Here are the connections, I'll draw up a diagram later tonight I hope.

1 PICAXE 08M2 microcontroller.

1 PICAXE 08M2 proto board Can be perfboard without programming interface as well.

The potentiometers are 100k each, preferably 10 turn for precision adjustments that won't drift with a bump. Each pot with one leg to +5V, other leg to GND, with wiper going to IC pin 5 (lower right pin if looking at IC from top) for Return delay, and IC pin 6 (2nd to lower right pin if looking at IC from top) for long random delay of target reset.

The reed switch is on IC pin 4 (lower left pin looking at IC with notch at top), 100k resistor from pin 4 to ground, then to reed switch, which is connected to +5V. When reed switch closes, IC pin 4 (C.3 in PICAXE BASIC) goes high (reed switch closes when target is down), the activation plunger is enabled, otherwise, disabled.

The Actuator output is IC Pin 3, looking from top, It will output +5V for ~0.5 to 3 seconds to run the actuator pushing the target back up, then go low, at which time the actuator will return down under spring power.

A 0.1uF Ceramic/MLCC capacitor between pins 1 and 8 (Upper left pin and upper right pin when looking at uC from top, u notch is upper most). This is a must for the ADC to read accurately.

Pin 2 tied to ground via 10k resistor to prevent PICAXE from going into programming mode. Leaving rest of programming circuit out at this time.

 

sOk, Fritzing is pushed everywhere as a "Quick and easy to use layout program".

Those people are WRONG. Hopefully this is legible enough... All resistors are 100k

Power supply + is left of jack, GND is to right, and along bottom trace of circuit.

Programming interface left out due to frustration with trying to make a straight line, change resistance values, add simple components, and... just about everything. Fritzing SUCKS for drawing circuits, unless you want a pretty picture of an Arduino Board or one from Sparkfun . I'd prefer Windows Paint, and It may came to that if this diagram isn't understood by MLD.

The reed switch is by the horizontal pulldown resistor, high side is connected to +5V, so IC pin 4 is high when reed switch is closed. THIS IS INCORRECT! The line to the IC Pin 4 should be BELOW the switch, NOT ABOVE IT. In current view, IC pin 4would always have +5V on it, make sure wire is on "downstream" side of reed switch. Their drawing and what it turns out as doesn't match. Did I mention that Fritzing layout sucks?

 

OK will wire up the circuit and try it.

 

I just built this on a breadboard, and it works perfect. The value of the pot doesn't matter, as long as one end is to +5V, the other end to GND, and the wiper goes to the pin.

The reset/actuator time pin only varies between 1/2 second and 3 seconds. I am using 20 turn potentiometers, so it took a lot of turning to get a visible difference. I was also substituting an LED for the coil.

I am using a button for the reed switch, and the actuator only moves when button is down (one side of button is 100k to GND, other side of Normally open button is +5V, The reading is from where the button and 100k resistor meet for the signal out.

Use a voltmeter and see what pins 5 and 6 are showing for voltages during your tests on pins 5 and 6, then watch. Running to extremes, such as 0.1V and supply V will show the greatest variation, I made the reset extremely sensitive so that precise timing can be done.

I can take a photo or video of the breadboard in action with the code I posted above if you want.

 

Hello,

@TOG,
Do I see pin 4 (input 3) of the chip, directly connected to the +5Volts?
That way it can never be pulled down.

Bertus

 

Hello,

@TOG,
Do I see pin 4 (input 3) of the chip, directly connected to the +5Volts?
That way it can never be pulled down.

Bertus

Yes, I noted in my fritzing rant that the signal to pin should be taken at junction of switch and 100k pulldown resistor, not where fritzing thought it should go.

I'll hand sketch a drawing before I ever install Fritzing again.

P>S Don't forget to add a flyback diode across the actuator coil, striped side to positive, in parallel with the coil. Not shown in diagram above.

 

Origional title is fulfilled with new servo operated pop up target. Servo rated @ 120 or so oz in with metal gears, from All Electronics, is a little over kill, maybe something like 16 oz in may work, but I liked the metal gears. The servo is coupled to lifting arm with bead chain & spring so that servo can raise target & return to stand by, leaving target up.

 

Very cool!

Is that running the 08 code but with servo commands, the 20M2 code with servo, or something entirely different?

The construction looks excellent!

How does the speed of the servo compare with the air actuator?

 

The electronics is up to OP. Speed is listed as .18 s for 60 deg., operates with120 deg, so .36 s up & .36 sec reset, no pause on up required. Testing with 555 pulse generator, times seem to agree. NO switch announces target fall by closing. Servo, Fitec # FS5109M.

 

Bernard Excellent work on the servo model.

 

Another slight variant of origional pop-up target with slightley lighter target. .142 in; first is .187 in. No firing results yet, except for 3 pellet hits @ 50 ft. Has interchangeable targets sa shown by waterjet cutouts.

 

Looking Good, that carrying handle looks great.

 

Here is latest version of servo operated pop-up target. Target is 4 " dia X 3/8 " of AR 500 hard steel; was able to ream almost 1/2 in mt holes with sharpened carbide tipped masonry bit. Front shield was only available in Tucson in AR 300. Hopefully it will withstand 38 & 45s
The connecting rod uses a ball & socket on lifting arm, spring shock absorber with +&- 1/2 in travel, 10-32 yoke end to connect to metal servo arm. Servo rated at 80 oz-in and lifts target in about .3 sec using 4 AA alk batteries.
Temp servo control set up on solderless bread board for testing servo.

 

One picture failed to up load- try again

 

Id like to know how many RC servos can be driven independently using a PICAXE 20M2 micro controller? I am trying to make a circuit to run several targets using several servos just using a single PICAXE micro-controller. Each servo needs to have a controlled input to enable or disable the servo. Also the servo needs to be programmed so when the input is enabled on the selected servo it will start a timing cycle to randomly trigger the servo between an X amount of time preferable a random time between 1 to 5 seconds. I would like the travel distance to be 180 degrees. If someone can supply me with code and wiring I would greatly appreciated.

MLD

 

HI
i m looking to design a Pop Up Target system that will be DC operated, Remotely controllable from a distance of around 2500 Mtrs with approx load capacity of 250 Kgs with a function of only bringing the target up and down withte help of a remote ...
pls suggest
thanks

 

I'd recommend starting your own thread, referencing this one if you must, instead of hijacking a long thread that died five years ago.

 

I'd recommend starting your own thread, referencing this one if you must, instead of hijacking a long thread that died five years ago.

how do i start a new thread ??

 

how do i start a new thread ??

If you go to the forum page you are interested in (clicking on the "Projects Forum" near the top of the page should do) then you should see a button labeled something like "Start a New Thread". Click that.

I use the blue style pages, which is the old style, instead of the orange one that is the default. The layout of the pages is slightly different, so if you still can't figure it out post a response and I'll switch over long enough to figure out how you can do it.