I have an account with mouser, I've ordered various components for some of my larger aircraft and have been very happy with them. Thanks, you can't imagine how grateful I am. Todd
Automatic chicken coop door
- Thread starter iflygiantrc
- Start date
I have a list. It doesn't include switches. You are allowed to ask questions.
I chose a 20 amp fuse holder because it is rated for a high temperature. (I just hate it when the fuse holder melts.)
The MOV is exactly the right one. The transistor is 6 cents! (Win) The resistors are just right at 10 cents each
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Fairchild-Semiconductor/KSP2907ABU/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMu0OQWcB%252b5gDkjdXEBBmAIvhK2BSQFhaKI%3d
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail...GAEpiMZZMuQmL5N8IqpX4X6Yim3dlWHseFC/%2bJIIR8=
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail...=sGAEpiMZZMvJBlHRSOGUxDyLn4Axszb7ZjXsb4nPBAw=
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail...GAEpiMZZMukmSYeDOiaDNQSysoIj%2bw1IcbpXGRghYs=
I chose a 20 amp fuse holder because it is rated for a high temperature. (I just hate it when the fuse holder melts.)
The MOV is exactly the right one. The transistor is 6 cents! (Win) The resistors are just right at 10 cents each
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Fairchild-Semiconductor/KSP2907ABU/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMu0OQWcB%252b5gDkjdXEBBmAIvhK2BSQFhaKI%3d
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail...GAEpiMZZMuQmL5N8IqpX4X6Yim3dlWHseFC/%2bJIIR8=
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail...=sGAEpiMZZMvJBlHRSOGUxDyLn4Axszb7ZjXsb4nPBAw=
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail...GAEpiMZZMukmSYeDOiaDNQSysoIj%2bw1IcbpXGRghYs=
Attachments
Ok, so I need 3 MOV and 1 bipolar transistor? Just for S's&G's, what switches would you suggest if you don't mind (limits, on/off, and mode[open/auto/close]). I'm going to order today, probably this afternoon if I don't hear from you. I'll order a few extra of the MOV's and BJT just in case of accidents, especially at the prices listed. Todd
1) you also need a 750 ohm, 1/2 watt resistor.
2) you already said you have the limit switches and the relays.
3) I can't find a 3 position switch that looks good to me, but I've always had trouble with mouser's search engine. That's single pole, 3 position, on-on-on
and be sure to check the VA rating. Some of them were 28 volts, .4 va. That's barely enough to run an LED! You have to switch enough current to run a relay and the nightwatchman.
2) you already said you have the limit switches and the relays.
3) I can't find a 3 position switch that looks good to me, but I've always had trouble with mouser's search engine. That's single pole, 3 position, on-on-on
and be sure to check the VA rating. Some of them were 28 volts, .4 va. That's barely enough to run an LED! You have to switch enough current to run a relay and the nightwatchman.
I do have the limit switches and actually one that will work for the main on/off also. I just thought that since I'm ordering, I may as well make it a good one. I can't have enough micro limit switches for my hobby. I'll do a little looking around will I'm on their site and I'll also try to think of any other products of theirs that I can use. I agree, I don't like their search engine and prefer to use the paper catalog then look up the part. Todd
You wouldn't happen to have a part number for the resistor would you, I just did a search and there are way too many types, ratings and numerous other variables for someone who isn't in "the know" to confidently pick one. Todd
Oops. Did I miss that? BRB
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/TE-Connectivity/CFR50J750R/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMu61qfTUdNhG05q5R9Z8%252b9sV3NaUvtHsM4%3d
(There are so many resistors that even I ran down 2 or 3 dead ends before I found the right ones.)
(I just figured out that Kansas must be part of the Midwest. I can understand every slang you use.)
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/TE-Connectivity/CFR50J750R/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMu61qfTUdNhG05q5R9Z8%252b9sV3NaUvtHsM4%3d
(There are so many resistors that even I ran down 2 or 3 dead ends before I found the right ones.)
(I just figured out that Kansas must be part of the Midwest. I can understand every slang you use.)
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Cool, thanks. Lol, can't get more middle than here. Todd
Wrong on the first one. Parenthesis means momentary. I'd recommend a 3 position switch that stays where you put it.
The second switch (on-off) is good enough to run the electronics, and I guess that's good enough to not need a switch for the motor wiring. Don't forget to put a fuse in the motor circuit. Have you measured the amps yet? Likely to be in excess of the 10 amps that most meters can handle. It will blow the fuse in your meter if you don't find another way.
I'm thinking, just stick a 20 amp fuse in the holder and see if it survives. If not, get an automotive fuse holder and try some ATO (automotive) fuses at 25 or 30 amps. It's going to be cut and try if you don't come up with a trick way to exceed the limits of your meter.
I better change the drawing so you aren't using a 20 amp fuse on the electronics.
The second switch (on-off) is good enough to run the electronics, and I guess that's good enough to not need a switch for the motor wiring. Don't forget to put a fuse in the motor circuit. Have you measured the amps yet? Likely to be in excess of the 10 amps that most meters can handle. It will blow the fuse in your meter if you don't find another way.
I'm thinking, just stick a 20 amp fuse in the holder and see if it survives. If not, get an automotive fuse holder and try some ATO (automotive) fuses at 25 or 30 amps. It's going to be cut and try if you don't come up with a trick way to exceed the limits of your meter.
I better change the drawing so you aren't using a 20 amp fuse on the electronics.
The first drawing provides for the switches to be fused seperate from the motor so you don't have to find a 30 amp 3 pole switch. The second drawing changes the relays so the motor terminals aren't "hot" all the time and waiting for a ground. With this configuration, the motor terminals are normally grounded and waiting for a voltage. (Better to go through the improvements on paper than with wire cutters in hand.)
Attachments
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I didn't know that about the switches, thanks. This one should work in that case - http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/NKK-Switches/M2024SD3W01/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMvudeGI7i40XP%2fCp1EGKgNNDdTqPdPwRLg%3d , everything else was fine, correct? If i'm not mistaken, I should be ready for the order. I'll look at my vehicles and see what they are using for the window circuits - fuse wise. I haven't measured the amperage draw from the motor and figured it would be either half or one quarter of what either one of my vehicles are (2 door and 4 door). I'd prefer to have the switch disconnect both the control circuit and the motor if at all possible.
My accord uses 20 amp fuses on each window. I can't imagine needing anything more / with that said, the moon roof uses a 30 amp. What amperage do you think I should fuse the control circuit with? Todd
I was looking at your second drawing and mapping out all the parts; where does the bipolar transistor go?
That switch in post 53 will work for the 3 position switch.
You have not located a 20 amp SPST switch to shut everything off.
A 20 amp fuse is within the limits of the fuseholder I named, and it might turn out to be a lesser amperage fuse. You can use a second fuseholder (of the same number) for something like a 1/4 amp or 1/2 amp 3AG fuse for the control section.
I moved the switch in the drawing to where you asked for it.
You have not located a 20 amp SPST switch to shut everything off.
A 20 amp fuse is within the limits of the fuseholder I named, and it might turn out to be a lesser amperage fuse. You can use a second fuseholder (of the same number) for something like a 1/4 amp or 1/2 amp 3AG fuse for the control section.
I moved the switch in the drawing to where you asked for it.
Attachments
Where the transistor goes: on a piece of circuit board. It will live with a 750 ohm resistor and wires will connect it to a limit switch, the output of the nightwatchman, and the 12V power line coming out of the 1/2 amp fuse.
I'm feeling confused. Did you understand that you will have to make a small piece of circuit board to hold the transistor?
ps, I'm not finding any cute little toggle switches that can do 20 amps. You'll have to change styles.
I'm feeling confused. Did you understand that you will have to make a small piece of circuit board to hold the transistor?
ps, I'm not finding any cute little toggle switches that can do 20 amps. You'll have to change styles.
Yes, I'm quite comfortable soldering circuit board, I have done it before and actually found it enjoyable. I just didn't see the MOV on the latest drawings and if I don't see it I can't/won't do it. Think of me as a trained monkey in a cage that has the skills to do the tasks but has little understanding of what some of the parts really do and you are the researcher giving me commands. I'll do some more digging on Mouser for a bigger switch (on/off). Just to make sure we are on the same page with me being a monkey and all; 3 MOV's, 1 bipolar transistor, 1 750 ohm resistor, a circuit board, 2 fuse holders, 2 limit switches and one of each of the other two switches. Do I need 2 resistors and bipolar transistors (one set for each of the limit switches)?
One more thought, is there any reason why I couldn't use a standard household toggle switch for the whole system on/off? I know it's designed for high voltage A/C but would it easily work with out any negatives?
From the drawing in post #56:
(1) 20 amp, SPST switch
(2) fuse holders and 3AG fuses to fit the amperage of each circuit.
(1) SP3T switch good for maybe 1/4 to 1/2 amp and 12 or more volts
(1) eyeball thingy
(2) relays, 12V SPDT capable of 20 amps at 12VDC
(2) limit switches, SPST or SPDT, rated for at least 1/4 amp
(1) transistor
(1) (750 ohm) 1/2 watt resistor
(3) MOV's
(1) chunk of circuit board
Then you'll need stranded wire: 12 gauge for the motor circuits and something in the 16 to 20 gauge range for the control circuits. Not that the current needs that much copper, but that anything smaller than 20 gauge doesn't survive well in a place with vibration and it's nearly impossible to get a good crimp connection. I think 18 gauge is about right. You can strip twice as much clean end as you're supposed to and double it back on itself for the crimp ends. You will need 1/4 inch female spade (squeeze on) connectors to connect the wires to the relays and limit switches. A little chunk of circuit board to make the transistor section and a box to keep it in. (Circuit boards get pissy about corrosion, and chicken poop is corrosive.) Some Krylon Clear will help with that but it's no substitute for an enclosure. You can use strands of the 12 gauge wire to make current paths on the circuit board, if needed. Don't forget zip-ties and some screw-down wire holders to keep things neat. You can actually buy screw-down zip-ties. Get the black ones. The white ones don't survive sunlight well.
If you're going to use a metal box for the transistor, you'll need a squeezy strain relief thing to keep the metal from chafing the wires, or a rubber grommet, or a plastic grommet. Then there are the connectors for the battery. Shrink tubing makes soldered inline-splices look nice and neat, if you want to do that, but I'd never ship shrink tubing in August.
Then there is the fact that you never remember everything in a list like this.
(1) 20 amp, SPST switch
(2) fuse holders and 3AG fuses to fit the amperage of each circuit.
(1) SP3T switch good for maybe 1/4 to 1/2 amp and 12 or more volts
(1) eyeball thingy
(2) relays, 12V SPDT capable of 20 amps at 12VDC
(2) limit switches, SPST or SPDT, rated for at least 1/4 amp
(1) transistor
(1) (750 ohm) 1/2 watt resistor
(3) MOV's
(1) chunk of circuit board
Then you'll need stranded wire: 12 gauge for the motor circuits and something in the 16 to 20 gauge range for the control circuits. Not that the current needs that much copper, but that anything smaller than 20 gauge doesn't survive well in a place with vibration and it's nearly impossible to get a good crimp connection. I think 18 gauge is about right. You can strip twice as much clean end as you're supposed to and double it back on itself for the crimp ends. You will need 1/4 inch female spade (squeeze on) connectors to connect the wires to the relays and limit switches. A little chunk of circuit board to make the transistor section and a box to keep it in. (Circuit boards get pissy about corrosion, and chicken poop is corrosive.) Some Krylon Clear will help with that but it's no substitute for an enclosure. You can use strands of the 12 gauge wire to make current paths on the circuit board, if needed. Don't forget zip-ties and some screw-down wire holders to keep things neat. You can actually buy screw-down zip-ties. Get the black ones. The white ones don't survive sunlight well.
If you're going to use a metal box for the transistor, you'll need a squeezy strain relief thing to keep the metal from chafing the wires, or a rubber grommet, or a plastic grommet. Then there are the connectors for the battery. Shrink tubing makes soldered inline-splices look nice and neat, if you want to do that, but I'd never ship shrink tubing in August.
Then there is the fact that you never remember everything in a list like this.
