Does the NC switch allow current to flow during the whole period the door is being closed? I think from memory 200mA

 

You can locate the UHF receiver a fair distance away from this control board. The control board should be in a box that is close to the existing switch box. You should connect the two boxes with conduit.

You will need to run 5 wires through the conduit to the original switch box:
BLU - goes to the white/close switch and motor.
RED - common to all three switches; also connects to BRN going back to the motor.
BLK - goes to the black/open switch and motor.
MRN - maroon; comes from the motor.
MRN2 - goes to the red/stop switch. This could be a maroon wire with short pieces of black or colored shrink tubing wrapped around it periodically to differentiate it from the plain maroon wire.

Still need the enable/disable switch, and whether it will mount on the board or separately.
Still need to decide on the terminal blocks for HV and LV
Still need to decide on the LEDs to show that 12v power is on, and the fuse is good - unless you really don't want those options. If you do want LEDs, then on-board ENA/DIS switch would make the most sense.
Need to decide on the box to enclose it in. The box should be about 4" square on the inside to give room for the board and the wires. You don't want it to be a squeeze fit.

Switch mounted on the board is ideal. The LEDs should be there as well. I have the box ready to use. next week I can call some board makers, I don't know what they will ask, drawing or whatever...
the rest of the items you listed I am guessing they would have it at their disposal. if not, I will have to get them.

will the blow image you provided and the wiring enough for them to quote on the job? and then do it?

 

Does the NC switch allow current to flow during the whole period the door is being closed? I think from memory 200mA

I just noticed I put a wrong caption on the STOP terminal - it needs to be NC, not NO. If STOP were connected to a NO terminal, you would have to press STOP and CLOSE or OPEN at the same time.

STOP is a NC circuit, so that if anything in that loop opens, the motor stops - and so does the door.

I need to double-check that, but I need more coffee first.

 

I need to double-check that, but I need more coffee first.

How would you like it?

 

How would you like it?

What are the dimensions of the box that you have? It needs to be at the minimum 102mm/4" by 76mm/3", and pretty deep; from the top of the terminals to the top of the switch barrel will be ~50mm/2", so you will need at least another inch on top of that. If you don't have enough clearance, you risk breaking the circuit board and/or the cover when you try to close it up.
The HV terminals are going to be nearly 30mm tall/1.2" tall, and the switch will be about 19mm/0.74" tall from it's base to the top of the switch barrel.

It would help if you would tell me the thickness of the cover plate.

You will need to drill holes in the cover plate for:
1) Standoff mounting screws, 4 (four) holes minimum, drill size TBD, countersunk
2) Switch, 1/4" hole for pilot, may need enlarging for non-threaded bushing.
3) LEDs; 5 (five) 3mm holes

I may wind up needing to make the board a bit larger.

I made the change for the NC vs NO for the Stop receiver connection; the rest of it is OK.

I've been selecting parts; most of it is here:

X1-X5: 5 (five) - PHOENIX CONTACT - 1725656 - TERMINAL BLOCK, PCB, 2.54MM, 2WAY, $2.01/ea
http://au.element14.com/phoenix-contact/1725656/terminal-block-pcb-2-54mm-2way/dp/3041359

X6: 1 (one) - CAMDEN - CTB77VP/2 - TERMINAL BLOCK, 57A, 10.16MM , 2WAY, $4.75/ea
http://au.element14.com/camden/ctb77vp-2/terminal-block-57a-10-16mm-2way/dp/1678447

X7: 1 (one) - CAMDEN - CTB77VP/3 - TERMINAL BLOCK, 57A, 10.16MM , 3WAY, $6.90/ea
http://au.element14.com/camden/ctb77vp-3/terminal-block-57a-10-16mm-3way/dp/1678448

fuse holder: 2 (two) LITTELFUSE - 01020071Z - FUSEHOLDER, PCB, $0.42/ea

fuses: LITTELFUSE - 0326.800MXP - FUSE, 6.3X32MM, ANTISURGE, 800MA, $0.729/ea, 10 min
http://au.element14.com/littelfuse/0326-800mxp/fuse-6-3x32mm-antisurge-800ma/dp/1596868

LEDs: red (1) - MULTICOMP - MCL034SRD - LED, 3MM, 70°, SUPER-RED, $0.072/ea, 10 minimum
http://au.element14.com/multicomp/mcl034srd/led-3mm-70-super-red/dp/1581111
(Vf=2.1v typ, 20mA max)

LEDs: green (2) - MULTICOMP - MCL514GD - LED, 3MM, 70°, GREEN, $0.07/ea, 10 minimum
http://au.element14.com/multicomp/mcl514gd/led-3mm-70-green/dp/1581130
(Vf=2.1v typ, If = 20mA max)

spdt board mount switch
Switch: 1 (one) - C & K COMPONENTS - 7101MD9V3BE - SWITCH, PCB, SPDT, $11.60
http://au.element14.com/c-k-components/7101md9v3be/switch-pcb-spdt/dp/9574743

-- -- TBD for exact part numbers -- --
Resistors for LEDs and SSRs
Resistors for LEDs: 1.2k Ohm, can be 1/8 Watt (5 min)
Standoffs/mounting hardware (standoffs should preferably be insulated)

 

OK, getting nearly finished with the board.

Here's where I am now... see the attached.

S1 thru S3 represent your existing UP/DOWN/STOP switches.
RR1 thru RR3 represent the relays in the UHF rolling code receiver.
Those switches won't be in the files that goes to the board maker.

The board is now 3.8" x 2.3". I had to make it larger due to the size of the terminal blocks, the SPDT switch, the holes for mounting, and the size of the fuse holder.

I had to create symbols, devices and footprints for all of the terminals, fuseholder, and the switch, which was kind of time consuming; I hadn't made libraries in a while, so I was rusty.

It's pretty close.

 

the box is "in mm"
Width 106
depth 58
length 190
thickness 3.5

 

Didn't have Internet access yesterday or this morning, but I did some more on your project offline.

Did some more thinking about it, and finally realized that you could get by using two fewer of the PR39MF51 TRIAC switches. The STOP button on the remotes will still work, but not the UP nor DOWN buttons.

A couple of things you need to understand about this interface circuit:

1) If the 12v DC power goes off OR the fuse in the circuit blows, you will NOT be able to operate the door from either the existing switches, nor the UHF remotes. The Fuse Blown/Open LED (red) is illuminated, or the Power Good LED is OFF, neither set of controls will work.

2) If the door must be operated and 12v power cannot be restored, then the Maroon wire and Maroon2 wire need to be connected together at the original switch box, and 12v power should be removed from the interface board. Otherwise, when 12v power is restored to the interface and the Maroon and Maroon2 wires are still jumpered together, the UP and DOWN switches will function, but STOP will NOT function.

Have a look at the revised schematic; I've changed how it looks quite a bit. I think you will like the new version better.

Here is the revised board:

The board will measure 96.5mm x 58.5mm.

The SPDT switch will measure ~ 0.74"/18.8mm from the board face to the base of the bat handle. You say the face plate is 3.5mm thick, so the spacers need to be 18.8mm-3.5mm = 15.3mm long. You could get them a bit longer and file them down, or a bit shorter and let the switch barrel stick out from the face plate a little.

The large terminal blocks determine the other part of the equation; they are 29.3mm from flush with the board to their tops. The board itself will be about 1.6mm thick. So, you will have about 29.3+1.6+15.3 = 46.2mm taken out of your depth of 58mm, leaving 11.8mm; that's less than 1/2". That is going to be a tight fit depth-wise, but if you are careful to not allow things to be bunched under the board when closing the face plate, you should be OK.

The element14 site is down (they are doing upgrades) so I won't be able to see what they have in the way of standoffs to use on the project.

 

Did some more thinking about it, and finally realized that you could get by using two fewer of the PR39MF51 TRIAC switches. The STOP button on the remotes will still work, but not the UP nor DOWN buttons.

Yesterday I tried the previous version "not the latest one" as a prototype and all is working as expected. the door opens closes stops and the switch adds the remote or eliminates it.

That is exactly how I want it to function. except the remote single is not strong. I have to come too close to the unit for it to catch the signal.

 

I am glad that you got it to work.

Does your statement mean that you are not interested in the latest version that uses fewer parts, and leaves the remote STOP button functional, but disconnects the UP/DOWN buttons?

Is the receiver either open to air (exposed) or enclosed in a plastic box?

I thought that unit was supposed to receive up to 40 meters away? That would be ~43 yards, or 131 feet. That would be direct line of sight though - if you are in a reinforced concrete or steel building, the distance would change considerably, and not in your favor.

You might be able to increase the range in a single direction by using a corner reflector. Do a Google search for "corner antenna reflector". You can make one as cheaply as a used cardboard box and a few square feet of aluminium foil from the grocery store. Try making one and placing it near your receiver.

 

I am glad that you got it to work.

Could not have done it with out you.

Does your statement mean that you are not interested in the latest version that uses fewer parts, and leaves the remote STOP button functional, but disconnects the UP/DOWN buttons?

Yes.

Is the receiver either open to air (exposed) or enclosed in a plastic box?

Open.

I thought that unit was supposed to receive up to 40 meters away? That would be ~43 yards, or 131 feet. That would be direct line of sight though - if you are in a reinforced concrete or steel building, the distance would change considerably, and not in your favor.

a wall or 2 between but not more than that.

You might be able to increase the range in a single direction by using a corner reflector.

I was right when I thought you will never run out of ideas.

 

OK then, reverting to design #3 - functionality remains exactly the same as what I posted in reply #86, but I've made some minor changes in the board layout (for one, the fuse has been moved to the bottom of the board) and the schematic has been organized so that it is much more clear how the existing up/down/stop switches connect, and how the UHF receiver connects.

Still TBD is:
1) The actual part numbers for the resistors
2) The actual board stand-offs
3) PCB manufacturer

I haven't tried Element14 again this afternoon to see if they are back up; it's probably too soon.

 

Element14's website is still down. Need to make certain that all of the parts are procureable before sending the board off, you know...

 

Ref to design in post #86 and #88:

Maybe this has been discussed earlier but I haven't found it in this thread. There's a trace running in a circle, surrounding an area on the board.

I am wondering why? Is it to "protect" or "shield" the components inside?

 

The area in the center of the board is @ 450VAC. I don't want any extra copper in there. The large terminals connect the power from the motor. The small terminals are at 12v DC. That is why there is such a difference in the size of the terminals. The small terminals would have pins too close together.

 

1) The actual part numbers for the resistors

I could not find 1/4 watt at element14
http://au.element14.com/jsp/search/...ensearch&Ntt=560+ohm&Ntx=mode+matchallpartial

2) The actual board stand-offs

no clue here.
http://au.element14.com/jsp/search/...h&Ntt=board+standoff&Ntx=mode+matchallpartial

3) PCB manufacturer

will call around.

 

The area in the center of the board is @ 450VAC. I don't want any extra copper in there. The large terminals connect the power from the motor. The small terminals are at 12v DC. That is why there is such a difference in the size of the terminals. The small terminals would have pins too close together.

Ah, I see.

 

OK, here we go with the resistors and standoffs:

Qty Value       Device       Parts                 
1   470 .5W     R-US_0309/12 R4                    
http://au.element14.com/vishay-bc-components/sfr16s0004700ja500/resistor-0-5w-5-470r/dp/9476059
VISHAY BC COMPONENTS - SFR16S0004700JA500 - RESISTOR, 0.5W 5% 470R

4   560 .5W     R-US_0309/12 R1, R2, R3, R5       
http://au.element14.com/welwyn/mfr4-560rfi/resistor-metal-film-560ohm-500mw/dp/1833360
Welwyn MFR4-560RFI Metal Film 560 Ohm 500mW 1%

6   M2.5x15mm   SPACERS
http://au.element14.com/ettinger/05-02-153/spacer-m2-5x15-ni/dp/1466780
ETTINGER - 05.02.153 - SPACER, M2.5X15-NI
$0.415/ea

Items you should know about already, and either have or will order this time.
Qty Value       Device       Parts                 
5               1725656-2    X1, X2, X3, X4, X5        
1   CTB77VP/2   CTB77VP/2    X6                    
1   CTB77VP/3   CTB77VP/3    X7                    
4   1.2K        R-US_0207/10 R7, R8, R9, R10       
1   CK7101      CK7101       S4                    
1   FUSE(800mA) FUSE         F1                    
2   GRN         LED3MM       LED3, LED5            
6   PR39MF51    PR39MF51N    U1, U2, U3, U4, U5, U6
2   RED         LED3MM       LED2, LED4

 

I am attaching a .ZIP file that contains the Gerber files and Excellon drill file necessary for the PCB house to make your board. There is a ReadMe file which explains what each named file represents. You will need to send this file to any PCB maker to get a quote.

It's two sided, with solder mask and legends both sides.
There are 115 pads, 0 vias, 0 SMD's, 6 holes, and 121 total drills to be made.
The board should be made according to IPC-6012B, Class 2.

If you wish, you can see exactly what the board maker will see by downloading/installing Gerbv, available for free here:
http://sourceforge.net/projects/gerbv/
Gerbv is an "open source" project; it's absolutely free. It is not as good as some commercial products, but it's hard to beat for free.

Install Gerbv, then un-zip the contents of the .zip file into a folder somewhere.
You should then be able to double-click the file named:
SJdoor3_.gvp
and Gerbv will launch and load all of the layers automagically.

You can check and un-check the layers over on the left to see what each one looks like by itself, or in combinations with other layers. The board house will use a similar tool to check the board before they make it.

 

thank you very much.