Know any that can run from 3.3V? (that's the voltage across the caps.)Try adding a little 40mm fan to it. They run from a few mA and will extract all that heat out.
To be honest, I don't even know why they are using a flyback switching isolated power supply. Ethernet is already magnetically isolated to a few kV so there are no safety issues there. They could have got away with using a non-isolated supply such as a ViPer12A in a buck converter configuration or even a capacitive power supply. Why overcomplicate it with a transformer and optoisolation? (N.B. it is generally not recommended to deal with nonisolated supplies on your own, but it is safe to do them if they are in a sealed case, which they were, and with no nonisolated external interface (e.g. an audio output.))The reason the transformer runs hot is just as you would expect, to save money they use a smaller lower spec transformer and push it real close ot its limits (where it runs less efficiently and makes lots of heat). The transformer ferrite core and windings are 2 of the most expensive parts in the whole device.
Can I borrow your bit of wood?I hit the front of the CRT with a piece of wood to fix it.
I've gotten a computer power supply fan to run at 3.3V, you may have to short an internal cap to get it to work with non-pulsed DC though. Or you might be able to add a 555 to pulse it, or do some fancy things with switching caps in series/parallel, I don't know a whole lot about the area, but it sounds do-able.Know any that can run from 3.3V? (that's the voltage across the caps.)
Ethernet uses kV!?!Ethernet is already magnetically isolated to a few kV so there are no safety issues there.
Yeah, but it's not likely to start at low voltages, especially at high temperatures.I've gotten a computer power supply fan to run at 3.3V, you may have to short an internal cap to get it to work with non-pulsed DC though. Or you might be able to add a 555 to pulse it, or do some fancy things with switching caps in series/parallel, I don't know a whole lot about the area, but it sounds do-able.
No. But on systems with various grounds, isolation is critical, as systems may float at various voltages. Ethernet is actually only a few volts IIRC. The little plastic brick you see next to the jack, that's the isolation transformer (two of them in one device.) You'll often see them in Ethernet adapters unless the jack has built in magnetics (MagJack), which is getting more common. Similar isolation is applied for the telephone network.Ethernet uses kV!?!
is this like the cat 5 Ethernet cables you're talking about??
Hm... well then, good luck with thatYeah, but it's not likely to start at low voltages, especially at high temperatures.
Ok, I would have been worried if the Ethernet cords carried that much, as for everything else... I'll take your word for it.No. But on systems with various grounds, isolation is critical, as systems may float at various voltages. Ethernet is actually only a few volts IIRC. The little plastic brick you see next to the jack, that's the isolation transformer (two of them in one device.) You'll often see them in Ethernet adapters unless the jack has built in magnetics (MagJack), which is getting more common. Similar isolation is applied for the telephone network.
Honestly, I think I'll just replace parts as it breaks. There is absolutely no space left in the case for any size of fan.You can get the little 40mm fans in 5v DC versions, I'm guessing they would start and run from 3.3v.
Of course you could also modify the enclosure to greatly increase passive (convection) air cooling, just be sure to make it VERY SAFE as most of those PSU parts are at lethal mains voltages!!!!
Maybe move it to a bigger case and you won´t need a fan. Depends if the original was made to conduct the heat away like in laptop adaptor, then it could actually get worse.Honestly, I think I'll just replace parts as it breaks. There is absolutely no space left in the case for any size of fan.
How am I going to make a custom injection moulded case with the slots for the connectors and the slot for the plug connector? The original case has holes cut in it for ventilation, but obviously they aren't working.Maybe move it to a bigger case and you won´t need a fan. Depends if the original was made to conduct the heat away like in laptop adaptor, then it could actually get worse.
Yeah, would be nice, but it's really a custom job. Like the bottom of it has an interchangeable power connector that connects to the figure-of-8 on the board. It's not really something I can just find lying around, and I'd need two of them (one for upstairs, one for downstairs.)I didn´t mean custom injection moulded, just any bigger box from anything else that it could fit into
harmonics!Why so hot???
good point : )If you drill some holes on the top of the little plastic case and put a fan on top, to extract hot air out, it will run MUCH cooler.
Good point - a fan is not a magical cooling device. It will only work if there is some way for the air to flow. Airflow pulls heat from devices, but it is so cramped inside there, I doubt it would have much of an effect. It could have the reverse effect, it might pull more current from the 3.3V power supply, leading to more heat being produced that it would otherwise remove.Sucking air out with a fan will not work unless there are more holes for fresh cool air to enter.
by Jake Hertz
by Jake Hertz
by Jake Hertz
by Aaron Carman