Help with 8 program led light controller

Thread Starter

kordobachi

Joined Jun 10, 2012
2
I need help with a couple of led xmas lights I bought which uses a 8 function mini controller. I opened it up and took a picture. I installed it just below the roof line and I attached a switch lower to the ground. I noticed that if left switch off for a long period of time the light revert to the original setting of combination (all sequences will be played in intervals) when I had set it to steady on. Since it is too high to reach the controller every time, is there a way to keep it steady on by uhmm I don't know maybe cutting a connection or jumping one? Any help would be great. Thanks.

The 8 Functions
1. Combination
2. In Waves
3. Steady On
4. Slow Glow
5. Chasing
6. Slow FAde
7. Twinkle
8. Steady On

I just want to bypass the controller altogether
 

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KJ6EAD

Joined Apr 30, 2011
1,581
There's an electrolytic capacitor on the main PCB right next to the COB hybrid PCB. Try putting a much larger value, 10X or so, in it's place (same or higher voltage rating).
 

BMorse

Joined Sep 26, 2009
2,675
The circuit apparently uses a type of volatile memory to keep the users selected setting, but it needs to stay powered in order to keep the setting, as soon as you disconnect it from power, it will loose its setting...... you can try the capacitor as suggested by KJ6EAD, but it may still not hold the memory if you have it unplugged all day.....
 

ErnieM

Joined Apr 24, 2011
8,377
I noticed that if left switch off for a long period of time the light revert to the original setting of combination...

I just want to bypass the controller altogether
How long is long? Hours? Days? Weeks? Years?

As mentioned, it's internal capacitor is discharging allowing it to "forget" the settings you programmed in the last time you climbed onto the roof. It may be possible to modify the unit.

What I would suggest is if you have a DC voltmeter measure the voltage across the capacitor (cylinder with 2 leads sticking out the bottom) after you turn this thing on then off (so it is safe): then knowing that voltage pick a battery just higher then that, add a series diode and it just may work.

(If need be I'll post a picture of what I mean there.)

But when the battery dies you'll still have to climb up again to change the battery and reprogram.
 

Thread Starter

kordobachi

Joined Jun 10, 2012
2
Thanks for the info guys. I checked out the capacitor and it is 4.7 mfd 25v. so should I change it to 47mfd 25v or 4.7nfd 25v?


@ ErnieM - Yup i think adding a battery would be great. Please do post the picture. Thanks.


As far as I know the led bulbs are 220v so I am thinking of just removing the controller altogether since I like them stuck on steady-on anyway just don't know which are the important components I need to extract from the controller and maybe solder it straight to the wiring.....


Any ideas would be appreciated.

Thanks Guys
 

ErnieM

Joined Apr 24, 2011
8,377
No LED in the world is 220V, at most a LED needs 3 or 4 volts to light. However, they may have enough LEDs in series to make it OK to just plow 220V into a string of lights.

Or not. And blowing up your nice lights is probably not desirable.

If you have a meter make the measurement I said: do it carefully as 220V can kill.

Maybe we can figure out where to put a wire to keep it always on... can you read anything off the two transistors (black 3 leaded parts) so we can get the part number? If they are transistors we may be able to guess an always on fix.
 

dosgringos

Joined Nov 10, 2015
7
Just looked at solution in the post above and not sure it would help me. I have a defective controller (same as OP) that blinks the leds even when set to Steady On. No smooth fading either, just a lot blinking and all leds going out for several seconds before blinking again. I have a video, but cannot upload it here.

Anyhow, all I want is steady on. I was wondering if a replacement led driver would do the trick, except that I don't know how many watts my 100 led string is using. Info is all over the place on eBay and AliExpress. If anyone knows or has a better idea, let me know.Thanks.
 

Brevor

Joined Apr 9, 2011
297
Just looked at solution in the post above and not sure it would help me. I have a defective controller (same as OP) that blinks the leds even when set to Steady On. No smooth fading either, just a lot blinking and all leds going out for several seconds before blinking again. I have a video, but cannot upload it here.
If your controller is shown in the solution link, doing the modification will fix your problem.
 

ian field

Joined Oct 27, 2012
6,536
Thanks for the info guys. I checked out the capacitor and it is 4.7 mfd 25v. so should I change it to 47mfd 25v or 4.7nfd 25v?


@ ErnieM - Yup i think adding a battery would be great. Please do post the picture. Thanks.


As far as I know the led bulbs are 220v so I am thinking of just removing the controller altogether since I like them stuck on steady-on anyway


Any ideas would be appreciated.

Thanks Guys
What part numbers on the 2 TO92 components?

The last one I pulled apart had strings of filament bulbs and 4x TO92 triacs on the board. If that's what they are - just take them out and link the MT1 and MT2 pads together for continuous on.
 
So I opened the box again to get a better look at the circuit. Kind of strange that it appears to have a TRIAC that was unsoldered (not that it was connected to any outgoing wire).

Looks like my PCB is a variation of examples 2 and 3 of the solution link. I have highlighted where I think I need to solder a tinned wire. Just would like someone to confirm I am on the right track.

pcb2.jpg pcb.jpg
 

ian field

Joined Oct 27, 2012
6,536
So I opened the box again to get a better look at the circuit. Kind of strange that it appears to have a TRIAC that was unsoldered (not that it was connected to any outgoing wire).

Looks like my PCB is a variation of examples 2 and 3 of the solution link. I have highlighted where I think I need to solder a tinned wire. Just would like someone to confirm I am on the right track.

View attachment 94499 View attachment 94498
Remove the triacs and link 2 of each 3 pads furthest away from the sub-board with the blob on it - that is no connection to the tracks for the sub board.

One track is common to all 3 (4) triacs, link that to the pads with wires that disappear into the hot melt glue.
 

dl324

Joined Mar 30, 2015
16,846
Welcome to AAC! The first thing you need to learn is to not hijack threads.
Can anyone help me to bypass my controller?
And state your requirements more clearly. What does do you mean by bypass?

The previous posters couldn't be bothered with posting schematics. But posting schematics makes it easier for others to provide assistance...
 
Hey all,

I'm curious if anyone was able to find a soldering solution the OP was asking about for their board as I have the same one (It looks like dosgringos has a slightly different controller).

I want to bypass the 8 functions and keep the lights on all the time.

I'll post pictures for reference:
IMG_0333.JPG IMG_0334.JPG

Thanks in advance.
 
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