The hole size does not change. The pad size increases. 0.032" is a good drill size. I don't know why you want them any larger?

I have an earlier registered version of Cadsoft Eagle.

I do not care to pay money out of my pocket again to upgrade it to help other people with their problems.

I do not have another computer available to install the v5.6/v5.7 freeware version on.

If you wish, you can go to cadsoftusa's FTP site, download and install v4.16r2, and re-create your board in it, then I can help you.

If not, perhaps someone else will help you.

 

Just use a differrent wirepad or something..... if you want more copper area and same size hole then use the wirepad library and select the 2,54/1,0 this has a little more copper around the hole.....

It would be easier to create a schematic first, and select the appropriate components you are using, then eagle can make the PCB for you and you will just have to place the components where you want them on the board.... most of these components are based on standards being used in the industry, if you need something that deviates from a standard I suggest learn how to use the library editor and create your own packages and footprints.....

Thousands (could be millions actually!!) of people use Eagle Cad because it is EASY to use.... It is not that hard to click around on stuff and learn what they do or what they are for. If you click on something and it did not do what you wanted, use the undo button and try again .....


Or if creating schematics and PCB's are still way beyond your abilities (or even using the resources provided by applications to guide you), then I would suggest using pre drilled perf boards you can get at any local radio shack and just do a point to point solder on your circuit .

Or just hand draw the circuit any size you want with a permanent marker on a piece of copper clad board then etch it.

And you can drill the holes any size you want as long as you don't have to hammer the component to get it through the PCB... just remember one thing, this is your project, do what you think is right, or do what YOU want.


My .02

 

Ok , I finally got it the way I want it.
I cut my copper clad board into the proper size.
printed out my eagle etching design.
Taped the edges of the paper to the copper clad board so it won't slip away when ironing it.

But my problem now is I ironed the piece of paper for over 30minutes
but only part of the design stuck to the board (bits and pieces)

I used gloss paper on an ink jet printer. Thats at least what it said to use to do the toner method but no luck????

I tried two different types of gloss paper....

So I know this has been talked about a ton but I really haven't found any paper that works.

So can somebody give me a brand of paper that I can pickup locally in MA. That will transfer over to the copper clad board (all of the ink with easy?)

Also I tried using a magic marker for testing it was good but how long are you suppose to leave it in their for because I left it in their for a good 5 to 10 minutes and it still had some small copper dotes on it where the magic marker wasn't???

So basically 2 main questions
what paper transfers over to the copper clad board that I can use?
how long on average must you leave the copper clad board in the acid solution until it is completely eatten away? I am looking for a round about estimate +- 10 or 20 minutes is fine but right now I have no reasonable time gage for it.

Also is it a good idea to reuse the acid solution once you already used it or should you always pour fresh new acid each time you etch?

I am using radio shack etchant solution contains ferric chloride... it says 20 minutes on the bottle so I guess this is the best gage.

The paper issue is the many pain in the but right now it is hindering me from designing proffessional looking boards since using magic markers don't look really proffessional at all.

Thanks for your input

 

Did you see Tom Gootee's page?
http://www.fullnet.com/~tomg/gooteepc.htm#1

From the 5th paragraph in that section:

Staples "photo basic" "gloss" for "all inkjet printers"

Ferric chloride works better if it is warm, and if you agitate the bath during etching.

You can save on etchant and reduce etching time by using copper fill. Refer to the attached.

Creating a copper fill:

1) Click the Polygon tool.
2) Select the layer to draw the polygon on.
3) For a square board, select the right angle wire bend.
4) Select a width of 0.01 or larger. Do NOT use a width of 0!
5) Select Isolate of 0.016 or 0.024
6) Select spacing same as Isolate.

Then, click on the lower left corner of the board, then the upper right corner, then close the polygon by clicking on the lower left corner again.

Then click Ratsnest. Your board is now copper-filled.

You may find it convenient to use the copper fill polygon to connect your grounds or Vcc pins. You can use the NAME tool (resistor with black R2 over it) to change the signal name of the polygon to GND, VCC or whatever you choose.

 

for doing toner transfer method of etching, you have to use a LASER JET printer with the inkjet photopaper.... staples brand photo paper works really well (Part # -471861) you have to use a laser jet to print the circuit though, it is the laser toner that works best, not inkjet.

 

Ok , I am going to give it another try tonight so far I am having paper problems "none of the paper is good for transfering ink".

I have final bought paper mentioned in some of the google links in how to do it.

It is staples photo basic gloss paper 50sheets
item / article 648181

Can anybody say for sure if this is going to work?
And how long does it typically take to transfer the ink to the copper clad board?

Also I have an ink jet printer and a laser jet printer. I can try it on both but I am going to use the laser jet one. Is their any objections to which printer to use?

I also have iron on paper that transfers to tea shirts I am going to try these as a last resort.....

Ahhhh.
Should I use steam/water in the iron or just an iron to do the transfer.
I wish I could just get it to go on the copper PCB board then I would be all set.

Thanks for any help / tips
And no permanent marker doesn't work very good unless their is a certain permanent marker brand because my all seem to smug.

 

Did you read Tom Gootee's page?
Did you read about how important it is to prep your board properly?
Haven't you read that people have already said to use a LASER PRINTER before in this thread, and in Tom Gootee's page?

Why should we bother typing all this stuff if you don't read what we type?

 

Yes , I read thru this page.

I bought photo basic gloss paper item / article 64818 50sheets at staples
I am using a hp laserjet 6L for the printer.
software eagle version 5.6 freeware version.


Am I suppose to make the paper wet before I run the iron over it or keep it dry and then after I iron it put it in soapy water. Or both.

How long should I iron it until I definitely know it is all transfered over???

Thanks I am going to try it again tonight with the photo basic paper.
Every other paper I tried doesn't really work and transfers only pieces of it.
So it is either the printer toner , the paper , or the iron ?

Thanks for anybodys info.

 

Yes , I read thru this page.

I bought photo basic gloss paper item / article 64818 50sheets at staples
I am using a hp laserjet 6L for the printer.
software eagle version 5.6 freeware version.


Am I suppose to make the paper wet before I run the iron over it or keep it dry and then after I iron it put it in soapy water. Or both.

Why would you get the paper wet first, unless you want to ruin it?

How long should I iron it until I definitely know it is all transfered over???

You didn't read Tom Gootee's page, did you?

Don't use steam; it will just cool everything off.

Thanks I am going to try it again tonight with the photo basic paper.
Every other paper I tried doesn't really work and transfers only pieces of it.
So it is either the printer toner , the paper , or the iron ?

Or the person holding the iron.

 

Well they say on his page it takes not to long like 3min to 5min of ironing.
So I am going to use no water.
highest iron setting for about 5 minutes to 10 minutes.
Then put it in soapy water and rub off the paper ever so slightly.

This better work ahhh. The only thing I can think of that I did wrong is wet the paper a little before ironing. I thought that would help it transfer the ink better. Guess not!

Thanks for setting me straight but if this time it doesn't work then it is not my fault.
Does anybody know if hp L6 printer would be the problem it is pretty old but on his site he does say the older printer tends to work well and not get damaged.

 

you must not have read any of the suggested articles if you got the paper wet before ironing .....

Trust me, if it does not work for you, it is not because of the paper, toner, printer or iron....

This is just like when I get a service call for a pc, almost 90% of the time, the problem is between the keyboard and chair ...

 

Well they say on his page it takes not to long like 3min to 5min of ironing.

I don't know where you read that, but it wasn't on Tom Gootee's page.

Try reading it again, and see if you can find the hidden message.

So I am going to use no water.
highest iron setting for about 5 minutes to 10 minutes.

Did you read the part about "longer is better" ?

Then put it in soapy water and rub off the paper ever so slightly.

I just let mine soak for half an hour before attempting to remove it.

The only thing I can think of that I did wrong is wet the paper a little before ironing. I thought that would help it transfer the ink better. Guess not!

Throw that sheet away and start over.

Thanks for setting me straight but if this time it doesn't work then it is not my fault.

If you learn how to follow instructions, and practice for a few boards, you might get the hang of it. The process can work; if it is not working for you, then there is something wrong with your particular "flavor" of the process.

Does anybody know if hp L6 printer would be the problem it is pretty old but on his site he does say the older printer tends to work well and not get damaged.

A LaserJet II or III would be better. They were very generous with toner.