It's OK Sgt.
I have a quite a collection of PIC's I bought when ever I can. If I found some on Ebay cheap and plenty I bought it. Never had an idea on where I will be using them.
EasyPIC 7 devolopment board.
- Thread starter R!f@@
- Start date
I have a quite a collection of PIC's I bought when ever I can. If I found some on Ebay cheap and plenty I bought it. Never had an idea on where I will be using them.
Hey Guys.
I need a little advice on this.
See the holes in the ports.
I was wondering, can I solder these headers below to the board so I can connect project proto's like 4X4 key pads as such
It will be the same as the port connections on the right side of the board and the ones around the LED's and switches, tight ?
I need a little advice on this.
See the holes in the ports.
I was wondering, can I solder these headers below to the board so I can connect project proto's like 4X4 key pads as such
It will be the same as the port connections on the right side of the board and the ones around the LED's and switches, tight ?
Right.
Except the connections marked NC, which are completely isolated.
And as long as you are sure that you really do want the turned pin sockets. Un-soldering is fiddly if you change your mind (and I know because I fitted terminal blocks there, then regretted it and had to un-solder them all).
EDIT: What is it that you want to plug in exactly? - these turned pin sockets do not look like something that you would plug a 4x4 keypad into, but it depends on what connector the keypad has.
Seems like an unusual choice to me, but perhaps you know what you are doing?
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MaxHeadRoom
- Joined Jul 18, 2013
- 28,686
What I have done in similar instances is solder 10cond ribbon cable into the holes and use a standard IDC header on the proto boards and just plug the ribbon in.
The strip board I use takes the IDC pin spacing.
It saves plugging in individual conductors and avoids mistakes if you make the proto boards to all the same standard pattern.
Max.
The strip board I use takes the IDC pin spacing.
It saves plugging in individual conductors and avoids mistakes if you make the proto boards to all the same standard pattern.
Max.
I bought a bag of 5x2 female header sockets.
These match the 5x2 header pin blocks, of which the EasyPIC7 now has 2 for each port.
You can see one (just) in this photo;
I have lots of these 5x2 socket blocks soldered up with things like LEDs, speakers, controls etc.
This photo shows two 5x2 socket blocks, one has an RGB LED the other has a mini trackball;
You can get a bag of 50 on ebay for a few bucks.
Regarding soldering in a row of connectors to the EasyPIC7, I would suggest you use pins, not sockets. Pins do not wear out. Also, the 5x2 shape connects to the same thing, but is a more secure connection than a 10x1 single row (which are loose and wobble).
And while I'm posting photos, here's a 20x4 text LCD plugged straight in (as mentioned before). I put a header on that display so it's on an angle, and doesn't cover the LEDs. It really allows a lot more debugging display space;
These match the 5x2 header pin blocks, of which the EasyPIC7 now has 2 for each port.
You can see one (just) in this photo;
I have lots of these 5x2 socket blocks soldered up with things like LEDs, speakers, controls etc.
This photo shows two 5x2 socket blocks, one has an RGB LED the other has a mini trackball;
You can get a bag of 50 on ebay for a few bucks.
Regarding soldering in a row of connectors to the EasyPIC7, I would suggest you use pins, not sockets. Pins do not wear out. Also, the 5x2 shape connects to the same thing, but is a more secure connection than a 10x1 single row (which are loose and wobble).
And while I'm posting photos, here's a 20x4 text LCD plugged straight in (as mentioned before). I put a header on that display so it's on an angle, and doesn't cover the LEDs. It really allows a lot more debugging display space;
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Yes it works fine and works in 4bit or 8bit. Just plug it in!
I have used maybe 10 displays 20x4 and they have the same 16 pin connector (or 14 pins with no backlight) and they plug straight in and work just as easily as the 16x2 does.
So does a 16x1 display, (but they are sometimes addressed as two lines of 8 chars).
I have used maybe 10 displays 20x4 and they have the same 16 pin connector (or 14 pins with no backlight) and they plug straight in and work just as easily as the 16x2 does.
So does a 16x1 display, (but they are sometimes addressed as two lines of 8 chars).
My experience is that all new displays with the 16 pin connector in that position should plug straight into an EasyPIC dev board and work fine.
I have bought displays from different ebay sellers and even surplus outlets.
Keep an eye out for NON-backlight displays. They only use about 3mA to run, where backlight displays can need 50-200mA depending on backlight type.
The NON backlight displays are getting harder to find, but are very useful for small devices powered from 9v battery etc.
If you have unlimited power available the backlight ones are easier to read and commonly sourced. And backlights are getting more efficient, I found a yellow on black one that was readable with only about 10mA backlight current and a few mA more for the display.
I have bought displays from different ebay sellers and even surplus outlets.
Keep an eye out for NON-backlight displays. They only use about 3mA to run, where backlight displays can need 50-200mA depending on backlight type.
The NON backlight displays are getting harder to find, but are very useful for small devices powered from 9v battery etc.
If you have unlimited power available the backlight ones are easier to read and commonly sourced. And backlights are getting more efficient, I found a yellow on black one that was readable with only about 10mA backlight current and a few mA more for the display.
