Arduino control TIP121 transistor to driving motor.

Thread Starter

neo1111

Joined Jan 11, 2014
28
i need some help .

I made this montage but instead of TIP120 i used tip121 and instead of 1n4004 i used 1n4007.
With the diode i think is not a problem


The problem is that that the motor powers everytime i connect the battery.
I want to stay stood at first and depending on the program to start rotate . (pin from arduino in As OUTPUT).
I thought the resistor was supposed to keep the motor stopped at first .
My main concern is : i should change the TIP121 with 120 , and then all will work just fine ?
I haven't found any TIP120 transistor that's why i used this one .
P.S. : the battery is a 9V one
 
Last edited:

ian field

Joined Oct 27, 2012
6,536
i need some help .
I made this montage but instead of TIP120 i used tip121 and instead of 1n4004 i used 1n4007.
With the diode i think is not a problem
The problem is that that the motor powers everytime i connect the battery.
I want to stay stood at first and depending on the program to start rotate . (pin from arduino in As OUTPUT).
I thought the resistor was supposed to keep the motor stopped at first .
My main concern is : i should change the TIP121 with 120 , and then all will work just fine ?
I haven't found anu TIP120 transistor that's why i used this one .
The diode looks OK on both schematic and breadboard.

The logic output may not have a low enough VOlow to cut off the transistor fully, although that's probably not so likely with a Darlington - they need 2x Vbe to turn on.

Its probably worth trying a 10k shunt resistor from base to emitter just to make sure though.

If you *ACTUALLY ARE* using the transistor radio battery pictured - it won't run the motor long anyway.

If the 10k resistor doesn't stop it, disconnect the base from the logic and short the base to emitter - if that doesn't turn it off, its shorted.
 

Alec_t

Joined Sep 17, 2013
14,313
The bar (cathode) of the diode should connect to battery +ve. The anode of the diode should connect to the collector.
 

Thread Starter

neo1111

Joined Jan 11, 2014
28
The diode looks OK on both schematic and breadboard.

The logic output may not have a low enough VOlow to cut off the transistor fully, although that's probably not so likely with a Darlington - they need 2x Vbe to turn on.

Its probably worth trying a 10k shunt resistor from base to emitter just to make sure though.

If you *ACTUALLY ARE* using the transistor radio battery pictured - it won't run the motor long anyway.

If the 10k resistor doesn't stop it, disconnect the base from the logic and short the base to emitter - if that doesn't turn it off, its shorted.
haven't tried with the 10k rsistor.
I removed the connection from board and connected the base-emitor but when i connect the battery=>starts rotating the motor.
 
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Thread Starter

neo1111

Joined Jan 11, 2014
28
But will it perform it's function in that configuration? I'm having a brain freeze trying to picture the current flow without a schematic. Could be the Zyrtec I had to take.
this is the schematic.i don't have to use the capacitor because it's a brushless motor.Haven't used the 1Mohm resistor as well2015-05-14 03.06.16.jpg
 

MaxHeadRoom

Joined Jul 18, 2013
28,685
this is the schematic.i don't have to use the capacitor because it's a brushless motor.
If it is a two lead brushless motor it most likely has a built in controller/commutation circuit.
If it is the case, then you may not be able to vary the rpm externally.
BLDC motors usually have 3 stator windings and require external commutation.
Max.
 

MaxHeadRoom

Joined Jul 18, 2013
28,685
If you are just operating the motor in an off situation instead of RPM control (I may have misunderstood) but for that low a current motor you most likely could run off of a Mosfet, even a 2n7000 if under 200ma.
Max.
 

MikeML

Joined Oct 2, 2009
5,444
The proper way to use a TIP120 to control your motor. The diode is now in the correct place. A NPN Darlington transistor is not the preferred way of doing this because of its Vce-sat. A logic-level gate NMOS would do this better.

66.gif
 

ian field

Joined Oct 27, 2012
6,536
But will it perform it's function in that configuration? I'm having a brain freeze trying to picture the current flow without a schematic. Could be the Zyrtec I had to take.
The diode would probably be better across the motor to catch the back emf there, it appears to be correctly orientated to not forward bias in normal operation - but I think some Darlingtons have an integral diode anyway - so it could be merely superfluous.

Perhaps I should have worded it differently - such as "I don't think the diode is causing the problem".
 

Thread Starter

neo1111

Joined Jan 11, 2014
28
Do you have any control over the PWM frequency?
I can use this code in order for my motor to rotate slower/faster --> speed .
Code:
// Define which pin to be used to communicate with Base pin of TIP120  transistor
int TIP120pin = 11; //for this project, I pick Arduino's PMW pin 11
void setup()
{
pinMode(TIP120pin, OUTPUT); // Set pin for output to control TIP120 Base pin
analogWrite(TIP120pin, 255); // By changing values from 0 to 255 i  can control motor speed
}

void loop()
{
}
 

ian field

Joined Oct 27, 2012
6,536
I can use this code in order for my motor to rotate slower/faster --> speed .
Code:
// Define which pin to be used to communicate with Base pin of TIP120  transistor
int TIP120pin = 11; //for this project, I pick Arduino's PMW pin 11
void setup()
{
pinMode(TIP120pin, OUTPUT); // Set pin for output to control TIP120 Base pin
analogWrite(TIP120pin, 255); // By changing values from 0 to 255 i  can control motor speed
}
 
void loop()
{
}
The higher the PWM frequency - the less judder/ripple on the motor shaft.

150 - 300Hz is probably a reasonably good starting point - anywhere near kHz and motor torque will be limited by its winding inductance.
 
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