Thanks for your replies, BRreeves and mcgyvr.

Now I'm curious to see a photo (or a link) to a manual crimper costing 500 bucks or more. Somebody can post something? (I will show it to my wife! )

Wow, Sharing porn with your wife? Weird.

 

Here is a picture of a $500 crimper, but since I am such a nice guy they took $480.05 off and sold it to me for $19.95.

 

And they still over charged you by 3 times.

If you wanted to make it a real $500 crimper just have Fluke printed on the handle.

 

If crimping two wires at once is wrong, I don't want to be right.........

 

Thanks for your replies, BRreeves and mcgyvr.

Now I'm curious to see a photo (or a link) to a manual crimper costing 500 bucks or more. Somebody can post something? (I will show it to my wife! )

http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/te-connectivity-amp-connectors/1762846-1/A120092-ND/2040046

 

Wow!! We managed to beat out more glue from that poor horsey!

 

Hi,

Crimping is supposed to be better than solder, but of course that is when the crimp is done perfectly.
The conductivity of solder isnt that great, so that's probably one reason, and the other is that the solder forms a solid core so the strands tend to break right where they meet up with the solder, and they may break one by one which gradually increases the resistance over time. If you have ever soldered jumper leads back onto the alligator clips then you have seen the wires break off right at the solder blob. There are some tricks we can use however to keep it from stressing right at the wire/solder interface.

I dont see why making a Y connector would be so hard to do.

 

http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/te-connectivity-amp-connectors/1762846-1/A120092-ND/2040046

OMG! 2,580 dollars!
Honestly, for that price I was expecting some kind of desktop heavy "manual machine" keeping the wires and the connector both blocked in their micro-metric adjustable-position while crimping.

 

OMG! 2,580 dollars!
Honestly, for that price I was expecting some kind of desktop heavy "manual machine" keeping the wires and the connector both blocked in their micro-metric adjustable-position while crimping.

Yes, but there is a "huge" discount if you order 100 units.

Is the current draw of your accessory available? Is it 1 amp, 3 amps, 10 amps, 30 amps?

 

If you have ever soldered jumper leads back onto the alligator clips then you have seen the wires break off right at the solder blob. There are some tricks we can use however to keep it from stressing right at the wire/solder interface.

Yeah, I know that wires brakes always (soldered or crimped) after a while. In my case the connectors are not moving, they have a static (i.e. connected to the electric circuit of the motorcycle). My only concerns are about vibrations and durability against oxidation and (maybe) some water drops.
By following the suggestion/helps received on this forum I will add some kind of sleeve (i.e. with two overlapping heat-shrink tubes, or semi-rigid tubes from 3M) to make the transition crimp-to-wire more smooth as possible.

I dont see why making a Y connector would be so hard to do.

For me this remains a big problem instead. I could make a soldered-joint but after how I seal it and protect from corrosion and water? Since the connector is not completely hidden int he fairing of the motorcycle, I cannot simply cover it with an unaesthetic "blob" of black silicone

 

Is the current draw of your accessory available? Is it 1 amp, 3 amps, 10 amps, 30 amps?

Less than 120mA in the worst case.

 

Less than 120mA in the worst case.

So now we are up to 111 posts about a milliamp connection? What is wrong with pulling off from any power source in the protected headlight dome or under the seat? Any automotive splice kit will work.

 

So now we are up to 111 posts about a milliamp connection? What is wrong with pulling off from any power source in the protected headlight dome or under the seat? Any automotive splice kit will work.

Sorry, I was not aware that threads should have a minimum amount of Ampere to be interesting.
If you propose a simple splice-device this means that you know nothing about motorcycle and their harsh environment conditions (expecially in off-road).
Ok, I will connect it to the usb-plug of my info-entertainment system by bridging it with the portatile-drink-cooler-set installed on my Cool4000-superlimousine-turbojet.

Just to give you an idea:

 

Wrap wire around stripped 1/2 inch section and solder. Wrap tightly with stretchy black electrical tape.
Done in 5 minutes and will last for years.

Use shrink tubing after applying small amount of RTV silicone and connection will outlast the bike.

Or just keep thinking about doing it for however long you desire.

 

Sorry, I was not aware that threads should have a minimum amount of Ampere to be interesting.
If you propose a simple splice-device this means that you know nothing about motorcycle and their harsh environment conditions (expecially in off-road).
Ok, I will connect it to the usb-plug of my info-entertainment system by bridging it with the portatile-drink-cooler-set installed on my Cool4000-superlimousine-turbojet.

Just to give you an idea:
View attachment 102595

It's not that I don't know anything about the topic, it is the fact that it also took 113 posts to have you start explaining the magnitude and usage conditions of what you are trying to do. Don't you think that a picture like that should have been posted in your first or second post because motocross is a small subset of motorcycling? Read through this thread and let me know if you think the members had any idea of what you are trying to do.

What exactly are you connecting and where on the bike do you plan to connect it? Do a data sump and let us know what you have available (cable sizes, locations, conditions, ...).

 

I've crimped thousands and thousands of connections with this tool, and it works fine.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006CR4VY6?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00

@gimpo - I hate riding in mud! lol

 

yep.. thanks to China.. knockoffs of "professional" tools are all over the place and cost FAR less then the originals..
Now if they were smart they would have gotten agency approval (and a bit of marketing dollars) and could just about destroy the tooling sales for AMP/TE/MOLEX/PANDUIT,etc...

 

Starting at pg 50, with splicing terminals and going to the end where they call out the crimp inserts needed and the part number of the crimp tool.
Many of the butt splice terminals are designed for one wire at one end and two wires at the other.
Maybe it will help someone other than the OP

 

Starting at pg 50, with splicing terminals and going to the end where they call out the crimp inserts needed and the part number of the crimp tool.
Many of the butt splice terminals are designed for one wire at one end and two wires at the other.
Maybe it will help someone other than the OP

and.. "note the note"

Not UL or CSA approved with use of multiple wires.

 

and.. "note the note"

Not UL or CSA approved with use of multiple wires.

Not a big deal, the only risk the OP has is that his connected device will stop working unless he manages to short two splices together or a splice to the frame. In that case, the wet mud will likely keep the bike from bursting into flames.