If the motor stopped because it was ran undervoltage it should have tripped the O/L or fuse.
Max.

 

Okay, after fishing around with a mirror, flashlight, wiping clay off of the plate, and photographing using the mirror (reversing in Photoshop), this is what I have. The second schematic is not entirely visible, but maybe one of your can fill in the blanks?

As I mentioned, the motor runs for about 20-30 seconds before shutting off. It has a 110 plug on it. My guess is it could be wired incorrectly - possibly still wired for 220 volt or perhaps there is an issue with the motor. Any thoughts on next steps?

 

as you can see there is a diagram of the terminals for high and low voltage,check the motor wiring terminals to see if they are the same.

 

I agree, check the existing motor connections, I would imagine the capacitor is somewhere external to the motor and would have to be switched by the contactor for reversal, but it should not require touching if the motor connections are changed to conform to 240vac.
If the motor is connected for 120v and stop when 120v is applied, then you may have a problem somewhere.
Normally the O/L has to be changed also for 120v or 240v operation.
Max.

 

Okay, so I have finally been able to read the numbers on the wires. The schematic for high voltage indicates that 3-8-2 should be connected, and 4-5 should be connected, 1 is on its own.

I have a 3-2 connected to a red wire. All of the others seem to be connected to single wires: 1= black, 5 = blue, 4 = white.

Should the 3-8-2 be connected together at the junction box or could it be that they are connected inside of the controller? Thanks for your advice. This is all new to me.

 

If you don't need reverse, then you can hook up in the terminal box, otherwise you need to bring them out for reversal.
Max.

 

It may take a while to sort this out. The O/L seems like it's for the high voltage. Even thought he motor is switchable, I think it's likely that the device is not. The OL has a range of 11-14 Amps and it's set for 14A or Max. It should be set for 11.7 (208 V) -and 11.5 A (230V). 240 V would be slightly less.

I'm in general agreement with the OP, They may have operated it on 120 V or just put the wrong plug on it.

Not sure what man/auto mean, BUT it could mean whether the unit drops out on power failure. Also not sure what 0 to R is.

I also agree with MAX, it's an interlocked reversing contactor, so the motor has to basically stop first before reversing.

Advice: Try to get a wiring diagram from the manufacturer and initial set-up instructions for the contactor and/or ascertain the wiring diagram yourself from the datasheets. There are a lot of places where things can go wrong.

I had a couple of 500 W light bulbs that I could use for testing where I worked. Two 500 W, 120 V lamps in series would be a 240 V load. It would be enough to be able to check the voltage drop across the contacts. I've only dealt with one problematic system with reverse issues (a hoist).

 

Auto/Man on OL is used to specify type of reset.

 

Back after a long break. The motor is wired as 220v. Someone put a 110 plug on it. Before I put a 220v plug on the machine and turn it on, I would like to know if the controller is wired for 220v or 110v. I would prefer not to fry all of the electronics. Let me know what you understand from the photos. Here they are:

 

Someone put a lot of money into that pugger. The few I have seen were likely to electrocute any random person coming close to them. Wet/watery clay and frayed wires and electrical tape sort of things with rusty motors and switch plates. If you get that thing running, it will be a gem.

 

Not alot to go on there, I would see what the O/L are rated for and compare it to the motor plate if it has a current rating for each voltage.
It is a 10-14amp O/L.
It looks like it takes 24amps on 120, so the O.L are rated for 240v, and should trip right away on 120v.
Also Check the coil voltage of the contactors, if there is no control transformer then most likely the supply was whatever the coils are.
Max.