Cold Cathode Brightness

Discussion in 'General Electronics Chat' started by Elahrairah, May 11, 2007.

  1. Elahrairah

    Thread Starter New Member

    May 11, 2007
    3
    0
    Hello all,

    I have a question, and this looks like the best place to be.

    I rigged a cold cathode light to my aquarium (blue) to create a moonlight.

    I got the idea from this website:

    http://www.cichlid-forum.com/articles/diy_moonlight.php

    (Sorry if linking breaks the rules)

    So, I tried it out, using the following types of DC adapters:

    12V 1A = way too bright
    15V 600mA = way too bright
    6V 600mA = almost there, but a bit too dim
    4.8V 450mA = way too dim

    So, the question is: Which is more important for increasing brightness, voltage or amperage?

    I am thinking that voltage plays a bigger part, and if I buy a 9V 500mA, it will be good....what do you think?

    Thanks in advance for the help.
     
  2. recca02

    Senior Member

    Apr 2, 2007
    1,211
    0
    according to me, the current ratings are the max current that adapter can output under short circuit condition.
    your ckt will draw current based on the voltage applied to it.
     
  3. thingmaker3

    Retired Moderator

    May 16, 2005
    5,072
    6
    Ohm's Law says Voltage = impedence times current. Using algebra, current equals Voltage divided by impedence.

    Based on the chart in the article and on your own experience, I suggest either a 9V wall-wart capable of sourcing not less than 600mA.
     
  4. nomurphy

    AAC Fanatic!

    Aug 8, 2005
    567
    12
    Isn't it interesting, that the very DIY article you reference says the following:

    "...decided to go with the 9V, 1A adaptor because the light output was pretty close to what I was looking for, and I was tired of cutting up AC adaptors at that point."
     
  5. Elahrairah

    Thread Starter New Member

    May 11, 2007
    3
    0
    LOL,

    Yeah, I saw that, the problem is, I don't have one at my disposal, I can get a 9V, but it will be 500mA....I can get 1000mA, but I have to choose 6V, 12v (I already know is not good) or 15V (have a feeling it won't be good), hence the question....
     
  6. thingmaker3

    Retired Moderator

    May 16, 2005
    5,072
    6
    Do you have any numbers on your inverter? Does it say anything about volts, or watts, or milliamps?
     
  7. mrmeval

    Distinguished Member

    Jun 30, 2006
    833
    2
    The best dimming is PWM. Crude control is done by varying the voltage. You can do this with a potentiometer and a LM317T. You may need a more robust part depending on current needs. The inverter used may or may not be compatible with either form of dimming.
    http://www.stek-inc.com/PDF/ccflcontrol.pdf
     
  8. cumesoftware

    Senior Member

    Apr 27, 2007
    1,330
    10
    I would sugest the use of a LM7809. Those are shortable. So, you would use a 12V adapter, a 0.33microF (25V or more) capacitor between the input and groud terminal and a 0.1microF (16V or more) capacitor between the output and ground terminal.

    Refer to: http://www.fairchildsemi.com/ds/LM/LM7809.pdf

    Also, you should check you adapter for ripple. If ripple is a problem, you may need to replace the 0.33microF capacitor by a bigger one (more than 100microF electrolytic, 25V nominal or more).
     
  9. mozikluv

    AAC Fanatic!

    Jan 22, 2004
    1,437
    1
    i concur to the suggestion of "mrmeval" for PWM however it would depend on your capability to implement such a project. if you opt for a pot and LM317, i suggest you only get the T-220 package not the TO-3

    the suggestion of "cumesoftware" is also good, it simplifies everything.

    almost forgot, use a 12v 1A for both suggestions:)

    moz
     
  10. Elahrairah

    Thread Starter New Member

    May 11, 2007
    3
    0
    Thanks for all the help everybody.

    Update:

    I couldn't go with any of the more difficult projects because I have no electrical skill, however, I wanted to test the theroy.

    So I got a 6V 1A and 9V 500mA and compared them to all the others.

    My conclusion is that voltage plays a bigger role than amperage. Of course, if I wanted to splice two more tubes onto the circuit, I may see a difference.

    12V 1A = way too bright
    15V 600mA = way too bright
    6V 600mA = almost there, but a bit too dim
    4.8V 450mA = way too dim
    6V 1A = almost there (not much different than 6V 600mA)
    9V 500mA = if anythig a bit too bright, but I will stick with it (until I fall across a 7V or 8V to try..)
     
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