Broken Capacitor Replacement

Discussion in 'General Electronics Chat' started by Neil1454, Apr 26, 2015.

  1. Neil1454

    Thread Starter New Member

    Apr 26, 2015
    4
    0
    Hi,

    I have a broken Capacitor that I am looking to replace as one of the legs of the capacitor has come out of the capacitor.
    I am lacking knowledge when it comes to knowing what I need to replace it. I am assuming that it needs to be the same cap for there to be no issues at all with the card and it be exactly how it should be?

    It's for a PC sound card. A Creative Sound Blaster X-Fi Elite Pro 7.1 Channels 24-bit 192KHz PCI Interface Sound Card.
    http://support.creative.com/kb/ShowArticle.aspx?sid=10571

    Here are some pictures of the capacitor (it's the large black cap)...
    https://www.dropbox.com/s/hl1ds74vzob4jow/2015-04-26_12.27.46_50.jpg
    https://www.dropbox.com/s/0radxwu9nc9d2zf/2015-04-26_12.28.17_50.jpg
    https://www.dropbox.com/s/l14f45r3q8joj6j/2015-04-26_12.28.40_50.jpg
    https://www.dropbox.com/s/9wmtqoyvgwhq2z6/2015-04-26_12.29.09_50.jpg

    If anyone could please advise me to exactly what I would need to get to replace the cap, that would be great.

    Thank you! :)
     
  2. Papabravo

    Expert

    Feb 24, 2006
    10,135
    1,786
    It is labeled as a 220 μfd., 16VDC elctrolytic capacitor. Without knowing what it was used for in a circuit I cannot give a precise and reliable recommendation for a replacement. Given it's proximity to the inductor it might be part of a switching regulator. These circuits generally require low ESR capacitors. How low you ask? I don't know how low is good enough, but the lower the better. The problem is if you guess wrong you could make things worse. I would need a schematic to evaluate the requirement.
     
  3. bertus

    Administrator

    Apr 5, 2008
    15,638
    2,344
    Hello,

    It clearly states 220 μF / 16 V.
    It is a longlife version as it states 105° on the other side.

    Bertus
     
  4. Reloadron

    Active Member

    Jan 15, 2015
    963
    232
    What you have there is a very common 220 uF 16 Volt capacitor. They were commonly available at any Radio Shack for about $0.99, unfortunately local Radio Shacks are closing up. Any electronics parts house will have them. The remaining task would be to remove the remains of the old capacitor, clean up the board and solder in the replacement part. Assuming that cap is the only problem about a 5 min job with the right tools (soldering pencil and soldering skills). A Google of "220uf 16v capacitor" will find you one. The cap is inexpensive but you are looking at a few bucks likely shipping and handling. If you have any parts houses local to you give them a shot.This is my guess.

    Ron
     
  5. Neil1454

    Thread Starter New Member

    Apr 26, 2015
    4
    0
    Firstly thank you to ALL of you who replied :)

    On research it seems to be this...
    Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitor 16v220uf G-LUXON
    http://www.alibaba.com/product-deta...ic-Capacitor-16v220uf-G-LUXON_1024628781.html
    On my broken cap it also says... 802P(M)
    On the one on the site above it says... 605B(M)
    Does anyone know what that means?

    Is that to do with the low ESR that Papabravo was speaking about? Or will this be the right replacement regardless?

    Thanks
     
  6. bertus

    Administrator

    Apr 5, 2008
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  7. BillB3857

    Senior Member

    Feb 28, 2009
    2,400
    348
    The 802P(M) and 605B(M) labels are probably date codes indicating date and location of manufacture, ie 6th month of 2005 and 8th month of 2002. Not sure of teh P, B and M designations.
     
  8. Neil1454

    Thread Starter New Member

    Apr 26, 2015
    4
    0
    Thanks to everyone who has helped !

    Thanks I think this might be what I need.

    Maybe that is what they are.
     
  9. shteii01

    AAC Fanatic!

    Feb 19, 2010
    3,377
    494
    Ok, so sorting out all the useless crap we have:
    G-Luxon
    LU series
    220 uF
    16 V

    What I found:
    According to manufacturer this is the same as Teapo SJ series: http://www.luxon.com.tw/Web-En/RadialLead-en.aspx Teapo SJ==Luxon LU
    Here is the datasheet: http://www.luxon.com.tw/WebSiteFile/Products/Product_Data/SJ.pdf
    It is can 8 mm diameter, 11 mm tall, 620 mA ripple current, 0.1 Ohm (I am guessing this is ESR).

    In my limited experience the (M) indicates the tolerance of +/- 20%.
    End file.

    Here are some useful guidelines that I found when I was looking for info to replace a cap on the power board of my monitor (for the record the cap got replaced and my monitor is back in business after sitting on the shelf in half dismantled condition for a year or more).
    For replacements:
    - ESR should be the same or lower.
    - Ripple should be the same or higher.
    - Voltage should be the same or higher. [Without getting ridiculous.]
    - Don't wanna change uF unless you have to.
    - Also make sure it will physically fit both diameter and height.

    From reading badcaps.com, Luxon or G-Luxon is not a very good brand. Not the worst, but not very good either. Considering the prices that Creative charges for their cards... now you know where they make big bucks. Charge high price, use cheap low quality parts whenever possible.
     
    Last edited: Apr 26, 2015
  10. Neil1454

    Thread Starter New Member

    Apr 26, 2015
    4
    0
    Thanks... so in the case of the panasonic one posted above that shows a ripple of..
    4150 @ ESR of 13
    http://www.farnell.com/datasheets/1734355.pdf

    So this cap would not fit the bill?
    The size etc of the cap is not important right if it will fit the area ok?
     
  11. bertus

    Administrator

    Apr 5, 2008
    15,638
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    Hello,

    As stated by shteii01 the ripple current should be higher 4120 vs 620 mA.
    The ESR should be lower 13 mOhm vs 100 mOhm.

    The farnell cap would fit well.

    Bertus
     
  12. ian field

    Distinguished Member

    Oct 27, 2012
    4,413
    782
    As someone else observed; the label shows its a 220uF 16V electrolytic, you should note that the label also indicates 105 deg-C - el-cheapo off the shelf parts are often only 85 deg-C.

    The SMD inductor close to it hints at the possibility its part of an onboard switching regulator - get a low ESR replacement just to be on the safe side.
     
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