Count down timer for my soccer club

Thread Starter

chrischrischris

Joined Feb 18, 2012
313
Hi elec_mech.

Pin 3 & 8 of the display going to Vcc to half current makes sense. I've amended my drawing. However the C.A. displays only have 1 Vcc connection (connected to each segment) - so no problems.

The BCD in my timer schematic - correct, it was a mistake - built correctly, drawn incorrectly. I still need to rename components to numbers (i.e. R1, R2, C1, etc). Will do that soon.
View attachment Count down timer PCB_V6.pdf
PS. the BCD is still connected in the circuit to give full flexibility to change the count down time to something odd. I was looking at placing it somewhere water proof on the score board for people to access.

The blue syran wrap (we call cellophane) - will try it. Your absolutely right - I can imagine it will make a huge difference because the white of the displays won't be seen.

Higher voltage supply - yes, I will try it out.

Making my own digits if all else fails - yes, I tried already into perspex - cracks really easily. I did buy 100 leds of various colours and strengths already. I arranged some to make a digit and it worked, however my power supply couldn't handle it at the time. I even have 15000mcd leds - I'm "sure" they would be bright enough. It's just time to build. I see how I go.

As for the Vcc and current measurements (thanks for detailed explanation of how to measure), results are:

24.04 regulated power supply
Resistors = 7.5Ω
(C.A to segment / ULN to resis / ULN earth to ULN outputs / total Vcc)
a = 22.39v / 0.66v / 0.78v = 23.88
b = 22.36v / 0.68v / 0.78v = 23.82
c = 22.38v / 0.66v / 0.78v = 23.82
d = 21.68v / 1.27v / 0.76v = 23.81
e = 21.60v / 1.35v / 0.76v = 23.81
f = 22.50v / 0.60v / 0.78v = 23.88
g = 22.44v / 0.62v / 0.78v = 23.84
Average = 23.84.

Currents:
a=85mA, b=88mA, c=86mA, d=158mA, e=170mA, f=79mA, g=82mA.
Total = 748mA1 (Av 106mA).

Not sure why "d" and "e" go so bright. Obviously need larger resistors to compensate.

So from above, please correct me if I'm wrong:
a. Voltage supply of 24.04V "just covers it, but a bit higher would be safer
b. Adjust resistors with new supply to reach say 25mA per led (i.e. 25x5 per segment.
 

elec_mech

Joined Nov 12, 2008
1,500
PS. the BCD is still connected in the circuit to give full flexibility to change the count down time to something odd. I was looking at placing it somewhere water proof on the score board for people to access.
You could get clever and just use a fast and slow clock to set the time via the remote. That way they don't "touch" the circuit or expose it to the elements (of course, the BCD switches could be moved off the board to alieve this concern). If you leave everything the same and allow the user to change the BCD settings, then they also change the results of your 25, 30, 35, and 40 minute settings. Up to you though.
24.04 regulated power supply Resistors = 7.5Ω (C.A to segment / ULN to resis / ULN earth to ULN outputs / total Vcc) a = 22.39v / 0.66v / 0.78v = 23.88 b = 22.36v / 0.68v / 0.78v = 23.82 c = 22.38v / 0.66v / 0.78v = 23.82 d = 21.68v / 1.27v / 0.76v = 23.81 e = 21.60v / 1.35v / 0.76v = 23.81 f = 22.50v / 0.60v / 0.78v = 23.88 g = 22.44v / 0.62v / 0.78v = 23.84 Average = 23.84. Currents: a=85mA, b=88mA, c=86mA, d=158mA, e=170mA, f=79mA, g=82mA. Total = 748mA1 (Av 106mA). Not sure why "d" and "e" go so bright. Obviously need larger resistors to compensate.
Hmm, first, it's odd that d and e are taking more current. Let's check a few things first: 1) Are d and e noticeably brighter? 2) Does this hold true for all/most of your digits or just the one you measured? 3) Pull each resistor out (one side will work) from your circuit and check the resistance. You could have a couple of bad resistors or at least two that are far enough different from the others to make a difference. I assume you're using 5% tolerance resistors? 4) If the resistors are all about the same values, try replacing the ULN2003 with a new one. Any difference? 5) Failing 3) and 4), try switching the LED digit for another one. Any difference? It could be the LED segments in which case your only option is to either use a different resistor value or replace the digit entirely. My point being you shouldn't have to use a unique resistor value for every segment in the same digit. I hope the problem is with the resistors or ULN2003. I'd be concerned if it was the LEDs in the digit (who knows what problems it will have in the future?). Bill might have some input on this as well.
So from above, please correct me if I'm wrong: a. Voltage supply of 24.04V "just covers it, but a bit higher would be safer b. Adjust resistors with new supply to reach say 25mA per led (i.e. 25x5 per segment.
I'd definitely go with a larger voltage supply. I read a nice response on this subject from Bill sometime earlier this year on another post. He might have some info on this in his blog on LEDs. And yes, the 25mA supply per LED strip sounds like a good approach to see if they'll be bright enough for your application. Before implementing these, I'd suggest locking in the size you need the digits first, then brightness. You may well find you don't need much more in the way of voltage or current with what you already have. Hate to see you spend a lot of time or money on this to find out you need a different display altogether with different requirements. This comes from personal experience.
 

Thread Starter

chrischrischris

Joined Feb 18, 2012
313
Hi elec_mech.

I thought of the fast/slow from the remote, but though I would keep it simple as it would be rarely used.

The bright segments - yes, they are brighter. I think it's faulty. I did try another display and I "think" it also was a bit all over the place. I'll check again tonight and let you know.

I'll also print out a 12", 16", and 20" display and see how it looks from a distance. Still waiting on buying blue celephane to see how that goes. I'll get back to you soon.
 

Wendy

Joined Mar 24, 2008
23,408
I would like to see that myself. Finding colored plastic is always a problem for displays. All the hardware stores in my area likes to sell is transparant acrylic. There is supposed to be a local plastics house that sells other colors, but I have not found them yet.

I take it you have decided blue is more visible in daylight?
 

Thread Starter

chrischrischris

Joined Feb 18, 2012
313
Hi Bill.
I did by some "blue" cellophane (we call it). I need to test it in daylight now - it was raining and dark all day.

I did google for the plastic elec_mech suggested and there are some places that have it.

Ultra blue - now that seems to be a bit of a problem. I've asked someone who deals with colour and they say our eyes don't pick up bright blue so clearly at night. Damn. To add, the 8" are a bit too small.

I looked up a supplier in china today that sold led signs you see at petrol (gas) stations. They are red however, but 16" or 20" (see attached file).
View attachment PE-AZR.pdf
These are made of LEDs that are 4000mcd. They run on a 12V DC supply and and a 30A supply can handle 24 units so they say. They come with their own light dimming circuitry (which was another thing I was considering). I asked if I could adapt them to use on my scoreboard and their "engineer" said no - however the english translation the whole time was a little ordinary.

On one hand I want a pre-manufactured unit that is bright enough. On the other hand making a digit isn't rocket science, but teadious. But it means repairs would be easy - just replace some leds. So I'm still deliberating which way to go. I'll experiment more on the weekend (at least with the 10" units I have and the blue plastic - that I'll buy).

Mech_elec - I verified 3 of the segments on the 8" digits draw higher current - brighter with same resistor. This happens on 2 of the 4 I've got. The supplier says to just to use different resistors. This is fine, but what happens one day if someone has to change the digit? They would have to balance again with different resistors - hmmmmm.
 

elec_mech

Joined Nov 12, 2008
1,500
Ultra blue - now that seems to be a bit of a problem. I've asked someone who deals with colour and they say our eyes don't pick up bright blue so clearly at night. Damn. To add, the 8" are a bit too small.
Bah, if you get into the science of it, our eyes pick up green the best and red is ideal for night time because our eyes, for lack of a better description, don't need to adjust as much. There is a much more scientific explanation, but I don't know what it is offhand. Do note that red lights are used in darkrooms without ruining the film and most alarm clocks use red LEDs for a reason.

In the end, you really just need to try it out in your application and see what you think. As Bill inferred, blue LED displays are well-suited for daylight reading applications, but that doesn't mean they won't work for night applications. Besides, blue is cool and you'll be the envy of, well, other home scoreboard makers. :)

These are made of LEDs that are 4000mcd. They run on a 12V DC supply and and a 30A supply can handle 24 units so they say. They come with their own light dimming circuitry (which was another thing I was considering). I asked if I could adapt them to use on my scoreboard and their "engineer" said no - however the english translation the whole time was a little ordinary.
I think you could make these work, but I'd insist on a schematic or more detailed installation/users guide. The attached sheet is not enough.

On one hand I want a pre-manufactured unit that is bright enough. On the other hand making a digit isn't rocket science, but teadious. But it means repairs would be easy - just replace some leds. So I'm still deliberating which way to go. I'll experiment more on the weekend (at least with the 10" units I have and the blue plastic - that I'll buy).
I think your biggest hurdle is making sure the digits are big enough. Once you determine the needed size the question then becomes a) can you find a pre-made 7-segment digit in the size you need and b) if yes to a), what do you value more: having it done for you and buying the right power supplies or building your own and having more control over the power supply? For some people this is determined by cost, for others their time.

I verified 3 of the segments on the 8" digits draw higher current - brighter with same resistor. This happens on 2 of the 4 I've got. The supplier says to just to use different resistors. This is fine, but what happens one day if someone has to change the digit? They would have to balance again with different resistors - hmmmmm.
I wouldn't worry too much about the life cycle. If you were designing a product for the market, this is worthwhile concern now. Since you're doing it for your soccer team, I think you're okay as long as you document this or find better made digits. Alternately, you could keep the resistors on the board all the same and add a few to the digit itself. Anyone replacing it, assuming they're electrically-minded, will see this when they replace it, although adding a note made with a Sharpie would be good too. Just a thought.

Bill, check out Tap Plastics. They're in the NW somewhere, but they're prices and selection are fairly good and I've done a lot of looking. I had one place locally that sold colored acrylic, but they went out of business and I haven't located another one here either.
 

Thread Starter

chrischrischris

Joined Feb 18, 2012
313
Thank elec_mech.

Good point on the night clocks being red, but yes, if they were blue, we would have the coolest board around:)

More schematics on the gas station price led signs - I was thinking exactly the same today. I'll ask.

Today I've printed out in B&W a 10", 12", 16" and 20" of a single digit. I'll bring it to the soccer ground and check it out. If I can make it out from a distance, then it's just intensity and blue cover acrylic I'll need to consider (well at least with the 10").

Extra resistors on the digit - what a great idea.
 

Wendy

Joined Mar 24, 2008
23,408
I think you will find blue works just fine. The thing about red LEDs, is they don't involve all the cones (the color sensors) of the eyes, at least that is my take.

Did you see the digits on my plans? They were 1 foot tall, and could easily be scaled up. My concept was to drill holes in plywood (which was painted after the holes were drilled), then press fit high intensity LEDs into the wood. The plastic over the LEDs would tend to disperse the light, which would be needed.

If you are interested in persuing this let me know. Once you have the LED drivers it is easy.
 

Wendy

Joined Mar 24, 2008
23,408
Chris, what size digits do you need. I have some ideas I would like to run by you if you are interested. I was thinking about them on my way home from work.
 

Thread Starter

chrischrischris

Joined Feb 18, 2012
313
Hi Bill.
I've printed up 8", 10", 12", 16" and 20" in B&W. I was going to bring it to the soccer ground tomorrow morning to see which suits. My gut feeling at this moment is 16" is the best, however I might get away with 12". I've been shopping around.

1. "Betlux" large digits: http://www.betlux.com/product/LED_seven_segment_display/big_segment_LED_display/BL-SE1600A.PDF
I was given the spec sheet last night. 30 day lead time for ordering. Have asked to verify peak voltage and current because I can't work it out from the spec sheet. Also the mcd. I believe what I need is between 4000 and 5000. The supplier however had said red, orange and green is suitable in the sun. Waiting on price.

2. Shenzhen Yuhong Electronics Co.,Ltd
http://yuhongled.en.alibaba.com/product/301004375-50368379/16_Outdoor_Seven_Segment_LED_Display_for_LED_Scoreboard_and_LED_Price_Display.html?edm_src=sys&edm_type=fdbk&edm_grp=0&edm_cta=read_msg&edm_time=realtime&edm_ver=e
This unit was gauranteed to be bright enough for outdoors. Specifically for scoreboards, etc. Costs around $85USD per unit. Bit high.

3. Same company - another sales man sent me a spec sheet for a digit he also said would be bright enough. I think the price was around $30.

I priced yesterday an 8' x 4' piece of black 3mm acrylic - $110AUS. Probably double the size of sheet I need. This could be laser cut (dots only for the led wires to poke through). The "dividers" could be also laser cut, but this might end up costing too much, so maybe just a cover. This would would cost around $150 per 8'x4' (polycarbonate - for when they kick the ball into the sign). LEDs - either staw hat or flat top seem best. They have about 110° viewing angle. However, the cost of all this may end up costing close to buying the units.

I did string up two old laptop power supplies last night (19.5V, 6.9A) and connected 11 leds in series (4 sets in parallel) with resistors. Looked ok. I'll string up a 12" digit to see how it looks tomorrow. But I'm still bending towards bought units if I can find them.

One other thing I didn't consider yet, i dimming the lights at night - otherwise I'll probably blind everyone. Not sure how to do that yet. Can I address the anode of each segment with a resistor via a light sensor?

So digit size that would be "prefered" is 16". Still got to check if 12" however ok for temperature and time. But have to weight this also against stocking different sizes and different voltages, etc. More than happy for any suggestions.
 
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elec_mech

Joined Nov 12, 2008
1,500
I've printed up 8", 10", 12", 16" and 20" in B&W. I was going to bring it to the soccer ground tomorrow morning to see which suits. My gut feeling at this moment is 16" is the best, however I might get away with 12".
Answering this question is the most important in terms of finding an economical solution. Let us know what you determine.

1. "Betlux" large digits: http://www.betlux.com/product/LED_se...BL-SE1600A.PDF
I was given the spec sheet last night. 30 day lead time for ordering. Have asked to verify peak voltage and current because I can't work it out from the spec sheet. Also the mcd. I believe what I need is between 4000 and 5000. The supplier however had said red, orange and green is suitable in the sun. Waiting on price.
Huh, if I read the spec sheet these have diffused lens and the mcd rating is under 300mcd (common for diffused LEDs). Based on the number of LEDs per segments and size, this could work well for night time, but I'd be leary of daytime. I haven't experimented with something like this before. If you decide to give these guys serious consideration, ask them if they'll send you one digit as a sample or at least a sample at a reduced price so you can try before you buy.

I priced yesterday an 8' x 4' piece of black 3mm acrylic - $110AUS. Probably double the size of sheet I need. This could be laser cut (dots only for the led wires to poke through). The "dividers" could be also laser cut, but this might end up costing too much, so maybe just a cover. This would would cost around $150 per 8'x4' (polycarbonate - for when they kick the ball into the sign). LEDs - either staw hat or flat top seem best. They have about 110° viewing angle. However, the cost of all this may end up costing close to buying the units.
Be really careful with acrylic. It's fragile and cracks real easy, especially if you decide to drill it yourself. I'd suggest PVC. Bill's suggest for plywood is a good one too, probably the cheapest. You just need to make sure it won't be exposed to the elements, specifically rain.

If you could find a transparent polycarbonate in the color you need for the filter you'd hit two birds with one stone.

What is a straw hat LED? Be careful around flat top LEDs. Yes, they claim 110 degree viewing angle, but usually comes out as a pinpick. Also note that with two LEDs having the same mcd rating, the one with the smaller angle with always appear much brighter.

You might consider making your own displays with pre-made strips of LEDs similar to this: http://www.ledshoppe.com/ledstrip.htm. A lot less work if you decide to make your own. Not sure if this would be cheaper than pre-made.

One other thing I didn't consider yet, i dimming the lights at night - otherwise I'll probably blind everyone. Not sure how to do that yet. Can I address the anode of each segment with a resistor via a light sensor?
Hmm, I'll leave that one to Bill. My gut tells me that wouldn't be the best idea as the resistor would need to be big wattage-wise, but I'll leave it to the expert. Not knowing any better, I'd suggest using two ULN2003's, each with their own set of resistors, one for day and one for night and use a MOSFET to enable and disengage pin 8 of each.
 

Wendy

Joined Mar 24, 2008
23,408
My thought is it is possible, practical even, to make the displays from scratch, I will draw my concept up and let you take a look. It is not hard.
 

Wendy

Joined Mar 24, 2008
23,408
Here is my concept. If you copy and paste this to a gif file on your hard disk, and then open it with "Windows Picture and Fax" viewer (the XP default) and print it out using that it will be a very professional looking print.

It will require some circuitry, which I will also draw up on later pages.

Advantages:

  • It is modular, it can be exchanged with other units, good for maintenance. Quick install, quick removal.
  • Should be highly visible, though I have never built this.
  • Low current, I'm guessing around ¼A per display, max.
Disadvantages:

  • Large numbers of LEDs, which could be expensive.
  • A bit complicated.
It will use 7 transistor, and a handful of resistors and diodes.

If you are interesting in the concept I will finish drawing, and plan it around 24VDC. Actually I'll finish it anyhow, you can use it or not, as you please, but I will make changes on request. I'll need the LED specs, among other things.

Since the print is a full size sheet of paper, I will leave it as an attachment. I just realized I left a few things out, so I'll be updating it in a bit.
 

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elec_mech

Joined Nov 12, 2008
1,500
I agree with Bill - if I were doing this, I'd make my own. I do think the LED strips would save a lot of wiring and time if they're bright enough.

Bill, I notice your segments seem to share LEDs in the corners which will add complexity to the drive circuit. If I may offer a suggestion, I've put together a quick layout showing how you can rearrange the LEDs so that each segment has its own set of LEDs. I added lines showing the segment divisions. I can figure out the spacing and ammend this with a scale if you'd like.
 

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Wendy

Joined Mar 24, 2008
23,408
It was deliberate, I think mine looks better. Simple diodes will handle current steering, though it will require more current. The transistor requirements will be the same either way.

Something I always like to do, is to show the segments as I have on my drawing to see what they will actually look like. I will go through your concept and show the digits.

The reason I did it my way is constant height, as well as smooth lines on the numbers. Since we are making these from scratch we are not limited to the classic patterns. The current balances in yours are better, but overall the complexity is not that much different, except for around 12 or so power diodes. Your concept is simpler, but the quantity of LEDs is about the same. The differences in panel sizes is to scale.



I was thinking in terms of a 9 pin D connector for quick connection. 4 screws and 1 simple connector, though there may need to be a power connector due to the currents, I haven't calculated those yet.

****************

Going through this exercise I realized my numbers were off a bit, so I will redraw the print (up to Rev. A already).

If Chris wants to use your layout it is no big deal, I'll design around it instead. I am allowing for 1½" around the digits on both for the panels (this is what was off).

I'll wait for feedback from Chris to redraw the Rev. A print.
 

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elec_mech

Joined Nov 12, 2008
1,500
Hey Bill,

I agree, your digits look a lot smoother and it's those little details that can really make the end result shine if you'll forgive the pun. I was only concerned with the complexity involved in using the same LED for more than one segment, but didn't realize you already had a plan for that. I'm always learning something new here which I enjoy immensely. :D

If Chris decides to go down another path, I'd still love to see the driving circuit you had in mind, especially with regards to driving the same LED with two or three inputs. I'm sure I'll use it at some point. Your layout opens a whole new world to me. I never would have thought to try it.

The DB9 connector would simplify and speed up connecting and enable troubleshooting. I'm working on a much smaller, but similar project and plan to use ribbon cable with clamp on connectors and double-row headers, one of which will be missing to make sure the connector is connected in the proper orientation. Regarding current for the DB9 - if it is too much, you might get away with a DB15 or DB25 to share the current across multiple pins and wires.
 

Wendy

Joined Mar 24, 2008
23,408
An instructor at my college taught skull sweat is cheaper than parts. Over planning at this stage can save a lot of money later.

If Chris is open to a bit more complexity there are some constant current sources I could design in, but my tag line says my core philosophy. The only reason I think they would be preferred is they would standardize the resistors to standard values, keep the resistors wattage small (the transistors or ICs will need heatsinking), and help eliminate variations in LED brightness.

There is a chance Chris won't like any of it, that is OK too. These are just proposals.

I like the DB15 idea, it would work well and eliminate the need for a separate power wire. You could also use the standard MOLEX computer connector for power too, it would be reasonably cheap and easy to get.

I will attach a drawing in a bit to show you how to light a LED from several inputs, it is really simple overall. The concept is around steering diodes. I long while back I picked up a lifetime supply of 1N4007 diodes for a $1, it was a full reel from an estate sale. Needless to say, I use these for everything. Any 1N400X series will work well, and well as many other kinds of diodes.



Chris, if you want some of the diodes just let me know (PM me your snail mail address).
 

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Thread Starter

chrischrischris

Joined Feb 18, 2012
313
Hi Bill / elec_mech.

Thanks for all the input above.
Just a run down on progress. Yesterday/today I built a 12" digit using a variety of LEDs and a box to see how it would look during the day and night time. Details:
12 inch led digit.jpg,Digit 4 of 4.JPG, Digit 3 of 4.JPG, Digit 2 of 4.JPG, Digit 1 of 4.JPG

I drew the digit in CAD, printed out and stuck it on the surface with tape. Then I drew one segment showing where all the leds were to go and using it as a template made 2 pin pricks with a thick pin (for the led cathodes and anodes). This meant no drilling holes for the led - surface mounted seemed easier. Using 2 laptop ac adapters (sum of 38V), I calculated that I could have between 11 and 12 leds in series. One segment has 3 strings of leds in parallel (each string with it's own dedicated limiting resistor).

The leds at the top were "flat top" blue 6000mcd. The next segment, green 14,000 mcd. Next was white 16,000mcd. The other 2 were 20,000mcd. Why, because that's all I bought from ebay a while back. The blue I ran at only 22mA per string. The rest being so strong I ran between 8mA and 12mA (all via different value resistors). Note, the flat top leds are good because they have about a 110° viewing angle.

Again it was raining! So I tested it anyway (no direct sunlight). The green seemed to be the best, but without re-adjusting resistor values / brightness - hard to say. At night, the white just blew my eyes off, the blue looked ok and the green up close looked good, but further away seemed to all blur a bit. I actually think they were all too strong. The gas station prices (red leds) I think dim right down at night - that might be what makes them "clear" to see. Is there a way I can use a variable resistor to dim them to test?

Size. I printed out the 10", 12", 16" and 20" B&W's and stuck them up on the soccer pitch fence. Everyone pointed to the 20" units as their preference. Damn!!! I think the 16" was still "acceptable" but yes, from 50 metres away starting to get a little small. However, once these are lite up with lights, they might be easier to read.

Bill, the diode circuit for shared diodes - great idea. I was wondering earlier myself if it was possible. Never thought of diodes. I bought a 100 odd diodes from ebay some time back (they were so cheap) - so no problems for supplies. As for the DB9, I already ordered 14 core multi ribbon cable and 10 and 14 pin shrouded headed IDC socket connectors and headers for attaching the cables (for a quick replacement) - for PCB and digits. It means tearing the cable down the centre for 7 core (for each digit) - less power supply to the common (needs separate wire).

Construction of digits. Now that I've proven that 12" is just too small, the idea I had in the back of my mind of building circuit boards to save wiring time is out the window. 20" is just a bit big! I have 15 digits to build. I could build them on a plastic board (as I think ply after a while might warp), and I could get the 2 pin holes easily laser cut. Apart from the wiring (unless I used led strips), it's all guess work for the intensities - that's my biggest hurdle right now.

I think (and the soccer committee seems to agree), that I should buy a gas station digit (maybe 16" and 20") - red safest color and then take it from there. I can then see exactly how they are made and reproduce it if need be. If not, they said I should bite the bullet and purchase them.

I really do however need to work out how to adjust the intensity of the leds during the day/night. Gas signs have around 7 or 8 automatic adjustments. Bill, have you any idea how I can do this.

PS. I'll attach a mock up of sign (size 16" x 8") using 20" and 16" digits:
View attachment Sign_option 03.pdf

Bill, just one other thought. I agree that standards resistors is the way to go. I do however like the previous note suggesting to add "extra" balancing resistors to the digit board. But from experience now, I've found my leds are a bit all over the place. When using the same resistor, they can vary from 23mA to 30mA. So I found I started measuring them all and "grouping" them into similar grades.
 
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Wendy

Joined Mar 24, 2008
23,408
It is more than possible (even easy) to use a RDS (AKA, electric eye, photocell) to automatically dim the lights down.

You are talking getting the hardware off the shelf, this is always a good solution, it is usually cheaper, more tested, and reliable. You might see if they have the dimmer option too.

If not show me what you have in the way of circuitry when you have it figured out, and I'll show you an easy modification.

I would like the information as to where you are getting the parts, especially part numbers and specs. It won't apply for me (Oz is fair distance away), but it is not wasted research.

Since I had done something similar in laying out my plans I have a definite interest in the project (does it show? :D) . I've been pretty impressed with your work to date, and would like to see it when you finish. I would really like if you would consider documenting it as a writeup in the Completed Projects forum.

Someone just came out with a PIC project that could have been easily adapted towards yours. I am not suggesting you change anything, you are about 70% done at this point. But I thought you might be interested.

PIC16F1828 4-Digit 99 Minute Timer

It would have been nice to have when you were starting this, wouldn't it? I have added the 4510 chip to my PaintCAD, I am going to buy some for myself, neat chippie.

I would also like to find that remote module you have. I still think you should think about adding a manual panel in back of the board (under a locked panel of course), it could be a great help, even a lifesaver, someday. Adding the possibility for a wired remote is also a possible really good idea. It could be an alternate for the panel idea.

If I do write a set of articles for modular parts for a scoreboard, do I have your permission to use your name in it? Any newspaper links are nice too for yours.

Anything I can help with just ask.
 
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elec_mech

Joined Nov 12, 2008
1,500
Construction of digits. Now that I've proven that 12" is just too small, the idea I had in the back of my mind of building circuit boards to save wiring time is out the window. 20" is just a bit big!
A compromise would be to make an identical PCB for each segment with mounting holes, then mount them to a cheap board. This would save time and money and allow you to pick the LEDs you want.

I've been pretty impressed with your work to date, and would like to see it when you finish. I would really like if you would consider documenting it as a writeup in the Completed Projects forum.
Ditto.
 
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