airsoft - WIRELESS DETONATOR

Discussion in 'The Projects Forum' started by billy breach, Apr 24, 2012.

  1. billy breach

    Thread Starter Member

    Jul 31, 2011
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    Well,

    It's been a while since I was last on this site, but the last project you guys certainly helped out, which resulted me in getting my project done.

    I'm lookimg at doing one of these:

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1SCel4OEhAE

    using one of these:

    http://www.ebay.ca/itm/1CH-Momentar...Control_Parts_Accessories&hash=item439b4e25a7

    can some one help with a diagram on how to connect wires to the receiver at the points on the company diagram - and how to wire up a switch to turn it on and off.

    The wireless remote - I was just going to strip down and put an on/off switch between the battery and using a big push button normally open to replace the small red button?

    any ideas
     
  2. wayneh

    Expert

    Sep 9, 2010
    12,154
    3,061
    Pins are clearly labelled in the diagram you linked to. Can you be more specific about your question? NO = normally open, NC = normally closed

    Maybe more importantly, I'm wondering about the Terms of Service here for such a device, given its possible uses.
     
  3. billy breach

    Thread Starter Member

    Jul 31, 2011
    48
    1
    Just not sure about wiring what cables to what pins NO or NC also there is a common pin also what will that be used for?

    This device will be used for setting of airsoft pyro, ive been doing airsoft for around 3 years.
    (Www.airsofters.co.uk) youll find me there under the same user name.

    You can buy these devices from most airsoft shops

    for example here: http://www.zerooneairsoft.com/produ...=6312&osCsid=366d26ea54546fef05e9dd567e5852ab

    I would just like to make a few alteration to these standard devices such as cable to keep the pyro away from the device. If you also look at these kits then you see its the same remote control.
     
    Last edited: Apr 24, 2012
  4. billy breach

    Thread Starter Member

    Jul 31, 2011
    48
    1
    Heres a rough drawing that I've done:

    [​IMG]

    just not sure about where I would wire my two cables that will have the crock clips attached to,
     
  5. mcgyvr

    AAC Fanatic!

    Oct 15, 2009
    4,771
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    When you see C,NC,NO it means there is a relay in there (like a mechanical switch)
    Think of (C,NC,NO) relay contacts like a toggle switch. (but with 2 states you can choose from)
    C is one side (input) of the switch and you either use NO or NC as the other side (output)..

    Typically when the relay is off there is continuity (a connection) between C and NC.. Then when the relay energizes the continuity switches to C and NO.

    So they give you 2 options.. You can either have your item receive power when the receiver is activated or have power when the receiver is not activated.
     
  6. Bernard

    AAC Fanatic!

    Aug 7, 2008
    4,176
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    A series loop, ignitor- NO-Common- +V - -V - ignitor.
     
  7. billy breach

    Thread Starter Member

    Jul 31, 2011
    48
    1
    In order to get my "spark" to light the pyro its a combo of + and - wire connecting to a peice of this

    http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Resistance-h...448?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item27b5c166f8

    so how would this work

    just a wire going to the common (black cable)

    and a wire to the NO pin, so when i push the button on my transmitter it will send the power down that cable?
     
  8. billy breach

    Thread Starter Member

    Jul 31, 2011
    48
    1
    thats over my head... lol ;)
     
  9. billy breach

    Thread Starter Member

    Jul 31, 2011
    48
    1
    like so?

    [​IMG]
     
  10. billy breach

    Thread Starter Member

    Jul 31, 2011
    48
    1
    no that wouldn't work as theres no input there, so would I just wire a loop from the + in put to the COM pin and then another positive wire from NO to the crock clip that way when i push the button on my transmitter the NO should have current/power going down the cable.

    so I would just need to solder another cable to the negative pin to get a - wire to have a crock clip on
     
  11. billy breach

    Thread Starter Member

    Jul 31, 2011
    48
    1
    Last edited: Apr 24, 2012
  12. billy breach

    Thread Starter Member

    Jul 31, 2011
    48
    1
    anyone confirm if this is how i would wire it up then, taken a +V supply from the power source to the COMM pin and then a + wire from the NO pin to the crock clip and then a - wire from the - source pin and attach a crock clip?
     
  13. mcgyvr

    AAC Fanatic!

    Oct 15, 2009
    4,771
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    yes the diagram in your post #11 should work. That way the relay (C,NO terminals) are acting like a switch breaking the red wire when not triggered and connecting it when triggered.

    Last thing..Just make sure that receivers relay is rated to break the 12V and whatever current your device requires.. (Should be no problem but I don't know how much current your airsoft device requires)
     
  14. djsfantasi

    AAC Fanatic!

    Apr 11, 2010
    2,813
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    I am assuming that you want to be a good distance away :D - hence that is why you are using wireless control. The switch you linked to cannot be used for the toggle switch because then you would have to be physically beside the receiver for the circuit to work - defeating your wireless control I would think. Momentary contact switches would close when you press them and open when you aren't pressing them (there are types that do the opposite).

    Use a normal toggle switch to arm the circuit and then step away...:cool:

    Also, you indicate a power LED indicator, but in your block diagram do not show any current limiting resistor in the LED circuit. To use an LED as an indicator in this circuit - you would need such a resistor. Its value will depend on the actual LED used.:eek:
     
  15. Bernard

    AAC Fanatic!

    Aug 7, 2008
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    As mcgyvr pointed out , do not exceed relay contact rating of 3 A by putting a 4Ω resistor in firing line to limit max current to 3A, 1W should be OK. # 36 Ni-Cr wire is about 27Ω /ft, so # 32 would be about 2.5 X less or 10.8 Ω/ft. A 1/2 in length then is .45Ω. Is 3A enough?, It is plenty for # 36 or 2.5V bulbs.
     
  16. billy breach

    Thread Starter Member

    Jul 31, 2011
    48
    1
    Well, I was going to put a toggle on the receiver and then it would be planted with electric pyro, the reason there is wire with crock clips is that the pyro would blow up my receiver unit if it was attached direct. When im defending I can activate the planted receiver at distance setting iff the pyro.
    I have.no idea what current or ampage that I would need, I omly looking for enough to set off the wire to then ignite the pyro. So to limit the amapge I would just fit a resistor where? Just before the + v pin? Or before the crock clip?
     
  17. billy breach

    Thread Starter Member

    Jul 31, 2011
    48
    1
    so in order to get three amp rating then what size of resistor would I need? also would it be connected between the +v and the COMM pin?
     
  18. Bernard

    AAC Fanatic!

    Aug 7, 2008
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    The total circuit resistance of R, firing line, & pyro should be 4Ω or greater. For example: 25 ft # 16 twin lead is .2Ω, pyro ? .5Ω so 4-.7 = 3.3Ω. What size batteries? Receiver can also trigger an external switch, like a MOSFET & control as much current as needed. Connecting R between + & com looks good. [ In 1947 I set off 24 rockets simultaneously by replacing fuses with short U's of Ni-Cr in parallel using 6V car battery ].
    Note: the PB SW with LED; LED is rated for 12V & is external to SW, so it could be used as monitor for transmitter.
     
  19. billy breach

    Thread Starter Member

    Jul 31, 2011
    48
    1
    i'm not sure about the resistance needed for these electric pyro.

    here is the link to a wireless airsoft device that is running at 6v

    http://www.pyrogate.eu/electric-igniters/one-cue-wireless-radio-firing-system.html

    it has all the spec with resistor rateings. I would like my device to be a little more "heavy duty" and take bigger loads, so would be happier with a little more ampage running through my cables.

    Also if anyone knows the name of the type of connectors they have on that device red and black ones.

    All you do with this device is plug either end of wire from the electric pyro in and when pushing down on these connectors, it then bites into the wire, through the sleeve making contact with the copper and giving you a connection, no need for fitting any connectors to the end of the electric pyro etc.
     
  20. billy breach

    Thread Starter Member

    Jul 31, 2011
    48
    1
    battery wise i may just use 8 x AA batterys unless someon can suggest another 12v battery to use
     
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