I still can't manage the camera flash settings correctly.

You are trying to use a naked flash to photograph a shiny surface; that never works very well.
You need to diffuse the light. Try using a sheet of white paper between the flash and the PCB, or better yet bounce the light from the flash off a white wall or ceiling.

The best lighting is outdoors on an overcast (cloudy) day. That light is very even with no shadows.

 

I've done that geo. Once I etched, drilled, and soldered all my components is when I figured it it out. So I made a new board, where I fixed every error but one. Then another, upon which I had created a new problem in an effort to fix the previous problem, and so forth. All said I think I went through 5 boards before I got it right. lesson learned "inspect 5 times, etch once."

I got around the problem just by making vias next to all top pads as you mentioned. In the end, I had probably 20 vias, and it would be pretty time consuming to solder all of them if making more than one board.

 

I've done that geo. Once I etched, drilled, and soldered all my components is when I figured it it out. So I made a new board, where I fixed every error but one. Then another, upon which I had created a new problem in an effort to fix the previous problem, and so forth. All said I think I went through 5 boards before I got it right. lesson learned "inspect 5 times, etch once."

I got around the problem just by making vias next to all top pads as you mentioned. In the end, I had probably 20 vias, and it would be pretty time consuming to solder all of them if making more than one board.

I find those specks of experience very interesting. They are parts of your personal adventure!

I had never read about this problem in any online etching process description.

 

As for the vias. Try to use component legs as vias as far as possible. But not on electrolyte caps placed in an upright position. As the pads on the top layer, will most often be hidden under the cap You can put the electrolyte caps in horizontal position if you have the space for it. Tantalum capacitors however are easy to solder on both sides.

 

I built v0.3 of that board and included a tRestrict layer on the Eagle software that inhibits routing in the top layer on the areas I lay it. I ended up with a board with +40 vias but at least it works and looks neat.

Here are the top and bottom views:
http://forum.eleclub.gr/download/file.php?id=170
http://forum.eleclub.gr/download/file.php?id=171

I used this (http://www.youritronics.com/double-layer-pcb-home-made-vias/) method, which is similar to what Bill proposed.

 

Here 's my finest baby:
https://dl.dropbox.com/u/8286935/Hill Cruiser board v0.5 003.JPG
https://dl.dropbox.com/u/8286935/Hill Cruiser board v0.5 004.JPG

I didn't have the heart to scale down the resolution of the picture, so I kept it in all of its 5MB glory.

14mil traces
12mil clearances
1mm drill pad holes
0.5mm drill via hoes

Your turn nerdyboy!

 

I find the photos make better inspection tools than the naked eye, more comfortable too.

 

Nice job!

Are there some scratches on the side "forward" is marked?

No SMD components?

 

The scratches are visual. The metal is a bit dented and the light reflects differently. They conduct properly.

I 'm not comfortable with SMDs yet. And honestly, apart from a resistor or two, there weren't many parts that could be used in SMD form. Most of the parts that will be soldered are pin headers for ready-made break-out boards that have small SMD sensors (IMUs, datalogger module). I don't think I could solder so small SMD at home yet.
Besides, through holes double as vias. I already have 80 or so of them to drill and solder (sigh).

I needed 11 marker corrections on various broken traces. It's not a large number, but this is my dimension limit. There goes my dream to compete with Intel at 25nm.

 

I saw the those "add-on" boards from the links a few posts ago. Looks nice, though.

Like T06 says, I use the snips from LEDs and resistors as vias. So far I've only soldered 0805, SO-8 and SO-14. 06 and 04 is too tiny.

Looking forward to see the end result, with a video.

 

Like T06 says, I use the snips from LEDs and resistors as vias. So far I've only soldered 0805, SO-8 and SO-14. 06 and 04 is too tiny.
Looking forward to see the end result, with a video.

What I meant was more in the direction of going from one layer to another using the component leg as via/connection. But of course using the trimmed part of components legs will also work good

 

@ nerdegutta

I just realized what t06afre pointed out. I think lining up so many component leads to solder them in the via holes is a pain.

I use two thin strands of stranded wire and braid them together with the aid of my drill. Then, I insert one end in a via and solder it.
Afterwards, I "sew" the strands through all the vias and secure the other end with solder once the strand runs out.
I proceed to solder the now stable wire on both ends of all the vias and finish by snipping the excess wire.

It has served me well in the large 1mm holes I drilled so far. We 'll see how I 'll do with the 0.5mm ones.

 

I don't think 0402 parts are too tricky, the last time I did it was when I was just starting with SMD and it was a mess, but that was with fat solder wire. With paste or fine solder and an iron it would be easy. I use 0603 most of the time and it doesn't seem any harder than 0805. A lot of the time it isn't going to make much difference to the board size. The main reason I use 0603 is that it's easy enough to run a trace in between the pads, I wouldn't fancy trying it with 0402.
I'm going to pick up some of these which look pretty handy, they are 1206 size, but it means four 0603 resistors much closer together than I would usually put them.

 

Harwin TrackPins for easy vias, come in a long strip, push in, snap off, move repeat, they are press fit and solder after etching.

i always used the "Machined" pin IC Sockets, the clearance is useful, and the socket itself is much more resistant of vibration issues, though getting an IC in is a tad more difficult depending on manufacturer and "press fit" or not. They give you a touch of room to solder the top side or even add SMD components on the top side.

 

i always used the "Machined" pin IC Sockets, the clearance is useful, and the socket itself is much more resistant of vibration issues, though getting an IC in is a tad more difficult depending on manufacturer and "press fit" or not. They give you a touch of room to solder the top side or even add SMD components on the top side.

Do you have a picture? I 'm not sure I 've seen anything of the like.

 

Do you have a picture? I 'm not sure I 've seen anything of the like.

Take a look at post #3

 

Oh, right. Thanks.

 

Here is the final board.

The first two pictures show the drilled board, to display the drill holes alignment.



The third is the completed board. As you can see, it is an Arduino MEGA 2560 shield.


It boasts:

• An XBee 60mW transceiver
• An openLog microSD datalogger
• A 6 DoF MEMS IMU (accelerometer+gyroscope)
• A MEMS magnetometer
• A PICAXE 08M2 failsafe handler
• A female pin header for a GPS module
• 4 male pin headers for PWM servo motor drive
• A 6-channel RC receiver
• A low-drop 3.3V regulator

I hope it will outlast its predecessor.


On a related question, I have included two switches (visible behind the heatsink) to cut the power selectively on the XBee and the datalogger. They operate on 3.3V.
On the current setup, I have inserted them in the ground path of both devices. Their Vcc is always connected.
I am a bit worried of the floating voltage state of these devices when disconnected. Their I/Os are still permanently connected.
Would it be a better option to put the switches in the Vcc path? Why?

 

If in doubt, leave either a solder bridge path, or a physical jumper, depending on how often the option may be changed between I/O and unused.

Benefit of jumper is that when switched to I/O, you have a header pin to connect to.

Benefit of solder bridge is that it is vibration proof and fairly permanent. Consists of two small rectangle pads w/o holes, with the edges very close to each other.

You'll want a ground path either way, so if signals are input to an IC that is "off" (generally not a good idea), they'll hopefully find an input protection diode and head to ground. A low input signal wouldn't effect anything, unless only Vdd was connected, then it may pull current if a path is found.