help! beginner's desoldering error- is this ruined?

Thread Starter

nickboyroy

Joined Apr 26, 2014
8
Hi,

I've just learnt a lesson the hard way while trying to remove a voice chip from my Juno 106. I couldn't remove it so gave up. I then realised I may have damaged the pads. What was I thinking!

Please could someone take a look at the mess and tell me if it's repairable with a new socket?

The board still works as before. The chip is dead like before however this is not too important. It's whether a new one could be placed in the board and the old one removed.

Thank you for your time! The pictures were the best I could get last night but I'll try and get some better ones.

Cheers

Nick
 

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Thread Starter

nickboyroy

Joined Apr 26, 2014
8
Hi thank you for your reply. Are you saying clean it and repost pictures? I have white spirit. Can I clean it with that?

I've uploaded another picture. But without cleaning.
 

MaxHeadRoom

Joined Jul 18, 2013
28,619
If the board had conformal coating of any kind, this needs to be removed with a conformal solvent to be able to work on it without damage.
Max.
 

Thread Starter

nickboyroy

Joined Apr 26, 2014
8
i don' think it had a coating - the chip removal is a commonly done with a desoldering gun or brade i've been told.

here are some better pictures.

I'm hoping it can be removed - the chip - and a socket added .

it's an expensive mistake if not!
 

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atferrari

Joined Jan 6, 2004
4,764
Maybe the chip is soldered on both sides. Could you show the other side?

Daylight, cloudy day, take many pictures and select the best.
 

Thread Starter

nickboyroy

Joined Apr 26, 2014
8
Hi,

I've uploaded some pictures, it's really difficult to photo due to its positioning on the board.

So i've added a picture of a different chip with the identical soldering.

All components appear to have pads on the other side, with solder.

Does this mean i've dodged a bullet and can send it off to a professional? I hope so! I'm leaving soldering circuit boards alone for a long time now i think!!!

thanks for your help on this by the way!

Nick
 

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ericgibbs

Joined Jan 29, 2010
18,766
hi nick,

Did you try to de-solder and remove the IC in one piece.?

If the IC is know to be totally useless, the best way is to snip of the legs of the IC one by one. Leave enough cropped pin lead to enable gripping with a pair of fine pliers.

Then desolder each cropped pin and pull out the pins as you go.

If you dont have desolder gun or wick , use the pointed end of sharpened match stick to clear the holes of solder.
 

Thread Starter

nickboyroy

Joined Apr 26, 2014
8
Hi,

I've found someone who will service the board so i'm just going to leave anymore DIY!

I'm basically asking if i've ruined the board?

Will a professional still be able to remove the chip - doesn't matter if it's broken - replace a new one in the holes i've shown, or is the board broken beyond repair now??

Many thanks,

Nick
 

Thread Starter

nickboyroy

Joined Apr 26, 2014
8
Hi,

I don' think my last reply posted - sorry if this has -

I'm basically just asking if the board will still work - I will send it to a professional now to remove the chip and solder -

I'm just asking if my attempts have broken it? The board still works in the Synth

I'm just asking if who ever repairs it will be able to put a new chip in it? and it still work??

thanks again for your help,

Nick
 

PackratKing

Joined Jul 13, 2008
847
Checking in late as usual :D

The chip, appears to have been mounted in plated through-holes, which are darn hard to damage... and do not appear to be in bad shape... RE: the small pic in # 6 ...

If one or two are damaged, once the new chip is mounted on the good holes, it is possible to run short insulated jumpers to the next viable part of the trace downstream...

Future reference... as ericgibbs suggested in # 10 it is best to clip the dead chip out, and deal with the pins separately afterwards...
 

t06afre

Joined May 11, 2009
5,934
Checking in late as usual :D

The chip, appears to have been mounted in plated through-holes, which are darn hard to damage... and do not appear to be in bad shape... RE: the small pic in # 6 ...

If one or two are damaged, once the new chip is mounted on the good holes, it is possible to run short insulated jumpers to the next viable part of the trace downstream...

Future reference... as ericgibbs suggested in # 10 it is best to clip the dead chip out, and deal with the pins separately afterwards...
That is correct. But in my experience the tracks may easy be damaged, kind of worn off at the point they connect with with pad. After rough de-soldering. However in this case this can easy be fixed by using wire straps. Soldering them pad to pad.
As a note to the OP. White spirit is a petroleum product. It is much better to use a alcohol based cleaning liquid. Brush gently with an old toothbrush
 

THE_RB

Joined Feb 11, 2008
5,438
It should be fully repairable, I've fixed worse.

It is a simple two-sided PCB with large simple tracks. Even the pins where the pad has been ripped free can be patched with some whisker wires to the nearby track.

A good pro should be able to do that without too many problems. :)
 

ian field

Joined Oct 27, 2012
6,536
Hi thank you for your reply. Are you saying clean it and repost pictures? I have white spirit. Can I clean it with that?

I've uploaded another picture. But without cleaning.
I use cellulose thinners for car paint spray - but beware, its highly flammable!

It can also damage some components.

Examine each hole with a missing pad - did it have a track going to it?

Usually you can scrape the solder resist varnish and tin the track, solder a thin strand (stripped from flex) of wire to the track and feed it through the hole, if there's a track on the other side that went to that hole, solder it to that - otherwise trim it so it can't short anything.

If its a multilayer board and the damaged vias connect to sandwitched layers - you could be screwed!
 

ian field

Joined Oct 27, 2012
6,536
Eric has it nailed.

But, sometimes to remove a chip, I add solder, but don't let it cool before wicking or sucking it out.
The way I was taught to remove scrap chips while working in the industry, is to snip/shear the pins off at the chip header - the pins are *MUCH* easier to remove one at a time.
 
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