Circuit breaker style please ?

Thread Starter

Externet

Joined Nov 29, 2005
2,220
Hello.
My plain 200A residential circuit breaker panel, with nothing out of the ordinary needs a dual 80 Amperes breaker added for load use.

Seen on market GE models THQL2180 and THQB2180 but cannot discern which plugs in just like any other dual breaker, or what do these differ.
It is not meant to be mounted by screwing-in, just 'hinge in' and grab the contact rails.

Do you know details ?
----> http://www.homedepot.com/p/GE-Q-Line-80-Amp-2-in-Double-Pole-Circuit-Breaker-THQL2180P/100170261
----> http://www.rockford-industrial.com/...-ge-thqb-circuit-breaker-2P-80A-THQB2180.HTML

(Unable to find pictures of their rears to compare)
 

MrAl

Joined Jun 17, 2014
11,480
Hello.
My plain 200A residential circuit breaker panel, with nothing out of the ordinary needs a dual 80 Amperes breaker added for load use.

Seen on market GE models THQL2180 and THQB2180 but cannot discern which plugs in just like any other dual breaker, or what do these differ.
It is not meant to be mounted by screwing-in, just 'hinge in' and grab the contact rails.

Do you know details ?
----> http://www.homedepot.com/p/GE-Q-Line-80-Amp-2-in-Double-Pole-Circuit-Breaker-THQL2180P/100170261
----> http://www.rockford-industrial.com/...-ge-thqb-circuit-breaker-2P-80A-THQB2180.HTML

(Unable to find pictures of their rears to compare)
Hi,

With the way you worded it, i didnt think circuit breakers would pose for such lewd pictures :)

Maybe you could take a few pictures of your existing box where they connect, and possibly the back of one of your existing breakers. That might help narrow it down.

If you could find the same model on another site they might have better pics.

I dont know if this might help:
http://www.homedepot.com/b/Electrical-Power-Distribution-Circuit-Breakers/N-5yc1vZbm16
 

#12

Joined Nov 30, 2010
18,224
In my experience, the most important thing is the Brand Name. If you have a GE breaker box, the problem is not obvious to me.
 

#12

Joined Nov 30, 2010
18,224
I've never seen a GE breaker with screws like that, but I've never run a branch circuit over 60 amps. (Something about most economical use of wire size and kilowatts per furnace.) I fear the screw type is intended to be the "main" breaker in something like a 12 position sub-panel, not a plug-in to a 200 amp mains box.
 

jimmybee67

Joined Oct 26, 2016
7
Hello.
My plain 200A residential circuit breaker panel, with nothing out of the ordinary needs a dual 80 Amperes breaker added for load use.

Seen on market GE models THQL2180 and THQB2180 but cannot discern which plugs in just like any other dual breaker, or what do these differ.
It is not meant to be mounted by screwing-in, just 'hinge in' and grab the contact rails.

Do you know details ?
----> http://www.homedepot.com/p/GE-Q-Line-80-Amp-2-in-Double-Pole-Circuit-Breaker-THQL2180P/100170261
----> http://www.rockford-industrial.com/...-ge-thqb-circuit-breaker-2P-80A-THQB2180.HTML

(Unable to find pictures of their rears to compare)
 

jimmybee67

Joined Oct 26, 2016
7
I've been a master electrician/inspector 32 years. I was hurt pretty bad so all I do is teach now, but my main objective right now is RF electronics etc so I have a little head start. I answer line power questions all the time for people if I can. The other fellas said it right, and that is your question doesn't tell us much, if you live in the states, and this is a residential 200 amp 120/240V 40 - circuit GE panel, if you have enough room just pop the 80 amp breaker in, it should just snap right in. (I advise turning your main off unless your proficient at changing large circuit breakers. Many people think you add all the breakers up and that's it but that's not how it's done. What matters is the load that your connecting to your panel isn't too high for the 200 amp main, (we use a complicated calculation but you can put an amp-probe on the phases to see what they are drawing. The most important issue is that the load your connecting isn't going to cause the 200 to get warm or hot, or worse, trip out! Without more info on what your doing I hope this helps, and by all means turn off the main or have the power company pull the meter. As far as bolt in circuit breakers, they usually start being used in commercial / industrial and that's due to air quality, faster corrosion which cause serious problems. Let me know if this helps, as I will need help on my wonderful world of Radio Waves :eek: All my best....... Jim B
 

Thread Starter

Externet

Joined Nov 29, 2005
2,220
Thanks for your suggestions, Jim.

Yes, now I know for sure it is a GE-40 box, pristine, unmolested 20 years since new, and feel confident on installing large breakers.
Am adding a 14KW electric furnace air handler and shut off gas service for the original gas furnace. Something that pisses me off is the HVAC ducts in the dirt basement on this well built newer house are not insulated. That will be soon to tackle.

I do understand the sum of breaker Amperes value is not the main breaker value; but to consider the current being consumed limit. Without your complex formula; I go by 'educated smell'. Breakers are to protect the wiring, not to dosify current.

Welcome to radiowaves. Several of us are licensed amateur operators.
 

tcmtech

Joined Nov 4, 2013
2,867
If you look closely at the buss bars in your breaker panel on the tabs that the breakers grab on to you will either see them as either being all flat on the sides or with a small point sticking out to the side of the buss bar tab the circuit breaker body sits on.

There is one type of breaker that fits both and one that will only fit if that stupid tab is cut off.

The tab is part of some stupid proprietary design so that the lower cost older and far more commonly used breakers of identical base design won't fit in those panels.

Every panel I have ever worked on or installed that had those tabs got them taken off to eliminate that breaker compatibility problem. :mad:
 
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