coil
- Thread starter Robert123
- Start date
That is in regards to the display on a Dick Smith flyback tester.
If you do not have a Dick Smith flyback tester, or do not know what one is, you would not know what the 3-4 bars reference was about.
The Dick Smith flyback tester is called that because it used to be available from Dick Smith electronics. They discontinued it in 2007.
It was designed by Bob Parker. You can find out more about the tester on Bob Parker's page, including the entire project schematics, and a newer version:
http://members.ozemail.com.au/~bobpar/fbt.htm
If you do not have a Dick Smith flyback tester, or do not know what one is, you would not know what the 3-4 bars reference was about.
The Dick Smith flyback tester is called that because it used to be available from Dick Smith electronics. They discontinued it in 2007.
It was designed by Bob Parker. You can find out more about the tester on Bob Parker's page, including the entire project schematics, and a newer version:
http://members.ozemail.com.au/~bobpar/fbt.htm
This is an English board. Please do not right-justify your text, as it is very unnatural to English speaking people to try to read right-justified text.
If someday I can learn how to write in an Asian text, I will be certain to right-justify it.
I do not know any more about the Bob Parker device than I posted. I did not view the schematics, as I do not currently have a need for such a project.
I hope that you will find the information on Bob Parson's website useful.
If someday I can learn how to write in an Asian text, I will be certain to right-justify it.
I do not know any more about the Bob Parker device than I posted. I did not view the schematics, as I do not currently have a need for such a project.
I hope that you will find the information on Bob Parson's website useful.
I'd guess that a good coil would give a high flyback voltage when power was disconnected, while one with a shorted turn would not.
I think this relates to your TV fault in another thread?
The only way a faulty degaussing circuit would affect a TVs operation, other than shorting and causing a fuse to blow, is that the colours may not be correct.
Typically the colour will change toward one corner of the screen.
If the fuses are OK and the TV does not work at all, I think you need to look elsewhere - but remember TVs use LETHAL voltages and these may be present for minutes or hours after power is removed.
Do not mess with it unless you know what you are doing!
I think this relates to your TV fault in another thread?
The only way a faulty degaussing circuit would affect a TVs operation, other than shorting and causing a fuse to blow, is that the colours may not be correct.
Typically the colour will change toward one corner of the screen.
If the fuses are OK and the TV does not work at all, I think you need to look elsewhere - but remember TVs use LETHAL voltages and these may be present for minutes or hours after power is removed.
Do not mess with it unless you know what you are doing!
