Or, you may try a VFD.......

 

Yup. The elegant mechanical solution, easy to maintain and fix, far less chance of something going wrong. Dont reverse the motor, reverse the mechanism.

You guys are making my post #3 look pretty weak!

 

Get a longer belt and do a cross/over.

Pretty hard to do in a compact location like a drill press head. Plus on top of that 'V' belts do not take being crossed over and ran at high speed well at all. Given the tight location and small diameter pulleys keeping the belt on would be difficult plus frictional wear would be very high.

To hard to diagnose from a picture !

I thought it was pretty easy to figure out by the pictures. There are only four wires and it's obvious where they go

Or, you may try a VFD.......

Won't do any good on a single phase motor.

 

I learned a long time ago that if you have a problem that seems to be hard to solve, find the laziest son of a gun you can, give the problem to him and he will find an easy way to solve it. Gotta listen to the lazy folks more.

 

find the laziest son of a gun you can, give the problem to him and he will find an easy way to solve it. Gotta listen to the lazy folks more.

The problem is he is usually to lazy to learn also!
Max.

 

The startup winding would most likely have the starter cap on it.

The motor is driving a pulley, yes? Why not put another pulley or gear in line with the drill mechanism that reverses the drill mechanism rather than futzing with the motor?

As stated above. Not enough space inside top.

 

Thought about this, but the windings are closer to the end on one side than the other to allow for this to work.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lR8JZ_nnLr4

 

Sounds like #12's idea in post 3.
Will the field windings come out for reversal?

Have you tried rewiring yet? Much simpler.

tcmtech spelled it out pretty good.

Although it may not be that simple. In that the 4 leads may not be paired to the two winding.

If you disconnect one of the leads from the thermal device, a continuity check should show the solution.

 

Or, you may try a VFD.......

That's what I'm doing if my motor ever dies. 3ph motors are dime a dozen.

I would also like to experiment running a cap start motor on vfd.

Using the start winding thru resistance for third phase. No switch or cap of course.

It might work on a small duty cycle application, if it can be balanced to prevent fault trip.

 

It is possible, I did it on several 230V 1/2 Hp GE motors. On some just brought out start winding leads for reversing switches. The other end of the start winding may appear to be burried, but it is on the surface as a little lump laced up.

 

It is possible, I did it on several 230V 1/2 Hp GE motors. On some just brought out start winding leads for reversing switches. The other end of the start winding may appear to be burried, but it is on the surface as a little lump laced up.

You can see the splices in pictures. (I believe)

If tcmtech is right about the 4 leads, it may be a cake walk.

 

I would also like to experiment running a cap start motor on vfd.
It might work on a small duty cycle application, if it can be balanced to prevent fault trip.

As per post #14 just 4 connections, 2 windings for a two pole motor.
There have been previous attempts to create a 1ph motor VFD, but only works on cap motor run type, not cap start only, and even then, the motor can drop out of run on load at low RPM.
Max.

 

Sounds like #12's idea in post 3.
Will the field windings come out for reversal?

It's usually impossible to move the field windings. If you've ever cut the case off one of these motors for scrap metal, you would see the case pop open like it has been under pressure all its life. You simply can't scoot the field around inside the case. If you could, reversing the motor would be a cinch.

 

It is possible, I did it on several 230V 1/2 Hp GE motors. On some just brought out start winding leads for reversing switches. The other end of the start winding may appear to be burried, but it is on the surface as a little lump laced up.

Bernard, now this seems some what logical. Do I have to go digging around in the windings to accomplish this? Trying to get better photos of whats going on with the wires

 

 

That doesn't seem right.

What is connected to what on the board?

The power can't come in on red and yellow if the switch goes from red to yellow.

Seems power should come in on black and either red or yellow. (guess-yellow)

 

Seems pretty easy to me.

Yellow is the outgoing end of the run winding so it just needs to be flipped with its other end which would either be the orange or the blue wire coming off of the thermal protection device.

 

I agree but,
What about the 1st picture showing power to red and yellow?

 

The red and yellow connections are on the switch that deactivates the start winding. TO me thats the common line.

The thermal protection switch has a single black wire going into it and the two other leads that go into the windings so to me thats the power input or hot line.

To me its a common and fairly standard wiring layout for single voltage single phase induction motors.

Pretty easy to hack into to change the starting direction.

 

You guys are making my post #3 look pretty weak!

I rather like the image of the shaft sticking out the other end.....

Would I have to buy the motor dinner first?