Ferric Chloride

Discussion in 'General Electronics Chat' started by R!f@@, Jun 9, 2011.

  1. R!f@@

    Thread Starter AAC Fanatic!

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    Been trying to get those but I have yet to find some here

    My friend had some but since he too moved his workshop, they are buried.

    He said to check a UK shop called Maplin. Any one heard of it?

    I think I can pass crystal type ferric chloride. Friend said it is possible, liquid type may be blocked.

    So, does any one know where I can buy some solid ferric's that can be dissolved to form the necessary liquid types.
    Any thing I should be aware of using these types or liquidating these.

    I just wish the customs don't confuse them with crystal meth. :eek: when I import them

    I checked ebay and found some two types of 'em. This and these

    Which is better ?
    Does the type of ferric differ in using different types of clad boards?
     
    Last edited: Jun 9, 2011
  2. bertus

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  3. Markd77

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    Maplin are reliable, if a little expensive, but if their shipping charges are ok then go for it. I couldn't find any etchant on their website but I didn't look too hard. I've bought it from them before.
    www.maplin.co.uk
    Sodium persulfate is another option for etching, also available as powder.
     
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  4. mcgyvr

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    Assuming you are trying to use this as a DIY pcb etchant you can make a "more environmentally friendly" etchant using Muriatic (hydrochloric) Acid and Hydrogen peroxide. Those "might" be easier for you to get
     
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  5. SgtWookie

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    Muriatic acid is a dilute solution of hydrochloric acid, is commonly used in the States to lower the Ph of swimming pools, and is readily available at swimming pool supply stores.

    You should be able to find hydrogen peroxide at any drugstore or in the health section at a grocery store (if they even have large grocery stores in the Maldives; I don't know).

    You pour two parts of 3% hydrogen peroxide (by volume) into a container, and add 1 part muriatic acid SLOWLY, stirring as you go. Muriatic acid will eat right through clothing and your skin; keep plenty of fresh water handy to dilute it in case of spillage or splashing. Baking soda neutralizes acid, and it is very inexpensive. Wear rubber gloves, eye protection, and do not use this solution indoors. It will etch concrete, and ruin the finish on many metals (including stainless steel). It will dissolve nylon.

    You can store used etchant for later use (not too long), but don't seal the container air-tight; I put some in a plastic bottle, and the bottle swelled up to about twice it's size due to the continuing chemical reaction of eating the copper oxide. Hydrogen peroxide decomposes into water in light, so it should be stored in a dark place.
     
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  6. Wendy

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    I don't even try to store the mix, I keep the two components separate and mix when needed. I give instructions for this and more here.

    How I make PCBs

    So Rifaa, ever get the toner transfer to work for you, or are you going with the photographic technique?
     
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  7. magnet18

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    Just to point out, the decomposition results in the release of oxygen gas.
     
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  8. nerdegutta

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    I'm using this:
    [​IMG]

    It's pretty safe. I've got some splashes on my hands and clothes. No harm done.
     
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  9. radiohead

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  10. R!f@@

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    OK guys let me check the drug stores for the stuff first.

    @ Bill.
    The transfer method is yet to decide as I have learned recently the transfer method is unique to the clad board types.
    Which makes me wonder what type I have.

    Will post details on this after a trip around Male'.
     
  11. R!f@@

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    I tried all the pharmacies, all I can get is the peroxide.
    No Hydrochloric possible.

    Any other Ideas guys?
    Is it possible to make the acid with house hold chemicals ?
     
  12. magnet18

    Senior Member

    Dec 22, 2010
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    Do they have pool stores in the maldives?

    and I don't think HCl can be made easily, but it can be done by bubbling chlorine gas through water or decomposing sulfuric acid, if you had sulfuric acid you wouldn't need HCl, and I don't think you have chlorine gas laying around.

    You might see if acetic acid will work. It might take forever, but it's just vinegar.

    Out of curiosity, do they have chemistry classes in the Maldives?

    [EDIT]
    or some drain cleaners have HCl in them, or if you can get ahold of some NaHSO4 you can make it.
     
    Last edited: Jun 12, 2011
  13. R!f@@

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    We have chemistry classes but access to the lab is restricted.
    I believe hospital lab has hydrochloric, so I am trying to find some one who works in the lab to get me some.

    The peroside I can get is quite cheap. MRF 10.00 for a 100ml I think.
    How much acid would I need to etch a standard 12" by 4" SS clad board. I like to know the amount I would need for 100ml Peroxide.

    Sgt said 2 part of 3% peroxide to I part of HCL.So for every 100ml of peroxide I need 50ml HCL, I believe. But the 3% of peroxide part is confusing me.
    Can any one tell me what the 3% means.
     
  14. Kermit2

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    It means 97% H2O and 3% H2O2.

    Weak stuff.

    One more thing. If you get the crystal ferric chloride, expect to create an etching solution very slowly. Best if you access to some ice. The process of hydrating the crystals is VERY exothermic. (It gets hot!)
     
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  15. R!f@@

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    shooooot!!..Now I get it. DUH!!!...
     
  16. MrChips

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    See if you can lay your hands on some ammonium persulphate - a lot cleaner to use and you can keep on reusing it by adding an oxidising agent.
     
  17. Wendy

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    I am under the impression that Muriatic acid is universal for swimming pools, so the question about swimming pools in the Maldives is a good one. Aren't there swimming pools there? If there are someone has to provide them their basics.
     
  18. R!f@@

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    Ammonium persulphate...

    What the heck is that ?
    How can I recognize it?
     
  19. R!f@@

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    We do have swimming pools bill.
    As I have seen on some guest house buildings.
    You think they will have Muriatic acid.
     
  20. SgtWookie

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    Muriatic is a diluted hydrochloric acid. You would not want to use straight hydrochloric acid, as it would eat right through everything - and it would be dangerous to use. Swimming pool "muriatic acid" is at the right dilution for homemade PCB's.
     
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