I think the 10mm for the LDR applies to its light sensitive area.???

Do you have the LDR on the bench.? or have you ordered one?

 

I have a 10M LDR on the bench now.
If No good I can order one, just let me know the spec's.

 

OK,
Look at the images in this link for 10mm LDR's, which image looks the same as yours.??

Do you have an ohm meter for measuring resistance?

https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=1...fgzkp3uBqSHlbAG&ved=0CCEQsAQ&biw=1376&bih=887

 

This is the one I got: http://www.jaycar.com.au/Passive-Components/Resistors/Other-Resistors/Light-Dependent-Resistor-(LDR)/p/RD3480

Dark Resistance: min10M
Light Resistance: 48k - 140k
Max Dissipation: 30mW

 

That looks OK, we should be able to suggest a minor change to the P1 resistance chain.
Have you started building the project.?

 

Nothing built yet, still working out what to do?

 

Ω

So this will run off 12 Volts?
I need a large P- Mosfet as my wattage in 4.3 Watts, would a Vishay SUP53P06-20 P-Channel 60-V (D-S) MOSFET?
http://www.vishay.com/docs/68633/sup53p06.pdf

You don't need that much current, but if you want to and can buy it then it's OK.

Vds = Id * Rds
W = Vds * Id

So less Rds can reducing the power consumption.

 

I use these LED's , VERY bright, even at 10mA.

http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B008AGOLQA/ref=pe_385721_37038051_TE_3p_dp_1

 

That fine ericgibbs.
ScottWang: ou don't need that much current, but if you want to and can buy it then it's OK.

Vds = Id * Rds
W = Vds * Id

So less Rds can reducing the power consumption.

OK will stick with the 5.3 mosfet.

 

hi,
For the LDR, instead of the bottom of the LDR being connected directly to 0v, connect it to 0v via a 39k resistor.
You should still have enough control with pot P1.

E

 

OK will do Eric.

 

What are you guy's using to draw up schematic's? K.I.S.S please

 

I was used the paint.exe to draw the EE symbols and circuits, Wendy also do that, but she do some more, you can take a look -- Paint as CAD.

 

Not good enough, hate Paint.
I'm using Diytrace Full Edition but finding it hard to use.
Also using Pad2Pad to make my boards, very easy to use.

 

You could try this, free download
expresssch and expresspcb

http://www.expresspcb.com/free-cad-software/

 

I think I use that before, I give it a go again as I know a little bit more in these types of software.

 

With a little mod, you could have a joule theif approach, and it will not run out of battery power. If you are interested I will draw a schematic, but I have to be asked.

So did you get around to drawing a circuit?
Andrew

 

Nope, Sorry, I was ... Squirrel!

I'll get er done this weekend. The idea is you can squeeze a power out the batteries with a joule thief arrangemet.

 

Nope, Sorry, I was ... Squirrel!

I'll get er done this weekend. The idea is you can squeeze a power out the batteries with a joule thief arrangemet.

Cool I'm looking forward to it, as I've got a handle at using Diptrace now, making patterns and components and circuits even make a QX5252F with T0-94 body pattern, as I'm mucking around with this chip as well.

 

OK, it always pays to define the circuit parameters before doing a design.

You want 53 LEDs? Just curious, why the odd number (and a prime to boot)? Are you trying to create a pattern?

We want to merge these two schematics...


The Joule Thief arrangement will run a 1 hz blinker for 1 month off two AAA batteries. It is pretty energy efficient.

Something to be aware of, you do not need to run LEDs full out all the time. I rarely do this, even when I am using them as a light source. An odd thing, but when they are flashing at intense brightnesses (from the 70Khz oscillator) they can appear brighter than the average power would indicate.