Here's another idea for a motor:
http://www.mpja.com/191VDC-82-RPM-Gearhead-Motor-Used/productinfo/18609 MD/
And a suitable power supply:
http://www.mpja.com/12-Volt-Plug-In-Power-Supply-1A-Hon-Kwang/productinfo/19466 PS/

The motor has a 30-tooth steel gear on the shaft. What I'd do is take a short chunk of 3/4" I.D. heater hose, and make 3 or 4 slits down the sides, so that one end can spring open to accept an ampule. The other end gets secured to the gear using a worm-screw type clamp. You may need to cut a couple of slits in the gear end of the hose, too - so that it can slip over the gear. You could use some rubber bands to increase the holding tension on the top end if required. Build a small stand for the motor out of some wood scraps.

 

Swing-out Ampule Spinner illustration. B- weighted base, 6" dia 3/16 steel; M- approx. 60 RPM gear motor; H- holder, tubing per The Sgt, or plastic tube lined with glass cloth; S- support, 1/4 " X 10" steel or Al rod; J -height adjusting collar.
Might add swing out stop & or foot switch motor control.

 

Could you post a picture of an empty ampule? What I envision is apparently different than some others, and I wonder if some of the proposed solutions could work.

I've started on some sketches, but would like to see an empty ampule before posting anything.

The ampules would be just like the ones in the video.

Like these http://www.amazon.com/Wheaton-176780-Borosilicate-Prescored-Ampule/dp/B003HKS8XG

 

Here's another idea for a motor:
http://www.mpja.com/191VDC-82-RPM-Gearhead-Motor-Used/productinfo/18609 MD/
And a suitable power supply:
http://www.mpja.com/12-Volt-Plug-In-Power-Supply-1A-Hon-Kwang/productinfo/19466 PS/

The motor has a 30-tooth steel gear on the shaft. What I'd do is take a short chunk of 3/4" I.D. heater hose, and make 3 or 4 slits down the sides, so that one end can spring open to accept an ampule. The other end gets secured to the gear using a worm-screw type clamp. You may need to cut a couple of slits in the gear end of the hose, too - so that it can slip over the gear. You could use some rubber bands to increase the holding tension on the top end if required. Build a small stand for the motor out of some wood scraps.

Great links and great Idea too. This sounds like it would be just like the one in the video or very similar. But really I don't even know how to connect the motor to the power supply.

If i didn't find this forum i wouldn't even know where to start as I really have little knowledge about these things. Thanks or all the help and ideas you guys are giving me.

 

I've done a lot of ampule sealing long ago and of the same general size.

To make life really easier on yourself when you have (or do you) seal it in a vacuum, neck a smaller tube to the larger tube. e.g. 1 cm attached to your 32 cm diameter tube.

Necking one side down isn't that hard. I used quartz with a hydrogen/oxygen flame (purity reasons). At one point, we sealed stuff in square cross-section tubes.

The compound synthesis was done using the large tubes. Later, I did crystal growth.

Two torches, basically. One was bench mounted and had both a wide an narrow flame. The other was hand held. The vacuum system was roughing + a diffusion pump and Perani and thermocouple vacuum gauges.

The final seal was done with the samples at basically eye level. The system was basically made of glass and 4 samples could be pumped at a time.

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For a turntable, you could use an AC synchronous motor at about the speed you need and vary it with a simply made variable speed drive. I designed one for a co-worker's telescope once. Frequency determines the speed. So, we used a 120 V synchronous motor and I used a transformer to change a +12 V to 120 V variable frequency.

 

I used a motor with a worm gear driving a gear connected to the bottom of the ampule holder. The holder is a tube, lined with foam to hold the ampule. The bottom of the tube, has an axle which is supported below.


The wiring is very simple.