Hi, so i have built the circuit
The problem i am now having is how to test it properly.
The push switch is set up to be normally off, using 3A.

How do i check if it works?
I think i should use an oscilloscope at the 2200 ohm resistor(replaced the initial 200ohm) to see if the current increases from the normal 0.01 to 0.4A. (the purple wire connects my circuit to the oscilloscope)

My LED didnt turn on or off. I expect my LED to start off on, the instant i push the switch it should turn off and stay off till i reset the circuit.

I have yet to include my reset button. what type of reset button should i use?

if anything is unclear and annotations are needed please let me know.

Good Lord! Couldn't you post a bigger picture?
I don't have patience for tracing a breadboard that is way bigger than my computer screen (which is big). Please post a smaller picture, both physically and in megabytes. You can post jpeg pictures. You don't need to convert them to PDF.
Are those resistors next to the LM393 shorted? How do you know that's a 393? And where is the orientation notch?

For reset, just use a NO PB switch from the reset pin to +10V, connect a 10k resistor from the reset pin to GND.

BTW, if you don't have that resistor installed, the FF may not work. Leaving CMOS inputs floating is a no-no. Even on the unused section, unused inputs must be connected to GND.
It looks like your CD4013 wiring is totally screwed up. You have no power or ground connected (see the datasheet), it looks like pin 8 goes to pin 9 (why?), and I don't know what else. Post my schematic with the pin numbers added, and we'll try to get it figured out.

 

PIN 8 AND 9 of the flip flop are connected because thats how i saw it on the schematic you posted

orientation notch is towards the push switch

i do have power!!! connected the red wire going from pin 9 to the left side of my breadboard which is going to be hooked up to a power supply of 10V

ground is on the right where the black wires are

there is also an extra set of red wires on the bottom right where i am going to supply 20V


i have annotated your schematic to follow what i did

 

PIN 8 AND 9 of the flip flop are connected because thats how i saw it on the schematic you posted

orientation notch is towards the push switch

i do have power!!! connected the red wire going from pin 9 to the left side of my breadboard which is going to be hooked up to a power supply of 10V

ground is on the right where the black wires are

there is also an extra set of red wires on the bottom right where i am going to supply 20V


i have annotated your schematic to follow what i did

Where did you get those pin numbers for the CD4013? They are wrong. Here is the datasheet.

You didn't answer this:

Are those resistors next to the LM393 shorted?

Or this:

How do you know that's a 393?

Or this:

And where is the orientation notch?

What I mean is, I can't see it. Does it have one?
If the notch is towards the switch as you said, then you have it wired backwards. It may have smoked.

Wire your CD4013 as in the datasheet, add the reset switch, or at least the pulldown resistor, and tie all unused inputs to GND.
You also need to tie either one of the unused comparator inputs to ground.

I'm not going you answer any more questions until you answer ALL the questions above.

 

Where did you get those pin numbers for the CD4013? They are wrong. Here is the datasheet.

You didn't answer this:Or this:Or this:What I mean is, I can't see it. Does it have one?
If the notch is towards the switch as you said, then you have it wired backwards. It may have smoked.

Wire your CD4013 as in the datasheet, add the reset switch, or at least the pulldown resistor, and tie all unused inputs to GND.
You also need to tie either one of the unused comparator inputs to ground.

I'm not going you answer any more questions until you answer ALL the questions above.

My connections look wrong because i used pin 8 to 14, i.e the left side of my CD4013
so my data is pin 9 Q2 and complementary Q2 are pin 13 and 12 respectively.
I did use that datasheet.


sorry the notch is away from the switch i.e the top right of the LM393 is pin 8 Vcc. Correct me if i am wrong but the orientation notch is the little square in the center of pin 1 and 8 right
https://www.google.co.uk/search?hl=en&rlz=1C1CHMO_enGB522GB522&q=orientation+notch+LM393&bav=on.2,or.r_cp.r_qf.&bvm=bv.45368065,d.bGE&biw=1366&bih=667&um=1&ie=UTF-8&tbm=isch&source=og&sa=N&tab=wi&ei=Ve5uUbrsHKOk4gSs-YGICg#um=1&hl=en&rlz=1C1CHMO_enGB522GB522&tbm=isch&sa=1&q=LM393&oq=LM393&gs_l=img.3..0l10.5107.5276.0.5644.2.2.0.0.0.0.66.100.2.2.0...0.0...1c.1.9.img.Blsur9gDimc&bav=on.2,or.r_cp.r_qf.&bvm=bv.45368065,d.d2k&fp=dc3faf319a03c35c&biw=1366&bih=667&imgrc=LSrOtmQB6kVs2M%3A%3B4mSaDcBs-9RC0M%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fwww.wvshare.com%252Fimg%252Fpinout%252FLM393_l.jpg%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fwww.wvshare.com%252Fdatasheet_html%252FLM393-PDF.html%3B491%3B364

i know thats a LM393 because it is written on the device itself


no the resistors aren't shorted i am pretty sure they aren't.

the unused inputs to be tied to ground are
d1 pin 5
vss-pin 7
clock pin 3
and set pin 6
is this correct since i am using only pin 14-8

i did connect the flip flop the wrong way round
silly me

should i also ground unused outputs??

 

I have answered all your questions.
why aren't you replying anymore

so i cleaned my circuit up
i took a close up of my circuit so the orientation notch is easy to spot

 

I have answered all your questions.
why aren't you replying anymore

so i cleaned my circuit up
i took a close up of my circuit so the orientation notch is easy to spot

I guess I forgot.

Make sure your schematic is wired as in the attachment below. You can use either comparator in the package, obviously.

Don't connect unused outputs to ground.

 

Pins 6 and 5 of the Lm393
The unsed inputs should be grounded
Thanks once again for your continuous patience with me
I am having problems connecting my reset button
the data sheet was massively unhelpful

 

Pins 6 and 5 of the Lm393
The unsed inputs should be grounded
Thanks once again for your continuous patience with me
I am having problems connecting my reset button
the data sheet was massively unhelpful

I posted a schematic that shows the reset button. What are you not understanding?

 

what confuses me is how to connect this reset button as shown in the schematic
the datasheet doesnt really explain what each leg means and so on.

 

what confuses me is how to connect this reset button as shown in the schematic
the datasheet doesnt really explain what each leg means and so on.

You have already shown that you can build a circuit from a schematic. What is different in the case of the reset switch that you don't understand?

 

You have already shown that you can build a circuit from a schematic. What is different in the case of the reset switch that you don't understand?

the reset button has 4 legs
the datasheet doesn't show what each leg means.
i know one leg is to be connected to a 10V supply and 1 leg to ground
however do i ground the other 2 unused legs.
That is what i did
just wanted to confirm because the datasheet didnt make it clear

 

the reset button has 4 legs
the datasheet doesn't show what each leg means.
i know one leg is to be connected to a 10V supply and 1 leg to ground
however do i ground the other 2 unused legs.
That is what i did
just wanted to confirm because the datasheet didnt make it clear

If you know which two pins are the NO switch contacts, the others don't matter. To be safe, leave them disconnected.

 

Lastly this is the datasheet provided
please tell me its ok that i am confused
http://www.farnell.com/datasheets/1679714.pdf

 

Hello,

The PDF provided is a complete catalog.
Wich type of switches do you have?

Bertus

 

http://uk.farnell.com/multimec/5eth...rch=Featured New Products&MER=i-9b10-00001144

this one.

 

Hello,

There are two sets of pins connected to eachother.
Between these sets there is the switch.

From the catalog:

Bertus

 

Hello,

Looking at the drawing I posted, 1 and 2 are connected and 3 and 4 are connected.
Between these pairs there is the switch.
So 1 or 2 are the one side of the switch and 3 or 4 are the other side of the switch.

Bertus

 

Bertus has provided the information you need.
I just want to add that, if you have any mechanical switch, and no datasheet, you can use an ohmmeter to figure out how the internal switch is connected to the pins.

 

hi, i wanted to know does the Mosfet absorb energy during the fault condition if so
how does it go about doing that?
I read a few papers about avalanche operation but it simply doesnt make sense to me

hi, again
i just realised the circuit we have been doing is actually only a mosfet switch
its not a hybrid between a mechanical breaker and a mosfet which is what i was trying to do.

The switch in series with the 5 ohm simply causes the fault condition, i think another switch needs to be connected either in series or in parallel with the mosfet to make it a hybrid switch

 

You were told that, both in your original thread, that was closed, and earlier in this thread!