Thanks. I will try and correct these things. A few of them I new but just missed or forgot. Not sure what you are saying about Preset Switch because I am not using a Preset Switch. Will try and fix the schematic and post it again...Thanks again...

 

Not sure what you are saying about Preset Switch because I am not using a Preset Switch. The 2nd switch that I am including in my circuit is for Reset and not Preset. I just want it so that I can set the digits back to 00 at any time I want.

Pin 1 of the 4029 is referred to as a preset input. If means if you send it a high signal, the IC will look at pins 3, 4, 12, & 13 and "preset" or simply display the BCD value of those four pins. Some ICs have a genuine reset pin that will display zero when toggled such as CD4510, but the 4029 does not, it only has a preset. Your preset value is 0 since you have tied pins 3, 4, 12, & 13 to GND which is a BCD value of 0.

You can experiment with this and tie pin 4 of the 4029 to +6V instead of GND. Whenever you press your switch, the output will go to "1" instead of zero. This is handy if you're making a clock display, e.g., going from 59 to 00 instead of 60.

 

So I do not need pin 1 of IC2 and IC3 tied to the reset switch at all, but still need pin 1 tied to pin 4 of the 4093. Then I need to tie the reset switch to pin 6 of the 4093,correct? Then do I need to leave C2 and R2 on pin 6 of the 4093 also?

 

Wow thought I just about had this thing whipped but now I think it might whip me. I inadvertently unhooked pins 1, 4 and 5 from the 4093 and the circuit still counts the way that I want it to count. If I remove the reset switch from pin 1 of IC2 and IC 3 and connect it to pin 6 of the 4093 it will not reset the digits to 00. As long as I leave it hooked to the 1 pins it resets fine. And by the way I actually do have the 8 pins floating at this time also. I am at a loss now on what is going on...

 

So I do not need pin 1 of IC2 and IC3 tied to the reset switch at all, but still need pin 1 tied to pin 4 of the 4093.

Yes, this will allow you to debounce the reset switch.

Then I need to tie the reset switch to pin 6 of the 4093,correct?

Yes, pin 6 on one side of the switch and GND on the other.

Then do I need to leave C2 and R2 on pin 6 of the 4093 also?

Yes.

You can then eliminate R3 and R4 since the output of the 4093 will keep the inputs to the 4029 tied low when the switches are not pressed.

 

Wow thought I just about had this thing whipped but now I think it might whip me. I inadvertently unhooked pins 1, 4 and 5 from the 4093 and the circuit still counts the way that I want it to count

We'd need to see a new schematic of how you have it hooked up. Based on your last schematic, disconnecting pin 4 of the 4093 and pressing your clock switch (which is connected to the 4093) would do nothing.

If I remove the reset switch from pin 1 of IC2 and IC 3 and connect it to pin 6 of the 4093 it will not reset the digits to 00.

Are you connecting the other side of the switch to GND, not +6V?

And by the way I actually do have the 8 pins floating at this time also. I am at a loss now on what is going on...

This is a biggie. I suspect this is the root of most of the issues you're having. You have to connect the Vss of every IC to GND, otherwise there is no reference and your circuit will behave oddly if it works at all.

 

The reset switch should be placed between +6V and pin 6 of the 4093 (similar to the clock switch).

When I did this it would not reset. When I placed it between pin 6 and ground it works.

I am including what I have constructed as of now and seems to work fine. I went ahead and connected all of the other pins that I told you I had floating. This schematic is what I have now. Thanks...

 

The reset switch should be placed between +6V and pin 6 of the 4093 (similar to the clock switch).

Whoops, I think I got mixed up when I described that. Sorry.

Schematic looks better. The only items to look at is the dots - some are missing and some don't need to be there. Otherwise, good job!

 

Dots should never be placed on wire intersections that are not electrically connected. But the dots are needed only to indicate connection points that might not be easily inferred by a viewer. For example, when a wire simply turns a corner, there is no need for a dot, but when it runs into another wire (like a T), a dot is needed.

Not only are these dots important to the viewer, but if you ever wanted to have a PCB made, the dots must be in only the right places for the PCB to be correct.

 

Actually I placed the dots where they all needed to be but the program will not show all of them for some reason. I guess maybe that's why it's a free program. I am trying the Dip Trace program now and it seems to show everything the way I construct it but I am having trouble with figuring out how to export it from there to be able to post it. It seems to be a great program but a bit more complicated. Thanks...

 

I am trying the Dip Trace program now and it seems to show everything the way I construct it but I am having trouble with figuring out how to export it from there to be able to post it. It seems to be a great program but a bit more complicated. Thanks...

There are several ways possible, but maybe the easiest is as follows. While looking at the schematic, choose file, preview. Then select the print scale that allows the schematic to fill the white portion of the view. Then do a print screen, which puts the screen in memory. Open what ever graphics program you have, and paste the screen shot. Then crop the screen shot, size it, and save it preferably as a .png. Then, you can upload it to the forum.

 

Here it is. I have done this so many times now I hope it's all right. Thanks.

 

Here it is. I have done this so many times now I hope it's all right. Thanks.

I'll depend on elec_mech to check it, but I'll say it looks good. Is it from DipTrace?

 

Yes it is from Dip Trace. That seems to be a really good program once you play with it a bit. I still don't a lot about it and what all you can do with it.

 

I have been using it for several months, and I still learn something new almost every time I use it. It's quite capable.

 

It looks good - only one thing missing: I don't see your current-limiting resistors that go to the 7-segment pins. Otherwise, perfecto!

I might have to give Diptrace a shot myself sometime.

 

Ah man I knew I would forget something. I will fix it and re post in case someone else wants to use it. Don't want them blowing Led's...lol. Thanks a lot...

 

Ah man I knew I would forget something. I will fix it and re post in case someone else wants to use it. Don't want them blowing Led's...lol. Thanks a lot...

In that case, slide C5 up a little so it's not straddling that horizontal line.

 

Here it is.

 

One issue that I should have noticed earlier; you are using a symbol for a polarized cap, but all the caps are non-polarized.

Oh, good job on moving C5 and I am impressed that you also moved C4 to be in line with C5. That's the type of pedantic thing I would have done.

By the way, you can change all the caps at once in DipTrace. Right click on one of them, choose replace part, choose the non-polarized cap symbol, and when you are asked, choose change all or something like that. You don't even have to disconnect them first.