The timer is activated by another switch.

The pressure switch can go high or low whichever is required.

My circuit... with my limited knowledge i just played in the simulator till it worked.
The leds are lit until the second high comes in and flips it over to the other leds which are a different colour.

I have connected the gate directly to ground bypassing the resistor.

http://everycircuit.com/circuit/4561798999572480

 

The timer is activated by another switch.

The pressure switch can go high or low whichever is required.

My circuit... with my limited knowledge i just played in the simulator till it worked.
The leds are lit until the second high comes in and flips it over to the other leds which are a different colour.

I have connected the gate directly to ground bypassing the resistor.

http://everycircuit.com/circuit/4561798999572480

With a ground into the gate the output will always be high. The switch can't do anything. Instead of tying it to ground you want to tie it to VCC. You need a pull down (corrected) resistor on the logic side of the switch. It gets a good high when the switch is pressed but floats when the switch is not pressed. The input may see a high or low depending on the logic family, but really just unpredictable. Not that it won't work. It may just be unpredictable..
Did you want the light to stay changed after taking your foot off of the sensor?
Does stepping on an improper sensor kill progress?

 

The timer is activated by another switch.

The pressure switch can go high or low whichever is required.

My circuit... with my limited knowledge i just played in the simulator till it worked.
The leds are lit until the second high comes in and flips it over to the other leds which are a different colour.

I have connected the gate directly to ground bypassing the resistor.

http://everycircuit.com/circuit/4561798999572480

Another version.
All lights are one color at power-on. Some event starts the timing cycle. All four proper switches must be triggered in the right sequence in the allowed time. When properly triggered the color changes. Stepping on "proper #2" puts #1 back to the original color, and so on. Triggering "proper #4" turns on the torch. Triggering an improper button kills the timing cycle and turns all the LEDs back to the original color.
Are we getting closer? Up to 6 ICs. A microcontroller would bring us down to 3 or 4 ICs.
Still runs on 12 V.

 

Hi hp1729.
I can download the pdf...just cant view it in here it seems.

Thank you for your work
I was intending to have the correct ones stay that colour but i kinda like the idea they reset.

I might change u9a too a 555 if thats ok as they are a little mor manageable for me.(and i have them)
Is this output high or low?

What does u8 do?

Does this software by any chance give you a circuit board desingn?

Thamks again.
Daz.

 

Hi hp1729.
I can download the pdf...just cant view it in here it seems.

Thank you for your work
I was intending to have the correct ones stay that colour but i kinda like the idea they reset.

I might change u9a too a 555 if thats ok as they are a little mor manageable for me.(and i have them)
Is this output high or low?

What does u8 do?

Does this software by any chance give you a circuit board desingn?

Thamks again.
Daz.

U8 drives the lights in the other blocks.
Will you ever want to change which blocks are the proper ones? Should all blocks have the same red/green design?
I use ORCAD for the schematics. It does PCB stuff but it's harder (at least for me) than other programs.
555 is no problem. The 4538 just draws less current.

 

Hi hp1729.
I can download the pdf...just cant view it in here it seems.

Thank you for your work
I was intending to have the correct ones stay that colour but i kinda like the idea they reset.

I might change u9a too a 555 if thats ok as they are a little mor manageable for me.(and i have them)
Is this output high or low?

What does u8 do?

Does this software by any chance give you a circuit board desingn?

Thamks again.
Daz.

Here is a circuit that accomplishes what you have been trying to do. It works EVERY TIME it is stepped on. There is no logic output to other circuits and no disable.

 

Here is a circuit that accomplishes what you have been trying to do. It works EVERY TIME it is stepped on. There is no logic output to other circuits and no disable.

For a 12V battery, the R4 could using more bigger as 100K or 47K to reducing draw current waste for nothing.

 

I think the main circuit you have resigned supercedes this.
I designed this circuit that when the system is armed by the first swtich all the blocks light up. So there is a high there for that.
Then when a correct block was stepped on a second high would come through. This would switch over the colour. The switches in the diagram were just for simulation.

Each correct block will have a different detail on top to give a clue to the correct order so the blocks will be static.

Any suggestions on what i might used to get a board design?
Otherwise i see a headache in my future.

In your circuit.. do the switches ground? (Go low?)


Thanks for all your help.

 

I think the main circuit you have resigned supercedes this.
I designed this circuit that when the system is armed by the first swtich all the blocks light up. So there is a high there for that.
Then when a correct block was stepped on a second high would come through. This would switch over the colour. The switches in the diagram were just for simulation.

Each correct block will have a different detail on top to give a clue to the correct order so the blocks will be static.

Any suggestions on what i might used to get a board design?
Otherwise i see a headache in my future.

In your circuit.. do the switches ground? (Go low?)


Thanks for all your help.

No, the switch does not go low. The line is pulled low by the resistor.
Four or five buttons with symbols? Didn't Indiana Jones do something like that already?

 

Hello,

@Razzle308 , You might want to have a look at an other PDF reader like foxit reader:
https://www.foxitsoftware.com/products/pdf-reader/
Or just use the browsers chrome or firefox to read the PDF's.

Bertus

 

So the switches go high then??
Sorry just trying to know what i connect the switches to.

You were almost there. Not so much Indiana but Tomb Raider. Not that they're much different.

There will be a button in the pier to start the sytem for say...20sec. In this time one must identify the correct block and correct order. If they do..it will light the torches. The torches will stay lith for say 10mins. Each minute they will flame up.

@bertus
Thanks...i just download them and open them in a reader.(this is on my pad)

 

http://everycircuit.com/circuit/5318571465375744

 

Hello,

The schematic is very hard to read.
It is very small and the colors also make it very hard.

Bertus

 

http://everycircuit.com/circuit/5318571465375744

Please upload your file to the forum, otherwise when lost the external file connection, the thread will become useless.
Using the camera function in the simulation webpage and choose background with white color to save the file.

All the inputs after push switches need the pull low resistors as 47K.

 

Hi hp1729.

I am about to order the chips but I'm not sure what I'm connecting the switches to.
Also u made mention of resistors...what resistors?

Thanks.
Darren.

 

Hi hp1729.

I am about to order the chips but I'm not sure what I'm connecting the switches to.
Also u made mention of resistors...what resistors?

Thanks.
Darren.

The switches going into logic gates needs a resistor to pull the line in the opposite direction the switch does. They shouldn't be allowed to float to some mid voltage.

Your design uses the synchronous inputs as opposed to the asynchronous ones of my design. Will that work for you? I'm not sure what you are trying to accomplish there.

Also you need a resistor for each LED if more than one will be on at any given time. Not that your design won't work. If one LED is on it will be bright. As more than one come on they will get dimmer. What you have isn't illegal. Just not practical.

 

Would it be possible to draw the switches in as i have no idea what you mean. Sorry for my noobness.

 

By the way...that circuit above is just me trying to build your circuit in an emulator. It was to try to understand its working and to figure out where to connect the switches. But i cant make it work.

I wasn't suggesting an alternative. This is way over my head for that.

 

By the way...that circuit above is just me trying to build your circuit in an emulator. It was to try to understand its working and to figure out where to connect the switches. But i cant make it work.

I wasn't suggesting an alternative. This is way over my head for that.

Look at the drawing in post #26. The switch pulls the input high. If the switch is not pressed the input floats. To what voltage depends on the logic family you are using, but it won't be a good high or low. The resistor pulls the input to a good valid low when the switch is not pressed. If the switch goes to ground the resistor needs to go to +V.

 

@hp1729
I think we've gone indifferent directions

I am going to build your circuit from post #23. I am just not quite sure where to connect the switches (high or low) and do they need pull up resistors.
I have been trying to build it in an emulator but with no success.

Daz.