HELP ! fishfeeder circuit !! 50 pounds if you can complete

Discussion in 'The Projects Forum' started by Khalid.ak, Mar 25, 2015.

  1. Khalid.ak

    Thread Starter New Member

    Mar 25, 2015
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    Good morning,

    I am current building a fish feeder for a school product, and am unable to make it function, I have attached by current bread board, please give any points of information
    If anyone wants to build this for 50 pounds please contact me
    regards,

    Khalid
     
    Last edited: Mar 25, 2015
  2. Khalid.ak

    Thread Starter New Member

    Mar 25, 2015
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    this is my circuit
     
  3. Alec_t

    AAC Fanatic!

    Sep 17, 2013
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    1,105
    Welcome to AAC!
    If you want practical help with the build, it would be useful to know which country you are in. We also need a lot more detail of the project.
    Edit: Our posts crossed. The schematic provides the detail.
    You might want to add a snubber across the motor.
    When you say 'doesn't function', what section isn't working? Is the 4060 operation ok? Is the 555 working correctly when triggered? Does the relay pull in?
     
    Last edited: Mar 25, 2015
  4. Khalid.ak

    Thread Starter New Member

    Mar 25, 2015
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    I live in the UAE
    http://www.edutek.ltd.uk/Circuit_Pages/Fish_Feeder.html
    This is the link o the circuit and all information about it
     
  5. Kermit2

    AAC Fanatic!

    Feb 5, 2010
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    a nice link describing how the circuit functions

    we need you to tell us, what portion of that circuit is not working for you.
     
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  6. Khalid.ak

    Thread Starter New Member

    Mar 25, 2015
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    t
    the portion of the circuit that is not working is the 4060 when connected to the monostable, this is because once connected LED1 should flash to indicate counting, however this is not happening
     
  7. MCU88

    Member

    Mar 12, 2015
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    I don't think anyone who has even just a tiny bit of respect for academia is going to build this for you for 50 (or any sum) -- of pounds, because it is your school assignment. I never paid anyone any money to do my assignments when I studied. Perhaps I should have though and got myself better marks, well actually no because I would only be fooling myself!
     
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  8. Kermit2

    AAC Fanatic!

    Feb 5, 2010
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    use your meter and check voltage there. you should have six volts there according to the schematic.
     
  9. AnalogKid

    Distinguished Member

    Aug 1, 2013
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    First of all, give us the pin numbers you are using for R, X0, X1, and the clock input so we can see if the schematic is correct. Second, move the R3 connection to the 4060 from X1 to pin 7. The three pins associated with the oscillator are not normal CMOS inputs and outputs, and don't like extraneous circuits attached. The LED won't blink as often, but now if it doesn't blink you know where to look. It should blink at a constant rate no matter what the other connections to the 4060 are as long as the reset input is low.

    ak
     
  10. Khalid.ak

    Thread Starter New Member

    Mar 25, 2015
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    I built a 4060 astable separately and the monostable, and i have connected them together and they now work, however the 4060 only counts when the monostable is connected to out put 12 and no other outputs, any points of information?
     
  11. Khalid.ak

    Thread Starter New Member

    Mar 25, 2015
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    Pin numbers i am using for 4060:
    R=12
    XO=9
    X1= 10
    clock=11
     
  12. Dodgydave

    AAC Fanatic!

    Jun 22, 2012
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    The capacitor on the 4060 isn't connected,so its no oscillations ...
     
  13. Khalid.ak

    Thread Starter New Member

    Mar 25, 2015
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    Thank you very much, however when i was building the 4060 astable, it did not function when the capacitor was connected, however it did did function when the capacitor wasn't connected
     
  14. Dodgydave

    AAC Fanatic!

    Jun 22, 2012
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    its not connected to the correct pins, also use a non polarized cap.
    I've used hundreds of these chips, never had any problems with mine....
     
  15. Khalid.ak

    Thread Starter New Member

    Mar 25, 2015
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    yes, the capacitor was previously connected to pin 9 on the 4060 astable, however i took it out, furthermore the capacitor on the 4060 is only there to smooth
     
  16. Dodgydave

    AAC Fanatic!

    Jun 22, 2012
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    you clearly dont understand me, You have no oscillator capacitor on pin 9 and the junction with the 1 Meg, and the reset pin 12, isnt connected, therefore It Wont Oscillate...
     
    Last edited: Mar 25, 2015
  17. Retiredguy

    Member

    Feb 24, 2007
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    First of all, start by building just the oscillator portion of your circuit,(R1,C1, and R2) on the 4060, leave out VR1 at this point. So you should have R1 from pin 11 to a junction point, C1 from pin 9 to this same junction point, and finally R2 from pin 10 to the same junction point, then power up the chip. To see if the chip and oscillator is working properly, place your LED and resistor from pin 7 of the chip to ground and it should flash at a rate of about once every 8 seconds, on for eight then off for eight. Once you have the oscillator working properly, then add VR1,LED1, R4,Q1,and R3,and get that part of the circuit working( the LED should flash at a rate of about twice a second) once you get that portion of the circuit working, the rest should be easy
     
  18. RichardO

    Well-Known Member

    May 4, 2013
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    Schematic diagrams should _always_ show all of the pins on an IC. In your circuit, the Reset pin is not shown. This is very bad since leaving it unconnected will make the operation of the circuit erratic -- or worse the chip could be damaged by static electricity.

    Another good habit is to show both the pin numbers and the name of the pin for every pin on the IC including the power pins (see below).

    How I learned to show all of the pins on a schematic...
    I was repairing a broken circuit board that used a very expensive digital to analog converter. (The D/A was a $200 module in the 1970's!) The D/A was not working and had already been replaced by someone in a previous attempt to fix the problem. So, the symptom was that the D/A did not work and neither did the replacement. So, apparently, the problem was not the D/A. When I started to do the trouble shooting, I went to check if the D/A was getting proper power. This was hard to do because the power pins had not been shown on the schematic. After looking up the complete pinpout on the data sheet I was able to verify that there was a broken trace on the PCB preventing power from getting to the D/A.

    So, a good $200 part had been replaced and destroyed because of the lack of a couple of lines showing the power connections on the schematic. In all fairness, the person that replaced the good D/A probably did this at the customer's site and did not have access to the data sheet showing the information missing from his schematic.
     
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