A quick question

Thread Starter

Bird Dawg

Joined Mar 2, 2009
4
Hello all, i have a question and would like some feedback. I am probably over complicating the problem but a second opinion would be nice. I have recently installed a sump pump in my basement and would like put in a running light for it. I have standard US house voltage of 120v 5 amps AC going to the pump. The pump is AC. The pumps power cord plugs into the float which shuts the power off when the float drops. I would like to put the running light as red high intensity led in the the floor above it. I was thinking just put a couple large resistors (will find rating to use later) and couple of diodes to rectify the power to dc. But i am worried of overheating the resistors running that much juice to them. Any help would be great. Thanks. :)

P.S. I will delate this thread when the question is answered to avoid clutter. And i aslo hope to be around the forums more often being an electonics enthusist, (high voltage specifically building my second tesla)
 

thingmaker3

Joined May 16, 2005
5,083
I was thinking just put a couple large resistors (will find rating to use later) and couple of diodes to rectify the power to dc.
Please don't do such a dangerous thing! Use a transformer to isolate the house current from your rectifier and LED. Several online parts suppliers have 6V transformers which would work for this applicatoin. You can also get them at Fry's or Norvac. You might even find one at Radio Schmuck. It will only add a couple dollars to your project cost, and will be much safer.

If you are okay with two LEDs, you can eliminate the rectifier.
 

Thread Starter

Bird Dawg

Joined Mar 2, 2009
4
Please don't do such a dangerous thing! Use a transformer to isolate the house current from your rectifier and LED. Several online parts suppliers have 6V transformers which would work for this applicatoin. You can also get them at Fry's or Norvac. You might even find one at Radio Schmuck. It will only add a couple dollars to your project cost, and will be much safer.

If you are okay with two LEDs, you can eliminate the rectifier.
Yes that is what i was worried about, turning my conduit box into a toaster. This transformer won't take power from the sump pump?
 

thingmaker3

Joined May 16, 2005
5,083
If the tranformer primary is in parallel with the sump pump, it will be no different from plugging your cell phone charger into the same outlet as your croc-pot. Everything on a given circuit draws power from the breaker box. Your power company has more where that came from, and the little transformer & LED will use only a tiny fraction of a Watt.
 

Thread Starter

Bird Dawg

Joined Mar 2, 2009
4
Thank you for your help, i was overcomplcating it. I put spliter btween the float switch and the pump, plugged the pump into one end and a old dc adapter into one got a resistor and a large led and wired them up, works like charm thanks.
 

Thread Starter

Bird Dawg

Joined Mar 2, 2009
4
Hmm.i seem to not be able to deleate this thread. Can someone tell where the delete option is or can a mod deleate this thread, my question has been answered.
 

bertus

Joined Apr 5, 2008
22,278
Hello,

There is no delete option for the members available.
A thread can only be closed or deleted by the super moderators and the administrator of the board.

Greetings,
Bertus
 

beenthere

Joined Apr 20, 2004
15,819
We don't particularly wish to delete this thread. The information can be a valuable guide to some other person with a similar problem. It's valuable as a reference.
 

BillB3857

Joined Feb 28, 2009
2,571
I did something similar with my sump pump. I had an old Archer counter module I wanted to use to keep track of how many times the pump cycled. The counter is powered by a single AA cell and uses a contact closure to count. I used the current transformer (CT) salvaged from a defunct GFI to power an opto isolator, and the transistor in the opto to toggle the counter input. To energize the CT, I got an appliance extension cord and a plastic utility box. I cut the HOT lead of the cord, threaded the cut lead through the CT, soldered and insulated the splice and mounted the whole mess (including the counter) in the utility box. I also mounted a reset button to clear the counter whenever I want. Works like a charm.
 
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