D204B PIR sensor

CDRIVE

Joined Jul 1, 2008
2,219
Assuming that you mean that you swapped Vdd & Vss,... yes you could have. BTW, you did put a protection diode across the relay coil, didn't you?
 

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telerian

Joined Jul 19, 2010
57
Assuming that you mean that you swapped Vdd & Vss,... yes you could have. BTW, you did put a protection diode across the relay coil, didn't you?
I wired the D and G in place of each other so D was grounded and G was on 5V. I have a diode across the relay coil. Is there a way I can check if the sensor is still good or damaged ?, I mean with a voltmeter or something ?
 

Thread Starter

telerian

Joined Jul 19, 2010
57
Which was it, D and S or D and G reversed? Do you know? Are you sure? Do you have the datasheet for the sensor?

John
I attached the datasheet of the sensor, I reversed the D and G as the Source was difficult to confuse (it is in the middle)

I made the first post late at night after almost 9 hours working on this circuit
 

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CDRIVE

Joined Jul 1, 2008
2,219
Using a DVM; what is the DC voltage between GND and the Source (S), that connects to pin 14 of the BISS0001?
 
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jpanhalt

Joined Jan 18, 2008
11,087
Look at the picture on page 3 of the sensor's datasheet, i.e., the one you reviewed. You basically set a test up as shown, you may or may not need a buffer/amplifier (depending on your DVM), then you get a heat source of 150°C ±15°, chop it at about 1 Hz (almost any thing would work, including heavy cardboard) and see whether the output changes when exposed vs. when shielded from the heat.

As best I can remember, that is what the datasheet says to do to test the device. Obviously, the sensor is designed for lower temperatures too, but use of 150°C is an extreme case to see if it works at all.

John
 

Thread Starter

telerian

Joined Jul 19, 2010
57
Look at the picture on page 3 of the sensor's datasheet, i.e., the one you reviewed. You basically set a test up as shown, you may or may not need a buffer/amplifier (depending on your DVM), then you get a heat source of 150°C ±15°, chop it at about 1 Hz (almost any thing would work, including heavy cardboard) and see whether the output changes when exposed vs. when shielded from the heat.

As best I can remember, that is what the datasheet says to do to test the device. Obviously, the sensor is designed for lower temperatures too, but use of 150°C is an extreme case to see if it works at all.

John
What do you mean by chopping it ?, you mean I put the cardboard between the heat source and the sensor ?
 

jpanhalt

Joined Jan 18, 2008
11,087
Chopping = interrupting the light source. It is usually done with a mechanical slit or shutter/disk rather than turning it on and off.

That is how you tell IR on from IR off voltage.
John
 

Thread Starter

telerian

Joined Jul 19, 2010
57
I tried the test and here is what I got
The DC voltage on the 47K resistor (S to ground) is 0.5 in normal conditions
Using the heat source (my soldering iron) the voltage goes up to 2V and drops rapidly to 0.5V. I am not sure what this means.
The strange thing is that I was using the 5V source from the circuit I made (the one in the BISS0001 datasheet) and I found out that once I fed it power the relay would close even when the sensor not being connected which means pin 14 is only connected to the capacitor and the resistor !!
The diode is being connected to 2N2222A transistor
 

jpanhalt

Joined Jan 18, 2008
11,087
A change form 0.5 to 2.0 volts seems to indicate that the sensor works. If your circuit doesn't work, I would focus on how you wired the interface/amplifier IC. If you have an oscilloscope, you can troubleshoot that part easily. But, since you don't, can you borrow one?

John
 

Thread Starter

telerian

Joined Jul 19, 2010
57
A change form 0.5 to 2.0 volts seems to indicate that the sensor works. If your circuit doesn't work, I would focus on how you wired the interface/amplifier IC. If you have an oscilloscope, you can troubleshoot that part easily. But, since you don't, can you borrow one?

John
Unfortunately, I can't borrow one but I did check the circuit several times. My doubt was around the transistor, is the one I used ok ?. I removed R1, R3 in the diagram and just connected pin 9 to 5V. I am wondering how the IC is giving a high output even with the sensor not connected
 

CDRIVE

Joined Jul 1, 2008
2,219
If the relay is on all the time and you want to check the NPN Transistor... just short the base to the emitter or GND. If the relay doesn't drop out you have a bad or improperly oriented transistor.
 
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Thread Starter

telerian

Joined Jul 19, 2010
57
If the relay is on all the time and you want to check the NPN Transistor... just short the base to the emitter or GND. If the relay doesn't drop out you have a bad or improperly oriented transistor.
I shorted the base to the emitter and the relays opens. I have 0v on pin 14 and vo (pin 3) is 1.8V and this is causing the relay to close
 
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