Automotive LED Circuit

Thread Starter

jewster

Joined Dec 15, 2009
17
I am attempting to install some LEDs in my vehicle. They should be tied to a 3 position switch with these goals:

POS 1: LEDs come on with dome lights
POS 2: LEDs off, regardless of dome lights
POS 3: LEDs on, regardless of dome lights

I have made the following schematic. Will this accomplish my goal? Also, my leds already have resistors.

 

SgtWookie

Joined Jul 17, 2007
22,230
Good effort on the schematic.
Unfortunately, it won't quite do what you're wanting to do.
But first, a few more details.
Tell us about the relay - is that already existing, like the accessory circuit relay? Or are you planning on adding it?

Did you want the lights to always be able to turn on, even with the key out of the ignition? Or just to be able to turn on when the engine is running or the ignition switch turned to the ACCY position?

The switch: you will need a single-pole, double-throw switch that is ON-OFF-ON (center off)
 

Thread Starter

jewster

Joined Dec 15, 2009
17
Thanks. My mspaint skills are great as you can see. heh.

The entire circuit is new to the vehicle, including the relay.

Yes, I would like to be able to turn the lights on at any time, even with the keys out of the IGN and I would like that to be position #3 on the switch. Lights off, would be position #2 and lights on only with domes would be pos #1.

The switch in my illustration was supposed to be SPDT ON-OFF-ON. I just left the middle pins empty as that would be "OFF".

I guess I am a little confused. Any help is appreciated.

Thanks
 

SgtWookie

Joined Jul 17, 2007
22,230
You could do something like this:



The "Harness" label represents the wire going to the dome light that came with the vehicle.

You'll need to find a place that is always supplied with battery voltage when the key is removed and everything is turned off. You should always use a fuse (represented by F1) to protect your wiring. Car fires are no fun.
 

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Thread Starter

jewster

Joined Dec 15, 2009
17
Wow I was way over complicating things. That makes a lot of sense considering the draw is so low, a relay really isn't needed. My only question then, is. Do I just leave the middle pins of the switch not connected to accomplish the "off" position? If not, how would I wire the switch?

Thanks again.
 

Thread Starter

jewster

Joined Dec 15, 2009
17
eesh...okay I understand now. Although the only thing that still confuses me is that the wire I need to tap to access the dome light trigger is (-). I don't need to factor that into the schematic?
 

SgtWookie

Joined Jul 17, 2007
22,230
In my schematics' S1, the right-hand terminal is the COM (common) terminal.

There are two other terminals; one connects to the fused battery supply, the other connects to the dome lamp power wire.

The COM terminal is the only terminal that can connect to either of the other two terminals.

The terminals that are not COM cannot ever connect to each other. They are isolated from each other inside the switch.
 

SgtWookie

Joined Jul 17, 2007
22,230
And it isn't a problem that my dome light wire is (-)?
Ahhh.... you're going to have to explain that a bit more.

There wouldn't just be a - wire to the dome light; there would also be a +V wire.

Or are you trying to tell us that the ground wire is switched, and the +V wire is constant 12.7v?
 

Thread Starter

jewster

Joined Dec 15, 2009
17
Heh...Sorry I wasn't clear on that before. Being new at this, you can imagine my confusion and my original schematic is a result of that. I really appreciate your help here.
 
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