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NiCads, connecting NiCads for tools.

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Thread Starter

bundick

Joined Dec 19, 2007
97
DSCF4834.jpg DSCF4835.jpg

Wife's "Wiffer stick Vac" battery ran down to less than 2 Minutes Running time.
Six NiCad's, 1.2V 1500 Mah. I'd put 2000 Mah's in there if I could. Whaddayathink?

How do I safely solder (or other) each battery to the next with my Replacement Cells?

I have a small wattage Soldering iron. Never heated a NiCad up like an Iron would. I wonder if it's smart? Or suddenly chaotic....with Krispy Kritters all over the shop?

Any experienced help out there?:)
 
Last edited:
strantor

strantor

Joined Oct 3, 2010
6,875
Those who do this routinely use a "battery tab welder" but I don't see it being cost effective for you to buy or build one for just this one project. I've soldered wires to regular AA batteries but they do get super hot. I assume it would be a bad idea to do it with a NiCad.
 
paulktreg

paulktreg

Joined Jun 2, 2008
851
I've soldered NiCads successfully in the past but you'll need a 50W+ soldering iron. I found the solder took fairly easily if you first roughed up/scratched the area to be soldered with a file or something similar.
 
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Thread Starter

bundick

Joined Dec 19, 2007
97
50 Watts eh?
This plastic cage will hold them in place for me. I may try soldering, if I don't come up with any other answer after awhile.
What I see is a new Stick Vac though. This one's six years old.
Batteries are going to be $35....don't know yet. Maybe Tuesday when everybody's back from the weekend more ideas will come up. :)
 
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Thread Starter

bundick

Joined Dec 19, 2007
97
crutschow said:
You can buy NiCads with solder tabs welded into place.
Click to expand...
That would work.:)
Got any idea how I'd search for that?:confused:

I'm about to contact the Mfg of those heavy duty NiCads to see what they have to say about guys in the field doing the soldering.
If I get anything we can use I'll come back to this thread.

I am so dull witted.
Years ago I worked on a little device that used a 12 V-1.3a battery.
It had a mini-charger built into the Power supply that kept the Battery charged. The Terminal ran on the battery.
I wish I'd paid more attention to the Circuitry. That would be handy info now.
 
PackratKing

PackratKing

Joined Jul 13, 2008
847
I routinely make up battery packs for power tools.......
I use my Weller 350 watt gun, "Oatey" brand or similar flux for copper pipe sweat soldering, and lead free plumbing solder.

The all-important issue is the shortest possible dwell time on any battery to solder on the strap or a wire. the iron itself must be hot for adequate speed in heat transfer.

Both wire / strap and battery surface must be shining. I make slices of solder, and put it in flux between wire and battery so the joint is made without fumbling 3 different items. Cool the joint asap with a damp washcloth or sponge, and then remove excess flux w/ denatured alcohol.
 
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Thread Starter

bundick

Joined Dec 19, 2007
97
Oh PackRat I'm glad to see that post.
I'd heat sink the Battery tab with Hemostats. I always used those on my 'real' job years ago.

I sent an email off to the Chinamen to see what they recommend for us. Wont get answered till tomorrow though.
 
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bountyhunter

Joined Sep 7, 2009
2,512
Using a high wattage iron to solder on tabs can damage the insides (like the vent). I use a tiny dot of acid flux on the battery surface and that makes the solder flow out instantly even with a 22W iron, then wash it off thoroughly. Acid flux is typically taboo for electronics, but in this case it's less harmful than cooking the battery with a high watt iron.
 
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