First PCB board which DIY method? Using Kinkos, Staples etc. ?

[spinnaker]

I am about to create my first PCB in a very long time. So I guess I am really a newbie at PCBs.

I have included the PCB layout below. It is not finished. I still need to add the control / multimeter PCB. When it is complete I will post the schematic and PCB layout for peer review when it is complete.

If someone want to make initial comments on my design then that is fine but the purpose of this post is to determine the best method of doing a DIY PCB.

I am posting the layout so a proper assessment can be made. Both boards will be single sided.

First I have no PCB supplies. I am starting fresh. I do not have access to a laserjet printer but would make use of a printing service like Kinkos, if that is what is recommended.

I am also willing to purchase transparencies for my inkjet, if that is the recommendation.

So considering I am a newbie at this and will more than likely be making my own PCBs in the future. What is the best method for me right now?

I know some methods use a sharpie. Maybe a little difficult considering my layout?

There is the transfer method .

There is a transparency exposure method.

I am sure there are more.


What method is best for me? Considering my experience and PCB layout?

[SgtWookie]

I've been using a laserjet printer and magazine-type paper with a 300°F clothes iron to transfer the toner to copper boards with decent results. I've been using the shiny supermarket ads out of the newspaper. The existing ink doesn't transfer; only the laser toner does.

You can get a laser printer for around $50. That'll save you money in trips to the copy place. You're bound to make a mess out of the first few boards. Don't let that get you down though.

It's hard to comment on your layout, since no components are shown.

[spinnaker]

Thanks. Did not really want a critique right now on the layout. Just wanted to show it so folks knew what I was working with.


Your point on just buying a laserjet is a good one. Plus I doubt Kinkos would print on a magazine. They will want to sell you expensive transparencies.

I guess the nice thing about transparencies is it makes lining up the image a bit easier.

The problem with a used LJ is that it will probably be a parallel port. My PC does not have one.

[SgtWookie]

I bought a used LaserJet 4050TN on an auction site for $50. It has an Ethernet interface built in. The thing sounds like a very quiet miniature jet engine when it's winding up to print. It's large, but it's very fast - it's really an office-type printer. I've probably printed 3,000 pages and I'm still on the original cartridge. You can't do that with an ink printer. Cost/page for a laserprinter is very low.

[jpanhalt]

I use the transparency method (photo method) myself with Injectorall (DigiKey) pre-sensitized boards. I have had poor luck with the toner transfer (TT) method. Nevertheless, I suggest that you might want to try that method first.

Rationale:
1) TT has lower start up expense. You can get the laser printing done at any commercial shop, school, library, etc. for almost nothing. You can use a home iron for heating. So, all you really need to get is a small piece of copper clad PCB, clean it, and try it.
2) For the photo method, I strongly recommend buying pre-sensitized boards. Making your own boards is a hurdle few can master, even if you can find the spray or dip solutions. You also need a UVA source. Developer can be made at home from NaOH or KOH, if you have an accurate balance/scale. If you do not, then you will have to buy it. You will also need two pieces (about 4X6") of single pane window glass and some weak clips. Excluding the cost of the pre-sensitized boards, you will probably have at least $30 in equipment and supplies.
3) Any method can fail, but based on many reports, initial success is probably more likely with the TT method. Every few years or so, after reading all of the rave reports, I try it again. I even bought a bunch of stuff from a commercial house and a laminator. I get usable boards, but I just don't like the appearance, particularly of large ground planes. So, I go back to the photo method. On the other hand, with the photo method, you are likely to have some complete failures initially until you get your conditions set. Those failures can be expensive considering the cost of the pre-sensitized boards.

John

[t06afre]

I can see a problem in your solder pads. They should be larger. Small solder pads in a homemade PCB do have a tendency to fall off after some rework. And this can be really annoying.

[Bill_Marsden]

I have bought laser printers for $10. They are out there if you look.

[bluebrakes]

Laser printers in the last 6 years should support USB too.

[spinnaker]

Originally Posted by Bill_Marsden

I have bought laser printers for $10. They are out there if you look.

One that works? Or did you have to fix it?


Where? Craigslist? Ebay?


I would be a little hesitant to buy from Ebay. For one, shipping would be expensive?

[spinnaker]

Originally Posted by jpanhalt

I use the transparency method (photo method) myself with Injectorall (DigiKey) pre-sensitized boards. I have had poor luck with the toner transfer (TT) method. Nevertheless, I suggest that you might want to try that method first.

Rationale:
1) TT has lower start up expense. You can get the laser printing done at any commercial shop, school, library, etc. for almost nothing. You can use a home iron for heating. So, all you really need to get is a small piece of copper clad PCB, clean it, and try it.
2) For the photo method, I strongly recommend buying pre-sensitized boards. Making your own boards is a hurdle few can master, even if you can find the spray or dip solutions. You also need a UVA source. Developer can be made at home from NaOH or KOH, if you have an accurate balance/scale. If you do not, then you will have to buy it. You will also need two pieces (about 4X6") of single pane window glass and some weak clips. Excluding the cost of the pre-sensitized boards, you will probably have at least $30 in equipment and supplies.
3) Any method can fail, but based on many reports, initial success is probably more likely with the TT method. Every few years or so, after reading all of the rave reports, I try it again. I even bought a bunch of stuff from a commercial house and a laminator. I get usable boards, but I just don't like the appearance, particularly of large ground planes. So, I go back to the photo method. On the other hand, with the photo method, you are likely to have some complete failures initially until you get your conditions set. Those failures can be expensive considering the cost of the pre-sensitized boards.

John

Thanks for the advice. Would a commercial outfit print to a magazine page? I have read that there are other types of paper that can be used?


I guess another problem with doing the transfer method with commercial printing that if you mess it up then it is back to the store again.

It cost $2 a page to print a transparency. Not sure what they would charge for a transfer paper, if one exists.