FBI (Fire-Burglary Inc.) Alarm Keypad

Discussion in 'The Projects Forum' started by spacewrench, Dec 19, 2010.

  1. spacewrench

    Thread Starter Member

    Oct 5, 2009
    58
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    My 70's-era house had a defunct FBI alarm system, so I took out the NEMA boxes with the discrete-logic boards and telephone dialers and so on, but the keypads stayed behind (because otherwise there would've been gaping holes in the walls!)

    I'd like to use the keypads to talk to a microcontroller, but I have no docs. Is anybody familiar with these devices, or happen to have a schematic or something lying about? I'll disassemble and poke if I have to (it can't be that hard -- there's a 10-key pad, 10 LEDs, a couple of DIPs, and 10 wires coming off) but it sure would be nice to have some docs to work from...

    The keypad has a sticker reading XL1219R (model #?) and a possible date of 10/85. Board text includes "EPC-1" and "P3516".

    Pictures at http://www.mersenne.com/gallery2/v/FBI/
     
  2. thatoneguy

    AAC Fanatic!

    Feb 19, 2009
    6,357
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    404 Error on the link

    You can usually cut the traces out of the keypad and connect the rows and columns directly, though that takes a PIC with more I/O, or a couple shift registers to scan.

    If one of the ICs is a matrix decoder then things are a bit easier.
     
  3. Kermit2

    AAC Fanatic!

    Feb 5, 2010
    3,766
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    Open 'em up - poke even. :) look for numbers on IC's and google them up. the data sheet will tell you what it is.

    When you find out what you have post all the info and your questions here.
     
  4. RiJoRI

    Well-Known Member

    Aug 15, 2007
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    FWIW, FBII was bought by Ademco in the 90's, and Ademco was bought by Honeywell in the 2000s.

    From what I understand, the switches on the back of the keypad set a code; if you entered the code on the keypad thereby creating a match, a relay would be activated to work as a keyswitch.

    HTH,
    --Rich
     
  5. spacewrench

    Thread Starter Member

    Oct 5, 2009
    58
    1
    Thanks, all. I'm a little nervous about taking apart the keypad to look at the chips (worried that the screws will stick and tear traces, etc) but I guess I don't have much choice. Worst case, there's a flexi cable to the tenkey pad, and the LEDs are just sticking up from the PCB, so I could design a replacement board with an AVR that processes the keystrokes locally and communicates with the rest of the system over just a couple of wires of the 10-conductor cable that's been pulled through my walls.

    Will post followups over the holiday.
     
  6. spacewrench

    Thread Starter Member

    Oct 5, 2009
    58
    1
    Top side of board (composite picture created by flopping keyboard & flexi-cable left & right). The Q0-Q6 outputs of the latch drive B0-B6 of the Darlingtons, which (I think) turn on 7 of the LEDs. Q7 goes over to the beeper, probably runs that. I haven't yet figured out how power gets in (it's not an obvious one of the wires, or through a bridge rectifier). Also, I don't yet know how the keypad works, though I think the huge number of diodes has something to do with it.
     
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