Why not split the schematic into sections, e.g. battery charger, bass, amp, tweeter amp.
It is more convenient for readers to see the schematics directly rather than having to go to another site.

 

The charging circuit you found limits the charging cirrent with the base-emitter voltage of the transistor (about 0.65V) divided by the the 2.2 ohm resistor which is about 296mA DC. Then the transformer must provide at least 418mA AC. Add more transformer current if you play the amplifiers while the battery is charging. The trimpot sets the max voltage. It does not turn off when the battery is fully charged but the lead acid battery is fine with a trickle charge.

The charger is fed from the rectifier bridge and it feeds the battery and the voltage regulator. The filter capacitor at the output of the rectifier bridge should be 1000uF.

Both filters must have the same frequency to avoid frequencies between them from being reduced in level.

Your highpass filter will not work at the calculated frequency because the input impedance of the amplifier input is parallel to the 100k resistor. The amplifier's datasheet shows that the "typical" input impedance is 50k but it could be more or less. Then the resistor in the filter should be 4.7k ohms. If the amplifier is 30k ohms then the total resistance for the filter will be 4.1k and if the amplifier is 70k then the total resistance for the filter will be 4.4k ohms. Then the filter will be fairly accurate if the capacitor is calculated for a 4.25k ohm resistance.

Your lowpass filter will not have its calculated frequency unless the source impedance is 5 ohms or less because your resistor value is much too low at only 51 ohms. Use a 4.7k ohm resistor and calculate a capacitor for it.

Then the impedance of the source must be 235 ohms or less (headphones output).
Usually an active crossover filter like you are making uses an opamp at its input so the source impedance can be almost anything.

The gain of the bass amplifier will be 100 if the 1.2k resistor at pin 1 is reduced to 150 ohms but then the 10uF capacitor in series with it must be increased to 47uF.

 

I corrected some errors:

 

I corrected more errors:

 

What about R17, I noticed you scratched it but should I replace the value?
According to an online LM317 calculator, with a 120Ohm R1 I need R2 to be 750ohm to get 9.06V. Ill update it to 750ohm for now.

I'll have to recalculate the filters and give them the exame same frequency.

Bass Boost is updated, now with a 150 ohm and 47uF.

 

Yes, use 120 ohms for R18 and use 750 ohms for R17.

EDIT: It looks like a 12VAC transformer will be a little low, use a 15V transformer.

 

Roger. 15V it is.

Updated:
- recalculated the frequencies of the filters (hope i got it right)
- transformer is 15v again
- added a few caps on the voltage regulator

Between the Transformer and the Charging Circuits, there are 3 parallel caps.
1uF 10uF and 1000uF, should I keep them all? I know the 1F cap is important. But the other two, aren't they redundant?

 

Here are some more corrections:

 

This thread is getting weirder every time.

If OP has a problem in the sound reproduced while using the circuit in post #27 lemme know .
If it does I'll be a monkeys uncles.

 

How do you know the values of the resistors and caps? I wouldn't be able to do this alone for sure


So the bass speaker gets 100 gain and the tweeter gets 50gain?

@R!f@@: im hoping we are just fine tunning everything up ;D
I bet that breadboarding this is going to be a pain in the buttocks ahah.

 

I really doubt u will be satisfied with the sound.

Just bread it listen.
First listen to the tweeter, how it distorts.
Second is listen to see if u get good bass.

Another problem I see is concerning the size of ur speakers, a LM386 is just too puny.

U have atleast 12V DC. So why not use a car stereo amp chip. It will be far better and simpler to make.

 

How do you know the values of the resistors and caps?

A little experience and some simple arithmatic.

So the bass speaker gets 100 gain and the tweeter gets 50 gain?

The woofer has a gain of 100 from about 20Hz to about 400Hz then its gain drops to 50 from about 1khz to 3kHz.
The tweeter has a gain of 50 from about 3kHz to as high as it can play.
Then the bass sounds have a boost of +6dB.

I am wasting my time because you are missing some of my corrections:

 

Sorry, its getting a bit confusing so many connections and I can't really tell whats being shorted. I think I corrected everything now.

 

Now you have a circuit that will work pretty well on a pcb or stripboard. It will probably oscillate on a breadboard. Its output power will be very low.

 

Great! Time to breadboard it =)
I'll expect some weird noises on the breadboard.

Thank you! I'll post some pictures

 

The LM386 audio power amps and most other power amps have a frequency response to 300kHz and higher. The stray capacitance between rows of contacts and between wires on a breadboard will probably cause it to oscillate at a high frequency that you cannot hear but the continuous high power causes the audio to sound distorted and causes the ICs to get very hot.

The power is very low. Will you wear the speakers on your ears?

Many years ago I made an audio system for the beach. It had two 3" satellite speakers for midrange and highs with 2W each and had a 4" woofer with 6W. It sounded better than all the boomboxes there.

 

Well, on my hears certainly not, since the speakers are kind of big!

I made a small speaker with an LM386 in a wooden box with one of the "tweeters" I salvaged from the Sony HiFi.

HEre it is:

the sound is kind of crappy and you can't turn the volume all the way up on the Mp3 player, however it has a 9V battery inside and you can recharge it pluging the speaker to the wall with a simple cable.
Oh and it has a VU Meter I was really proud of that. The red LED's start at the bottom and go around, thats the VU Meter.

Its good enough to take on a trip or go camping.

The current project (Boombox suitcase) is an evolution of that small wooden speaker. Its supposed to last longer and should sound a bit better.

I'll take a photo of the speakers I have atm. I only have 1 tweeter and 1 woofer. As far as i know it probably isn't even a tweeter, its probably midrange. Thats how little I know

I'll eventually buy cheap speakers. I'd love to have a 10" woofer ;D the wattage doesn't need to be anything amazing, I mean, I'm driving them with an LM386



I found a few shots of the insides of that Wooden Speaker. See that speaker? Thats the "tweeter" i was refering to, i have another one spare. The woofer is bigger and its square. A big square membrane.

 

Cheap speakers sound awful.
The speaker in your photo is like the speaker in a cheap speaker of a "computer" speaker system.
It plays midrange, no bass and not as high as you can hear.
Your woofer might not play deep bass sounds. Its enclosure size is important.

The output power of your system will be like a cheap clock radio.

 

Well... I'm sure it won't sound amazing, but as long as it plays something and loud enough to hear it on the beach / camping.

I'm not expecting much from the LM386 but it sure is a fun project
maybe next time i'll use some other amp