing plugged in it has gone bad. If it trips when you plug something into it, it may mean what you are plugging in is bad and dangerous.

 

hmm, ive tripled checked all my wiring and datasheets. i don't understand whats wrong... Can we test the "AUTO-RESET GROUND FAULT CIRCUIT INTERRUPTER PLUG" some how to see if its the culprit maybe? would the ohm meter you mentioned earlier or something similar could work to test it somehow?

 

this is the only info I found on it tripping was " Trip Level: 5 ± 1 mA" but i don't really know what that means. when I googled 5+1 mA all i got was a band of beat boxing Mexicans doing reggae, was not good, don't recommend it.

ALSO, maybe something to consider, the light never came on at any point in time that i saw. it was also given to me from someones garage as "new-unused" so that is a variable

 

this is the only info I found on it tripping was " Trip Level: 5 ± 1 mA" but i don't really know what that means. when I googled 5+1 mA all i got was a band of beat boxing Mexicans doing reggae, was not good, don't recommend it.

ALSO, maybe something to consider, the light never came on at any point in time that i saw. it was also given to me from someones garage as "new-unused" so that is a variable

I think I would buy a new one. It is to dangerous to ignore it.

 

I called leviton (they make of the fault detector). I'm going to butcher what they said but basically that you can not split the neutral like I did, not just because it makes it a live outlet which is against safety code and is deadly, but because the ground fault wont allow "power on" with a broken neutral.

 

The same current that flows through the neutral HAS to flow through the HOT.

The technology used is existentially the neutral and hot wound in different directions in a transformer.

GFCI's will pick if split Neutrals. They "don't care" if a ground is connected.

The greenhouse should be supplied with a GFCI outlets or a breaker.

5 mA is a typical trip point.

 

To test all you need is a resistor R<= 120/6e-3 and P>=(120^2)/R and connect it from hot to ground. e.g. ~20K, 1W. That should trip it.

Unconnected, the GFCI should not trip. e.g. ~20K, 1W