hi i am new here .
here is what i like to know .
i did buy the grizzly grinder showing on the picture .
i did not need the belt sander .i will use the end of the motor shaft as a buffing tool .
now is what i like to do .is to use a on/off/on switch to reverse the disc only ..i be using it the drind my knives blades .am a knives maker but i had to sell all my knives making tools .but i still have a few kives handles to do .
what as of now i disconnected the capacitor .the when i turn the grinder on i gave a slap the disc the way i like it to turn .left or right turn .
it work ok but it is really slow to get to full speed .
so look at the wirering diagram and let me know please .
thank you

 

sorry .the pictures are really big .

 

Based on your drawing, it would be dangerous to speculate on what wire goes where. Please double check it. You seem to have three wires labeled black. One seems to be labeled both green and black.

Recheck the original wiring and be sure you have it correctly. Then look at about the middle of this page (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/AC_motor). Read about capacitor-start, split phase motors. If you can figure out the starting winding, you should be OK to go.

As a first step, reverse what you have done to get back to the original. Then see if it works. Pay particular attention to the brown and blue wires when you are trying to find the starter winding. Reversible motors will often have a wiring diagram somewhere inside. Try to find it.

John

 

they exacly the way it is show .thereis 3 black and 3 white because there 2 small wire that go to the ligth going to the nut .
so all i have to do is cut them .
and there no wiring diagram on the motor .
do not forget it is a grizzly made in china here .junck that is all it is .the green one is the ground wire .then the black that is draw on the same wire .it is only because i merge them at the bottom .
the 2 wire at the bottom right and conner are for the light only.
as for the link you gave me well i have no clue what that mean .
am 66 and no school at all .plus am french .that make it worst.lol .
in 1993 i did set up a 1/2 lesson motor but the guy were i did get did all the wiring for me .
all i had to do is connect the switch on it .
but in 2007 i had to sell all my knives making tools .i had to move from my house to a appartment .no room for my tools .
now what if i leave the capacitor disconnect is there a danger to screw up the motor .
you see at 66 and for me to go back at making knives it will cust me about 800 .00 in tools and i have to make them all .
like for buffing i need a 1 hp with 8 buffing wheel .
drillpress .etc.etc .
cant you check that back with the info i gave now .
thank .by the way i live in ontario canada

 

yvesj,
The capacitor is necessary to start the motor properly. If you leave the capacitor out of the circuit, the motor will draw a lot of current until it is up to normal operating speed. This excess current will cause a lot of power dissipation in the motors' windings, which will lead to overheating.

 

thank you .not very good for me .
let say if i only use it with out the capacitor for about 8 hrs .but not in one shot .
maybe 10 to 15 minutes at time .some time only 2 .3 minutes .i only have to shape one hatchet handle that all.
then i will deceide if i buy 2 motor [real one ] like lesson motors .
now i will draw my wiring diagram again and i will send it you guy again .
yvesj

 

Lesson? You may be disappointed. If you are in the USA, enjoy the evening. Talk with you tomorrow. John

 

Lesson? You may be disappointed. If you are in the USA, enjoy the evening. Talk with you tomorrow. John

iam very sorry .
happy thankgaving all of you enjoy it .

here is my new wiring diagram

 

Two basic types are used in electric motor:
1) Run capacitors are rated in a range of 3-70 microfarad (mfd). Run capacitors are also rated by voltage classification. The voltage classifications are 370V and 440V. Capacitors with ratings above 70 microfarad (mfd) are starting capacitors. Run capacitors are designed for continuous duty, and are energized the entire time the motor is running. Single phase electric motors need a capacitor to energize a second phase winding. This is why sizing is so critical. If the wrong run capacitor is installed, the motor will not have an even magnetic field. This will cause the rotor to hesitate at those spots that are uneven. This hesitation will cause the motor to become noisy, increase energy consumption, cause performance to drop, and cause the motor to overheat.

2) Starting capacitors are housed in a black plastic case and have a mfd range as opposed to a specific mfd rating on run capacitors. Start capacitors (ratings of 70 microfared or higher) have three voltage classifications: 125V, 250V, and 330V. Examples would be a 35 mfd at 370V run capacitor and an 88-108 mfd at 250V start capacitor. Start capacitors increase motor starting torque and allow a motor to be cycled on and off rapidly. Start capacitors are designed for momentary use. Start capacitors stay energized long enough to rapidly bring the motor to 3/4 of full speed and are then taken out of the circuit.

 

In this thread, the OP says there is a wiring digram on the INSIDE of the motor wiring cover.

http://stason.org/TULARC/crafts/woodworking-5/46-Grizzly-grinder-sander-experience.html

 

Two basic types are used in electric motor:
1) Run capacitors are rated in a range of 3-70 microfarad (mfd). Run capacitors are also rated by voltage classification. The voltage classifications are 370V and 440V. Capacitors with ratings above 70 microfarad (mfd) are starting capacitors. Run capacitors are designed for continuous duty, and are energized the entire time the motor is running. Single phase electric motors need a capacitor to energize a second phase winding. This is why sizing is so critical. If the wrong run capacitor is installed, the motor will not have an even magnetic field. This will cause the rotor to hesitate at those spots that are uneven. This hesitation will cause the motor to become noisy, increase energy consumption, cause performance to drop, and cause the motor to overheat.

2) Starting capacitors are housed in a black plastic case and have a mfd range as opposed to a specific mfd rating on run capacitors. Start capacitors (ratings of 70 microfared or higher) have three voltage classifications: 125V, 250V, and 330V. Examples would be a 35 mfd at 370V run capacitor and an 88-108 mfd at 250V start capacitor. Start capacitors increase motor starting torque and allow a motor to be cycled on and off rapidly. Start capacitors are designed for momentary use. Start capacitors stay energized long enough to rapidly bring the motor to 3/4 of full speed and are then taken out of the circuit.

i never ask what kind of motor there out there .and how are they build .i have no scholl so i cant figure nothing that you explain to me about it .
all i ask is it possible to reverse it .

 

i never ask what kind of motor there out there .and how are they build .i have no scholl so i cant figure nothing that you explain to me about it .
all i ask is it possible to reverse it .

If you can't use the simple info I posted to see WHICH ONE of the two types your motor might be, then I suggest you protect yourself from possible injury or death and NOT try working on the electrical portions of the motor yourself. With electricity coming from the 'mains' better to be safe, than dead or hospitalized.

 

here is what on my capacitor .
DIANZ.
cbb60 sh db.
10uf 5% c.
300v.ac 50/60hz.
25/70/21 po.
iec60252.
e18428 .

 

yes but i did send you the picture of the sticker that on the motor .
is that don't tell you what type of motor it is .
like i said i am not a electrician .
but i am a carpenter .and a really good one .

 

here is what i have .
coming from the wall outlet [power] cord .
1 black.1 white .1 green .
now what is going inside the motor .
1 brun .1 blue .1 black .and 2 white from the capacitor .
that is it .
i do have 2 small wire going inside the motor for the light .but that cant be elimnited no problem .i do not need the light anyway .

 

If you can't use the simple info I posted to see WHICH ONE of the two types your motor might be, then I suggest you protect yourself from possible injury or death and NOT try working on the electrical portions of the motor yourself. With electricity coming from the 'mains' better to be safe, than dead or hospitalized.

what is i connect my wire like this [picture] showing .
because this exacly the same wire i have under my grinder

 

Did you check under the lid for the capacitor holder on the motor for the diagram?

Also, that picture does not show the capacitor wired in.

 

the capacitor only screw under the grinder base inside were all the wire are .
now the capacitor as 2 white wire going in the motor with the brun .blue and black wire .
and no there is no diagram for any thing on the grinder .
the only info about the motor is on the sticker on the motor that i send you the picture of.
i took the picture of it when i peal it off the show the grizzly guy .because they did advertise it as [1/2] but when i receive it was only a 1/3 hp .
so they gave me a 10 gifts certificat on my next purchase .lol .wow. you see 1/2 was better for me to use the right of the shaft as a buffer for 1 handle .1/3 is way to low for buffing .
now do you thing that if i connect the wire on the last picture that i send will work .
now for me to get electrucated .i will screw the switch to a 1/8 tick peice of wood .i know that i cant not hold the switch in my hand when i plug it in the electrical outlet .

 

Did you check under the lid for the capacitor holder on the motor for the diagram?

Also, that picture does not show the capacitor wired in.

what if i connect the wire like this

 

In this thread, the OP says there is a wiring digram on the INSIDE of the motor wiring cover.

http://stason.org/TULARC/crafts/woodworking-5/46-Grizzly-grinder-sander-experience.html

this is not the same grinder that i receive .
mine came in all assembly
nothing to screw on .etc.etc .
so i cant not juge by what he is saying at all .
yvesj