I have 2 SMPS powerbricks ,110V-240V to 24V DC @ 5 or 7A (too late to check ) for a 30" 1600p Korean IPS, they both always overheated a lot, and the monitor ended up dying, and I found a fried smd inductor just inside the powerboard of the monitor.

Not sure if it was the external PSU that did it or not (I'll post about that with pictures tomorrow, hoping to fix it).

Anyways I have an internal PSU from an inkjet printer that puts out 5, 30 and 35V, and its probably a lot 'cleaner' than the above powerbricks, I'll post pictures later.

I would like to get 24V from it and try that on the monitors powerboard and see how it acts vs how it acts still when powered from the powerbricks....just to see if its some rippple/noise issue upsetting the powerborad (I'll post those details in another thread)

So whats a good way to do it ? 30V to 24V, and have it be nice and low ripple still ? I have some know how and a chest of parts/components. I think I have a 7805 regulator, if that would get me to 25V

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/7-32V-to-0-...256?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_2&hash=item4631e69328

But I would be very surprised if an inkjet power supply is good for 5 or 7 amps.

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/7-32V-to-0-...256?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_2&hash=item4631e69328

But I would be very surprised if an inkjet power supply is good for 5 or 7 amps.

At this point the monitor doesn't work, but I took out its power+"brains" board, and can power it to check some voltages at least. It cycles on and off, and it also seems to over heat in places, iy has some 33uH inductors that get really hot, and some caps too, all on its internal power section. Not sure if thats the cause or symptom that blew it up in the 1st place. I have a cheap IR thermometer, I'll check with that, surely it all gets way too hot. And I have a cheap but accurate digital multlimeter on the way from China, it has a temperature probe on it.

So I just want to try another 24V source and see if it acts any different. I really really really miss playing games at 1600p

 

Often caps are the bad guys in power supply failures. If you have a hot one, it has a bulge or a leak, it is probably bad.

 

If you attached some different angles photos will be help.