Buy what r!f@@?

 

Tht 3D thingy..!

 

This was from the article, I was confusing a mnf license with a registration license.

The law won
But is any of this even legal? From the 1934 National Firearms Act to the 1968 Gun Control Act (PDF) and a variety of other laws, the federal government has all kinds of regulations pertaining to firearm manufacturing and possession. And those laws supply only the minimum standard. Layer state and local laws on top of those, and the legal obligations for the would-be home gunsmiths become rather burdensome.

From a federal point of view, you have three primary legal considerations before you hit print.

If you aim to sell your services as a gunsmith (e.g., "I charge $50 an hour to make a gun") or you intend to sell the weapon once you've made it (e.g., "I charge $500 for this particular gun"), you need to obtain a federal manufacturer's license. If the weapon is for personal use, no manufacturing license is required.

You then need to consider the kind of weapon you intend to make. Crafting a Title I class weapon at home -- a long-barreled semi-automatic or single-action rifle, a long-barreled shotgun, or a traditional pistol or a revolver as defined by the Gun Control Act -- generally requires no preliminary paperwork. You may still need to register the weapon once you've made it (depending on state and local laws), but, federally speaking, you're free to engage in the act of making it without any prior permission. The problem is that using a consumer-grade 3D printer to make a functional firearm that meets the specifications of a Title I weapon would be extremely difficult, not to mention impractical, for the reasons outlined above.

Instead, any successful design would most likely be considered a Title II-class weapon as defined by the National Firearms Act, specifically one that fits the "Any Other Weapon" category.

 

Tht 3D thingy..!

A while ago I mentioned Maker Space.They have quite a few interesting toys, er, tools. Their 3D printer is kept busy making parts for other 3D printers.

This would be a separate thread worth pursuing IMO. A lot of old inkjet printers are used to make personal 3D printers.

 

This would be a separate thread worth pursuing IMO. A lot of old inkjet printers are used to make personal 3D printers.

inkjet printer....hmmmm... what if you could convert a printer into printing a "plastic" circuit onto a pcb for etching? with a custom nozzle for an extruder, I'm sure you could manage to print some very fine traces.....

 

Tht 3D thingy..!

The rostock Delta 3D printer I believe is pretty much still a prototype in Beta testing stage, there are others (Check out the RepRap WiKi) that you could build then print other machines for your friends, etc.

You could also get a less "cool" one (not a Delta) for around $600.00 from Solidoodle...


Almost all of the DIY or "off the shelf" 3D printers I have seen are all based on the original RepRap, the Darwin,which was the first open source 3D printer... even the Rostock is still using the RepRap motor drivers and controllers, they just modified the firmware to suit their needs...

If I were to build a simple easy to construct 3D printer that was not a Delta printer, I would build this version >> Eventorbot

 

If you "manufacture" a firearm, or reciever(that's the part with the serial number) you must fill out a form and apply for a serial number from the BATF (Bureau of Alcohol Tobacco & Firearms). This is only valid only if you are making it for yourself. You must do this before you manufacture the reciever.
You do not want to get caught with one that has no serial number.

2 min late

Not true. As long as its for your own use(not for sale) and is not full automatic or a "destructive device" (over .50 cal) you can make whatever your heart desires. No applying for a license or informing ATFE. All that is needed on the gun is a serial number that you make up, your name and address, and the caliber of the gun.

I went to my local ATFE branch and got the law book before making a .22 cal Gatling gun and three AR15 receivers from scratch. Just to make sure it was legal.

 

Not true. As long as its for your own use(not for sale) and is not full automatic or a "destructive device" (over .50 cal) you can make whatever your heart desires. No applying for a license or informing ATFE. All that is needed on the gun is a serial number that you make up, your name and address, and the caliber of the gun.

I went to my local ATFE branch and got the law book before making a .22 cal Gatling gun and three AR15 receivers from scratch. Just to make sure it was legal.

You got different info than I did. I was a class I dealer from 1982 till 1996, my info comes from the Atlanta office. According to ATF a serial number is for tracing a weapon, just making one up and not notifying ATF does no good at all, as the number wouldn't be on record anywhere (according to ATF) You are , of course, 100% correct about the class III and destructive device stuff. The info I got was that no work was to be done untill a serial # was issued. A serial number must be affixed to any reciever that is more than 80% ( I believe that's the proper number) complete.
WE have/had a facility in nearby Estill Springs that makes frames for the Barretta mod 94, there was a big fuss about how much machine work could be done on them down here. ATF ruled that we were doing the max allowable machine work that could be done without the frames having a serial number. Baretta did not want to assign serial numbers down here, that was reserved for final assembly , I believe in MD.


Edit: the different info may arise from the way the question was posed to the feds, in other words I was talking about handguns, did you inquire about long guns?

 

They said any gun long or pistol. The numbers are set by the manufacturer not the ATFE. But a manufacturer is not the same as making one for yourself. The manufacturer must give the number range for the run of guns being made to ATFE so they can be tracked.

 

*Thinks about putting a 3D-pinter in a shack (bolted to the floor of course), tossing in the manual, production supplies, extensive library of 3D-printable models (including printable gun's), and renting, or leasing, out the shack(printer) per minute. ... Any gun licence problems left ?

 

So I'm seriously considering one of these 3d printers. I have about $1k to put into it. I would like to work with metal but thats not a deal breaker. My main uses would be to cut 2mm-3mm CF sheets into 2d parts. I would love to find an ABS or type of filiment I could print with, then make a cast with. But for that to work the filiment would need to melt out of the casting. Any other idea's? I don't wanna start from blueprints. I would consider a kit if it had a large community behind it, otherwise I'd like to go RTR.

 

for that to work the filiment would need to melt out of the casting.

I was just about to mention that. It's called the "lost wax process".

 

I guess we could make a reverse mold of the part with latex or plastic. Then make wax mold of that and cook it out to cast parts. If I could cast 6x6x6 parts on my work bench I'd be in hog heaven.

 

The rostock Delta 3D printer I believe is pretty much still a prototype in Beta testing stage, there are others (Check out the RepRap WiKi) that you could build then print other machines for your friends, etc.

You could also get a less "cool" one (not a Delta) for around $600.00 ...
...

Delta is a cool system for high speed pick and place on conveyor belts, but its a poor choice for 3 axis CNC machine. A linear XYZ give much better accuracy especially when real world objects benefit from having straight lines, and better still when those straight lines correspond directly with an XYZ axis.

 

I was just about to mention that. It's called the "lost wax process".

Most of Rugers pistols and revolvers are made from the lost wax process.

If going to the lost wax casting, instead of using plastic in the 3D printer why not use the modeling wax?

 

You don't have to use wax. Anything that will be destroyed by the heat you apply to the mold will work.

 

I don't think that would describe plastic. Actually, you need something that melts neatly and pours out of the way.

 

Should I have said, "completely" destroyed?

Many plastics will leave a hard ash (bad) but several substances besides wax can be de...(excuse me) completely destroyed by the quality of heat that melts steel.

 

So I'm seriously considering one of these 3d printers. I have about $1k to put into it. I would like to work with metal but thats not a deal breaker. My main uses would be to cut 2mm-3mm CF sheets into 2d parts. I would love to find an ABS or type of filiment I could print with, then make a cast with. But for that to work the filiment would need to melt out of the casting. Any other idea's? I don't wanna start from blueprints. I would consider a kit if it had a large community behind it, otherwise I'd like to go RTR.

shoot for 1K you could get a couple.... but seriously, check out the solidoodle 2, for around $600, you can get one that prints with ABS (and other plastic) and does a 6x6x6 model.... and works right out of the box(as long as you have a PC to run it, or you could get the option with the PC)!

 

Good luck Max! Please post your findings.