Read the data sheet carefully. You have an Omron D3V series switch. Your model D3V-11G6M-1C25-K is only rated at 3 Amps, that is what the 11 is all about in the part number (11: 11 (3) A at 250 VAC). Read the data sheet and see how the actual switch part number is built. While only rated at 3 amps AC switches like this can handle a few hundred mA DC but that is as good as it gets and especially working an inductive load. Within a few operations the contacts will have arced enough and fuse themselves together all toasted. The max shown in the data sheet is 11 amps and again AC. Finally if we get into the data sheet ratings:
D3V-11 250 VAC 11 A 1.5 A 6 A 2 A
The 6A is the inductive rating and the 2A is the motor load.
Finally we see Minimum applicable load 160 mA at 5 VDC
Anyway, the bottom line is that switch won't work the way you want it to.

As to Omron? Look at their D4MC Series of switches. These are what I would have used or similar in my original circuit. When we start looking at motor loads like the one you have switching DC current using a switch just isn't good design practice. This is likely why todays automotive is loaded with relays. Hell, my truck and my wife's truck have no less that 3 relay panels.

Ron

 

OK - back to the drawing board (or should I say, your Diagram).
It all appears so simple at onset
I have purchased 2 plug in mechanical auto relays which should very well be able to handle the 2 SPDT arrangement you have drawn, I will have to make it more clear to myself in the morning.
Tally Ho until then -

as always, TY!

Rainer

 

What a good nights sleep can do! Lots of thinking about electronics
Just to make sure, is this a correct alternate way of presenting your schematic? I just want to double check:
(graphic changes made ONLY to the area of relay contacts 30,87,87A)

 

That's fine.

Now on a side note I figure you will have the micro-controller monitor daylight and darkness and make the decisions as to opening and closing (raise and lower) the door. If you ever actually build one of these things or similar motor reverse project I would consider a nice modular MOSFET type H-Bridge.

Ron

 

Hey Ron,

you actually mean we are getting somewhere? Maybe I'm getting parts of this?
Thanks for hanging in there with me
No, I really do not want it to be daylight dependent. In the summer that is fine, but in the winter it all depends on 'how weather looks'.
The MC (WebControl 8.0) is already installed in the Coop to handle temperature type 'things' and could handle raising door temp/ time/ or daylight appropriate, but I don't think I will. I am more worried about having control when not at home so the neighbor doesn't have much to worry about.
That being said, I have seen the term MOFSET being tossed around and will have to check on that once I have this working.
I will order more SPDT relays, though, as I am sure I will do more 'like' projects.

so far 16 inches of snow - not much else other than snow happening today.

Rainer

 

About the same here as to snow which finally tapered off. Went out and cleaned three trucks off. Snow yesterday then last night freezing rain and some rain which went back to snow. Three ice encrusted trucks with over a foot of snow on them. Got that done and my neighbor was over and plowed everything. We always swap favors and do for each other so he always plows us, real nice on that note. Went from around freezing last night to about 11 this morning. Gawd I hate NE Ohio. We need to sell and move south.

Ron

 

LOOOONG driveway - going out for the 3rd time.

OK - quick very silly question:
I am still waiting on my circuit boards - once they arrive, I should be ready to install components.
My question: since I obviously do not have printed boards, I imagine I make connections on the undersigned of the board with something like 22g wire, yes? (insulated wire).

Rainer

 

Yes, AWG 20 - 22 is fine for the light wiring like transistors and limit switches. The actual relay contacts and motor connections should be around AWG 12 if I recall the motor current correctly. Any wires that handle the motor current should be AWG 12 and any control wiring AWG 20 - 22 is fine. Make sure, absolutely sure, the transistors are wired correctly. The data sheets show the pin outs. Also, for the automotive relays most automotive stores sell the matching sockets with some wires attached or just use spade lugs, they should be 1/4" I think.

Ron

 

TY Ron,

stay warm and dry,

Rainer

 

OK - just a little worried that I did not read the spec sheat correctly;
purchased SPDT relays, these will handle the motor power, yes?
DatasheetsORWH Series Datasheet
1461069 Drawing
Product Photos1461069-5
3D Model1461069-5.pdf
Standard Package 50
Category
Relays
Family
Power Relays, Over 2 Amps
SeriesORWH, OEG
Packaging Tube
Relay TypeGeneral Purpose
Coil TypeNon Latching
Coil Current30mA
Coil Voltage12VDC
Contact FormSPDT (1 Form C)
Contact Rating (Current)10A
Switching Voltage277VAC, 28VDC - Max
Turn On Voltage (Max)8.4 VDC
Turn Off Voltage (Min)1.2 VDC
Operate Time10ms
Release Time5ms
FeaturesInsulation - Class A, Sealed - Fully
Mounting TypeThrough Hole
Termination StylePC Pin
Contact MaterialSilver Cadmium Oxide (AgCdO)
Coil Power360 mW
Coil Resistance400 Ohms
Operating Temperature-30°C ~ 70°C
Online CatalogORWH, OEG
Other Names14610695
ORWH-SH-112D,N000
PB1321

 

Contact Rating (Current)10A
Switching Voltage277VAC, 28VDC - Max

Do we know what the max motor current will be? I was going with the automotive relays because they can handle 30 to 40 Amps easily which I figured would leave some overhead. You really don't want to run a 10 Amp motor on 10 Amp relay contacts. Long as the motor current is below 8 Amps those relays you ordered should be fine and then too, the service will be intermittent. I just don't know what the motor current will be when it's working (under some load).

Ron

 

The motor shut off is 10A, so that should be fine, yes?
I went to both automotive stores in our area and neither had SP, only DPDT
I will go with these. TY again!
Rainer

 

Yeah, we'll see how it goes. Make sure you fuse this thing for 10 Amps. I know I mentioned back there somewhere that even though I didn't show a fuse in the drawing you want things fused.

Ron

 

Good point - I did actually get a 12VDC Flat fuse with automotive type holder while looking for relays the other day.

 

Keep me up on all of this and as your parts come in.

Ron

 

Will do - there should be time this weekend unless we get another snow avelange!
Thanks for all your Help!
Rainer

 

Question:
In the diagram listed on ? page 2, the Flyback diode D1 and D2 are placed post Relay Coil to negative circuit past the two limiting switches. Is that done on purpose or could the diodes simply bridge the coils before the limiting switches? More curious than anything else

 

Answer:

Yeah, the diode should just bridge the coil. My bad on that.

Ron

 

Thank you, kind sir!
Got the relays, must say: cheap from Digi-Key!
Now comes the test of my soldering and comprehending.
WIll let you know, Rainer

 

Question:

the relays that I purchased, noted in #60, state they have the following connection type:
Mounting TypeThrough Hole
Termination StylePC Pin

Now that I have received them, the neither fit into my Universal Circuit boards nor the solderless bread boards. I have bent one enough where it makes contact with the through hole but certainly can''t be pushed through
Do they need a special base to sit into or do they need a home made board with home made through holes?

Rainer