Speaking of other things -
Magnet, your Reset AND gate (on the Hours schematic) sucks very much bad.

Gee, I hate it when people beat around the bush! Too funny!
BTW, where is Magnet's full schematic? I've lost track.

 

Gee, I hate it when people beat around the bush! Too funny!
BTW, where is Magnet's full schematic? I've lost track.

You can find them here:
http://forum.allaboutcircuits.com/showpost.php?p=325710&postcount=17
If there are newer ones, I hope Magnet will post them here.

 

You can find them here:
http://forum.allaboutcircuits.com/showpost.php?p=325710&postcount=17
If there are newer ones, I hope Magnet will post them here.

Now I remember why I forgot these. They're so large that ya can't view the darn things without scrolling in all directions. I just love schematics when a single (exaggeration) component fills the entire screen.

 

Now I remember why I forgot these. They're so large that ya can't view the darn things without scrolling in all directions. I just love schematics when a single (exaggeration) component fills the entire screen.

On my computer, the entire schematic fits on the screen. I can click on it to zoom to the "single component" view.

 

On my computer, the entire schematic fits on the screen. I can click on it to zoom to the "single component" view.

Yeah, I had to bring it down to 30%.

 

the schematic fits in my screen just fine
And I know the reset sucks, at the time I didn't know how to use an and gate

And I don't think the manual reset as you drew it will work, wouldn't just a switch, resistor, and maybe an OR gate (if you felt fancy) work?

 

Well, it's not the 4017 or the nixie, I just replaced both to no avail, guess I'll just rip all the transistors and resistors out and try again, one at a time this time.

 

What happens in a breadboard setup? One resistor to the anode and only one cathode to ground? What happens when the resistor gets larger (I know the data sheets say 20K or thereabout, but I also ran lots and lots of NE-2 neons [same gas, really small electrodes] with 270K ohms)?

 

Can someone slap me for me?
The transistors were backwards (figured nothing else worked...)
(on a side note, I just ripped a reference sheet off the wall)

 

What's the directions to your house?

 

What happens when the resistor gets larger (I know the data sheets say 20K or thereabout, but I also ran lots and lots of NE-2 neons [same gas, really small electrodes] with 270K ohms)?

Too bad, I liked this one! I think I used to regularly use 180K.

 

Cough cough...
back to the current limiting issue, a 120K resistor (brown red yellow) seems to limit it to 8mA, that doesn't seem right...

 

okey dokey, nevermind, it works fine.
In other news, I no longer trust my multimeter.

 

Pleece esplain Loosy.

 

When I put my multimeter in the line with the 22K resistor it read >20mA, then I put 220K in the line and it read about 4 mA, but the numeral only lit up halfway and dimly, so I dusted off the old analog millamp meter and found that the 22 K was the one I needed to e using with about 2mA, and that the 220 was barely moving the meter.
The math and the visual appearance of the tube support the old analog meter, so I assume the milliamp measurement on the DMM is wrong.

 

Ammeter scales are easily damaged. Usually the shunts get damaged by a major overload when people are careless. It's easy enough to confirm the accuracy of the meter though. Use a known voltage and resistor. Then use Ohms Law. Keep in mind that ammeters inherently add some resistance in series with the load your measuring.

You can also put your analog meter and DMM in series to compare the readings.

 

it may not have been exact, but it was fairly close. Ohms law and a voltage drop reading confirmed it. A little low if anything, which makes sense.
I also compared it against a known good meter at school and it was fairly close, good enough for me.
My DMM, on the other hand, gave crap readings. Harbor freight special right there.

 

My DMM, on the other hand, gave crap readings. Harbor freight special right there.

Ahhhh, that explains it. On the other hand, I have a drill press that I bought from them way back when their name was Pacific Salvage. It's over 33 years old and still going. It's definitely not a great machine, like an old Rockwell, but it does the job.

 

Ahhhh, that explains it. On the other hand, I have a drill press that I bought from them way back when their name was Pacific Salvage. It's over 33 years old and still going. It's definitely not a great machine, like an old Rockwell, but it does the job.

Yea, some things they make are crap, some last a lifetime.
Like the grinder we got, 7 years old and no trouble at all. Got a couple vices there, they'll probably outlive me.
My dad made the mistake of buying a soldering gun there once, it melted in 5 minutes and the tip fell clean off.
At least they take returns without any trouble.

Back to discussing something productive?-
http://forum.allaboutcircuits.com/showpost.php?p=367360&postcount=66

 

the schematic fits in my screen just fine
And I know the reset sucks, at the time I didn't know how to use an and gate

And I don't think the manual reset as you drew it will work, wouldn't just a switch, resistor, and maybe an OR gate (if you felt fancy) work?

Tell me what's wrong with the manual reset. "I don't think it will work" ain't good enough.